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UDC: 796 DOI: 10.14526/2070-4798-2022-17-4-94-99
Rock-climbing formation and development analysis in the Republic of Sakha
(Yakutia)
Aleksandr I. Spiridonov1, Mariya S. Ponamareva2*
1 National polytechnic general education secondary school № 2 Yakutsk, Russia ORCID: 0000-0003-4643-2370, sai_spiridonov@mail.ru 2M.K. Ammosov North-Eastern Federal University Yakutsk, Russia ORCID: 0000-0001-9132-6046, ponmarsem@mail.ru*
Abstract: Rock-climbing nowadays is the Olympic kind of sport. According to IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) estimates more than 30 million people in 150 countries of the world are involved into rock-climbing. Material. Rock-climbing formation and development analysis in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). Research methods. Information sources analysis and summarizing, methods of mathematical statistics. Results. We studied quantitative data in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). They are connected with rock-climbing formation and development. Rock-climbing this or that way developed in Yakutia since 2000-s. "Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)" was created. In Yakutsk rock-climbing wall was built and people got an opportunity to try rock-climbing. There is a positive dynamics of the amount of people increase, who are involved into rock-climbing in the Republic, though in 2020-2022 there was some decrease connected with epidemiological situation. After quarantine cancellation the amount of sections became the same. The factors, which can condition rock-climbing development in the Republic are the following: new sections opening at sports schools for children and teen-agers, rock-climbing wall building, sports result achievement. Team-work of "Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)" is realized. Conclusion. Further material base development for rock-climbing in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia), calendar of the competitions in the Republic improvement, new sections creation would help to increase the amount of coaches, specialists and referees in rock-climbing. It can increase the amount of people, who are involved into rock-climbing, and provide the results in professional sport.
Keywords: rock-climbing, rock-climbing wall, Rock- Climbing Federation of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia).
For citation: Aleksandr I. Spiridonov, Mariya S. Ponamareva*. Rock-climbing formation and development analysis in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). Russian Journal of Physical Education and Sport. 2022; 17(4): 81-85. DOI: 10.14526/2070-4798-2022-17-4-94-99.
Introduction
The first competitions in rock-climbing were organized in the USSR in 1947 by I.I. Antonovich [1]. These competitions were dedicated to speed climbing and were organized mostly by Soviet mountain climbers. In 1985 in the Italian Olympic town Bardonecchia, not far from Turin, Valle Stretta rocks, the first competition in "difficulty" discipline was organized and it started new era of modern sport climbing. Nowadays rock climbing is an Olympic kind of sport. According to IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) estimates more than 30 million people in 150 countries of the world are involved into rock-climbing. In spite of high world rock-climbing trend among young people and 70 years of history of this kind of sport in this country, the first steps in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)
rock-climbing makes only in 2015. Regional Rock-climbing Federation as created.
The aim: to analyze rock-climbing formation and development in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia).
Results and discussion
Rock-climbing this or that way developed in Yakutia since 2000. The catalyzers of this kind of sport development were the following: "Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)" public organization creation and rock-climbing wall building in the center of Yakutsk. During the period since 2015 till 2019 2 more rock-climbing walls were built in Yakutsk and two more walls in the regions of the Republic (in Neryungri and Ust'-Nera). Table 1 shows that the amount of children, who are involved into rock-climbing in
2019, is relatively high. The increase of the amount of children, who attend rock-climbing walls, is conditioned by the work of Further Education sections. Moreover, regional federation realizes different competitions organization.
Data in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) in 2019-2022
Table 1
2019 2UZU 2031 24)22
I. rfrsotintl
number at'coached, total 4 и А 9
number of ¿(Metier, wbo work at general education secondary school 4 (Г 7 7
number of coaches. who wert at IiluJij: education establishments Q (Г (1 L
number of coaches. who wort on j merchant