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23
colleges]. Moscow, Russian pedagogical society. 1995, 638 p. (in Russian).
13. Stolyarenko A.M. Psihologiya I pedagogika: uchebnoe posobie dlya vuzov [Psychology and pedagogics: teaching aid for higher educational establishments]. Moscow, YNITA-DANA. 2004, pp. 98-99. 15. (in Russian).
14. About the strategy of the national safety of the Russian Federation till 2020 RF Presidential
Submitted: 10.01.2018 Received: 13.01.2018
Edict on May, 12, 2009 No. 357. Rossijskaya gazeta [Russian newspaper]. 2012, May, 19. (in Russian).
15. Kuznetsov A., Mutaeva I., Kuznetsova Z., 2017. Diagnostics of Functional State and Reserve Capacity of young Athletes' Organism. In Proceedings of the 5th International Congress on Sport Sciences Research and Technology support. SCITEPRESS. P. 111-115 (Scopus).
Author's information:
Nikolay I. Kalakov — Doctor of Pedagogics, Professor «Military Academy of Strategic Rocket Forces Named After Peter the Great» Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation, 8, Karbyshev str., Balashikha, 143900, Russia
Sergey D. Neverkovich - Doctor of Pedagogics, Professor, the Member of the Russian Academy of Education Russian State University of Physical Education, Sport, Youth and Tourism (SCOLIPE), 4, Sireneviy boulevard, Moscow, 105122, Russia, E-mail: neverkovich@mail.ru
For citations: Kalakov N.I., Neverkovich S.D. Conception of civilized-integrated prognostic upbringing among youth in order to achieve the development peak of the Russian society universalization, The Russian Journal of Physical Education and Sport (Pedagogico-Phycological and Medico-Biological Problems of Physical Culture and Sports), 2018, Vol. 13, No. 1, pp. 60-70. DOI 10/14526/01 2018 286
DOI 10/14526/01_2018_287
SAFETY PROVISION AT ROCK CLIMBING LESSONS AT COMPLEXES OF ARTIFICIAL TRACKS FOR FIRST-YEAR STUDENTS
Luydmila V. Moiseeva - Doctor of Pedagogics, Professor
Ural State Pedagogical University, House 26, Kosmonavtov ave., Ekaterinburg, 620027, Russia E-mail: moiseeva.lv@uspu.me
Alexsandr E. Piratinskiy - Candidate of Pedagogical Sciences, Professor Ural Federal University Named After the First President of Russia B.N. Eltsin, House 19, Mira str., Ekaterinburg, 620002, Russia E-mail: apiratinskiy@yandex.ru
Evgeniay M. Deynega - Graduate Student Physical Culture, Sport and Youth Policy Institute "Ural Federal University", House 19, Mira str., Ekaterinburg, 620002, Russia E-mail: e-deynega@bk.ru
THE RUSSIAN JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND SPORT (Pedagogical-Psychological and Medico-Biological Problems of Physical Culture and Sports), Volume 13 No.1 2018
_ISSN 2588-008X ISSN 2588-0225
Elena M. Timofeeva — Graduate Student Physical Culture, Sport and Youth Policy Institute "Ural Federal University", House 19, Mira str., Ekaterinburg, 620002, Russia
E-mail: helena1317@bk.ru
Annotation. Rock climbing is a kind of sport connected with risk and it demands high level of responsibility and discipline. The degree of personal responsibility is determined by knowing, fulfilling the rules of safety technique and clear instruction. The received knowledge and gained skills should help students master necessary for rock climbing lessons competencies and form maximum safe environment. Material. The article is about the reasons of possible traumatism among University first-year students at rock climbing lessons and scientific recommendations, given concerning the methodology of rock climbing lessons organization, mentioning the rules of safety technique. Moreover, the system of safe environment of sports complex is given for students' trainings in rock climbing realization. The zone of rock-climbing wall is included into sports objects, which combine structures for different kinds of sport. In order to avoid traumatism, both among rock climbers and among other attenders of sports complexes, in the zone of lessons organization sportsmen should obey the instructions of a teacher and also other people, who are in charge of safety and order. Research methods: scientific-methodical and special literature analysis, pedagogical observation over the training process of rock climbers-first-year students; the reasons of sports traumatism analysis at rock climbing lessons. Results. Methodical recommendations, concerning safety of rock-climbing lessons provision among students of higher education establishments, are created and tested. These recommendations can be used for safety technique instructions creation in sports complexes of higher educational establishments. Conclusion. Methodical recommendations use, concerning the rules of safety technique observation, is a necessary need and the best way to preserve students', teachers' health and also will help to avoid traumatism and the risk for people around. Keywords: safe environment of sports complexes, responsibility for safety.
Introduction. Rock climbing is a kind of sport, which is not an extreme kind of sport, but still is connected with risk. It demands high level of responsibility and discipline. The population of alpinism in the world grows very quickly. This kind of sport is something more than just sport, it is passion, way of life, taking pleasure in altitude conquest. This is the process of own power and abilities constant checking. However, the degree of own responsibility is conditioned, first of all, by the rules of safety technique understanding and fulfillment and a clear instruction. The received knowledge and gained skills should help students master necessary for rock climbing lessons competencies and form maximum safe environment. [4] Safety is a necessary need of a person and the rules of safety technique observation is the best prophylaxis of traumatism, which provides a student's health preservation. [6]
Scientific substantiation. Studying the reasons of possible traumatism at rock climbing lessons among University students, with the help of long-term observations at rock-climbing lessons we came to the definite conclusions [3, 4].
The reasons of sports traumatism analysis at rock-climbing lessons helps to define the main ones:
1) defects and mistakes in methodology of lessons organization [1];
2) defects in lessons and competitions organization;
3) insufficient warming-up;
4) misbehavior of sportsmen.
In order to provide safety at lessons it is necessary to get rid of defects and mistakes in methodology of lessons organizations and also get rid of possible defects in lessons and competitions organization. Let's consider these safety demands.
Practical recommendations. Every student and teacher should realize own personal responsibility for own health and health of people around preservation. Thus, students can be permitted to attend rock climbing lessons only after going through safety technique instruction, studying attentively the instruction and after they sign in instruction protocol. Safety technique (ST) instruction and ST protocol should be combined into one general document, in order to make it clear, who conducted instruction, when and what for a student signed for [4, 5]. A student experiences considerable physical loads during the training that is why he must have medical certificate, which proves the absence of medical contraindications to rock climbing. It should be noted that for rock climbers, the members of national teams and pupils of sports schools for children and teenagers it is obligatory to have valid insurance policy of no less than 30 thousand rubles with the note about rock climbing.
In sports complexes, which train rock climbing, trainings are held at special training simulators for climbing - at a rock-climbing wall. The zone of rock-climbing wall is usually restricted, as many sports objects combine structures for different kinds of
While choosing rock shoes it is necessary to take into account convenience and size. They should cling to a leg, not leave "air cushions" inside. For beginners it is important when shoes are comfortable,
among rock climbers and among other attenders of sports complexes, in the zone of lessons organization sportsmen should obey the instructions of a teacher and also other people, who are in charge of safety and order. Sportsmen can be only in specially prepared for them zones. If sportsmen are in the zones, which are not created by the organizers for trainings, trainers are not responsible for their safety.
Students' equipment: sports clothes and footwear is the obligatory attribute for attending the lessons. In fact any comfortable sports clothes can fit a rock climber, but footwear should be special - rock shoes. Rock shoes will help a person not only feel comfortable, but also improve the climbing technique. [4]
Rock shoes are specific shoes, which are constructed in a way to correspond rock climbing and satisfy the demands of safety (picture 1). Rock shoes are inconvenient for walking on horizontal surface, as they are created for vertical surface. Shoes are made of caoutchouc (sole and straps) and leather (suede), very often natural. For convenience of sportsmen shoes are produced with different kinds of fasteners - laces, hook & loop; not often in a form of gym shoes
shoes, which are 1-3 size smaller, as for them effectiveness is more important than comfort.
Together with clothes and footwear, necessary attribute for rock climbing is safety binding (picture 2). [5,6]
sport. In order to avoid traumatism, both_(slippers)-without a fastener. [5]
Picture 1 - Rock shoes
It should be made by special organization, should be correctly put on and a safety belt should be fastened in accordance with the rules of operation. Binding shouldn't have seen defects, which decrease its strength (chafing of fabric, slight tear and etc.). In order to prevent sports traumatism it is necessary to have warming-up before the beginning of the main training in order to warm up all groups of muscles. During warming-up the definite sequence should be observed: first general warming-up is fulfilled, then goes special warming-up.
General warming-up starts from "warming-up", preparing joints and muscles. For this purpose general developing exercises are used (GDE): spinning, turns, bends, light stretching. Exercises start from a neck, upper extremities, then body and legs. After GDE 5-minute aerobic load is used, best of is climbing simple relief, in order to get ready for further training of functional systems of an organism (cardiovascular and respiratory).
Special warming-up includes training muscles, ligaments and joints, specific for a rock climber (first of all fingers) and prepares nervous system for training. That is why for special warming-up climbing and rock climbing movements and technique should be used. First go sloping training simulators and climbing straight walls with big hitches -"grips". Before climbing it is recommended to warm up fingers. For this purpose the following actions are used: circles in wrist joints, active fingers clenching- unclenching, rub palms together. After climbing sloping panels a person can start going through traverses, 2-3 warming-up bouldering paths or not difficult routs up.
Qualitative warming-up not only prevents traumatism, but also prepares a sportsman for further training, which will, undoubtedly, help to improve the results of climbing. It is necessary to remember about one more rule: during warming-up, in particular during traverse managing without belay, climbing warming-up bouldering paths without belay, people are fully responsible for their actions. Even mats don't prevent from traumatism while climbing without belay.
That is why it is necessary to avoid dangerous positions and movements, which can lead to trauma. If it is necessary sportsmen should organize each other gymnastics belay. During warming-up and during the whole lesson it is forbidden to be in the zone of possible fall of sportsmen.
Sports rock-climbing walls have technical equipment, which, in spite of durability, sometimes breaks or comes out of order. That is why before the lesson it is necessary to make sure that safety rope and the upper points of belay are functioning. In case of some problems in warming-up and main training simulators (spinning hitches, absence of safety mats, fastening attached panels, which don't prevent from falling and etc.) climbing should be stopped and a teacher or technical personnel of a rock-climbing wall should be told about the problem.
Rock climbing is impossible without a partner, as climbing up can be realized only together with a partner. Students' health and life depends on the actions and responsibility of a partner. When belay is realized, a sportsman's life and health depend on a partner. That is why a person, who is in charge of belay, is responsible for own actions and safety of other people. A partner-safety provider should also be attentive in order not to move down a sportsman on people, who are below.
The upper and lower belay can be realized only using special equipment- "grigri" (picture 3), "eight" (picture 4) and other, the upper belay can be realized through special lower points - safety hooks, rings and in case of personal skills of safety. [6].
In order to tie to a safety rope it is necessary to use "eight" knot (picture 5) or a safety hook with tread coupling (picture 6), which meets requirements of UIAA (10 mm Maillon Rapide), which are to be fixed on a knot of a safety rope, in order to avoid snatch influence on a latch. [7]
4 9
Picture 3 - safety device "Gri-gri" Picture 4 - safety device "Eight"
A person, who provides safety, is forbidden to pickle the rope through a releasing device with a high speed. In case of a quick release a person, who provides safety, can suffer burns and let the rope out of his hands, which will lead to a fall of a sportsman. This rule is used both for the lower and the upper belay. During speed training belay should be realized by two people and one more person should note the time. It is forbidden for one and the same person to provide safety and note the time. Safety providers are also forbidden to run away and step more than 1 meter back, if conditions were not created for this. During climbing a sportsman should monitor the position of a safety rope, in order not to let it wind round the parts of the body and cling to the salient elements of a relief, otherwise in case of a fall the rope can hurt a rock climber. While moving along the wall rock climbers shouldn't deviate from the line of the path in
order to avoid dangerous balance wheel. It is forbidden to climb with the lower belay overhanging paths (with general overhung more than 3 meters), as it leads to balance wheel. It is forbidden to touch hooks (climbing bolts) while climbing.
While climbing with the lower belay it is obligatory to "snapping" during the first guy-rope at the altitude no higher than 3 meters. Before "snapping" during the first guy-rope gymnastics belay should be realized. A rock climber, who is climbing with the lower belay, shouldn't let his equipment fall. While climbing bouldering paths and/ or the training simulator for bouldering without the upper belay special mats should be under the path, the gaps between which should be covered with thin mats. If it is necessary sportsmen should organize each other gymnastic belay.
During the paths preparation installer should do the following:
a) coordinate preparation of the path with the trainer-teacher or other person in charge;
b) take measures for protecting a dangerous zone under the path, where the used equipment can fall (hooks, guy-ropes, bolts, keys and others) and don't let the equipment fall;
c) take measures for own safety provision (organize the upper belay or self-belay through 2 safety points). [6]
Very often rock-climbers are forbidden to use dry magnesia, as it can fall to running tracks and other places, where train sportsmen of other specialties. It is forbidden to leave magnesia at safety mats, on the floor near the rock-climbing wall and on the running track. In this case liquid magnesia should be used. The administration of a rock-climbing wall has the right not to let a person attend a rock-climbing wall if safety technique rules are violated.
Conclusion. Rock climbing is an interesting and risky sport, which demands not only courage, physical power and dexterity, but also good fitness level, the skills of special equipment use and also the ability to estimate the definite situation. Following mentioned above not difficult safety technique rules will help to avoid traumatism and decrease the risk for people around. One of the leading specialists in Russia and in the World, concerning the questions of theory, practice and methodology of sports rock climbing, the author of more than 30 works, coordinator of Rock climbing World Cup in Ekaterinburg (1996) Aleksandr Piratinskiy thinks that the Olympic traditions should be renewed.
References
1. Baykovskiy Y. V., Kuznetsova E.V.
Skalolazanie. Primernaya programma [Rock climbing.
Submitted: 26.01.2018 Received: 29.01.2018
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10. Kuznetsova Z., Kuznetsov A., Mutaeva I., Khalikov G., Zakharova A., 2015. Athletes preparation based on a complex assessment of functional state. In Proceedings of the 3rd International Congress on Sport Sciences Research and Technology support. SCITEPRESS. P. 156-160 (Scopus).
11. Kuznetsov A., Mutaeva I., Kuznetsova Z., 2017. Diagnostics of Functional State and Reserve Capacity of young Athletes' Organism. In Proceedings of the 5th International Congress on Sport Sciences Research and Technology support. SCITEPRESS. P. 111-115 (Scopus).
Author's information:
Luydmila V. Moiseeva - Doctor of Pedagogics, Professor Ural State Pedagogical University, House 26, Kosmonavtov ave., Ekaterinburg, 620027, Russia, E-mail: moiseeva.lv@uspu.me
THE RUSSIAN JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL EDUCATION AND SPORT (Pedagogical-Psychological and Medico-Biological Problems of Physical Culture and Sports), Volume 13 No.1 2018
_ISSN 2588-008X ISSN 2588-0225
Alexsandr E. Piratinskiy - Candidate of Pedagogical Sciences, Professor Ural Federal University Named After the First President of Russia B.N. Eltsin, House 19, Mira str., Ekaterinburg, 620002, Russia, E-mail: apiratinskiy@yandex.ru
Evgeniay M. Deynega - Graduate Student Physical Culture, Sport and Youth Policy Institute "Ural Federal University", House 19, Mira str., Ekaterinburg, 620002, Russia, E-mail: e-deynega@bk.ru
Elena M. Timofeeva — Graduate Student Physical Culture, Sport and Youth Policy Institute "Ural Federal University", House 19, Mira str., Ekaterinburg, 620002, Russia, E-mail: helena1317@bk.ru
For citations: Moiseeva L.V., Piratinskiy A.E., Deynega E.M., Timofeeva E.M. Safety provision at rock climbing lessons at complexes of artificial tracks for first-year students, The Russian Journal of Physical Education and Sport (Pedagogico-Phycological and Medico-Biological Problems of Physical Culture and Sports), 2018, Vol. 13, No. 1, pp. 70-76. DOI 10/14526/01_2018_287
DOI 10/14526/01_2018_288
PHYSICAL READINESS OF 13-15 YEAR-OLD STUDENTS ON THE BASIS OF TESTS
OF THE IV STAGE OF RLD COMPLEX
Alexsey V. Fursov — Candidate of Pedagogical Sciences, Associate Professor Nikolay I. Sinyavskiy — Doctor of Pedagogical Sciences, Professor Nikolay N. Beznosko - Candidate of Pedagogical Sciences, Associate Professor Mariay Yu. Glukhova - Candidate of Pedagogical Sciences, Senior Lecturer Surgut State Pedagogical University, House 9, Artem str., Surgut, 628400, Russia
E-mail: physical science@surgpu.ru
Annotation. Nowadays one of the forms of checking the level of physical readiness and the level of base physical abilities and skills formation among schoolchildren is "Ready for Labor and Defense" (RLD) normative. Evaluation criteria of physical readiness among schoolchildren according to all control tests (trials) are held on the basis of APSC (All-Russian physical-sports complex) RLD norms fulfillment for badges of merit (gold, silver, bronze, without a badge), according to set state demands. Materials. This work presents the results of comparative analysis of physical readiness among 13-15 year-old schoolchildren on the basis of tests of RLD complex of the IV stage. Research methods: scientific literature analysis and summarizing, tests of RLD complex estimation among 13-15 year-old schoolchildren using created online-technology www.rosinwebc.ru, badges of merit estimation, comparative analysis, methods of mathematical statistics. Results. In order to solve the set objectives physical readiness of 13-15 year-old schoolchildren was studied on the basis of RLD complex tests of the IV stage. The received results about physical readiness of3395 pupils (1974 boys and 1421 girls) prove that the part of boys, who are able to fulfill the tests of RLD complex getting a gold badge, is 9,1%, silver badge - 25,0%, bronze badge - 6,7%; among girls: gold badge -5,8%, silver badge - 18,3%, bronze badge - 8,0%. Conclusion. Comparing the received results of physical readiness study among 13-15 year-old schoolchildren with state demands of RLD complex of the IV stage, we revealed that the most problem forming tests among boys are the tests, concerning speed-weight-lifting and speed abilities
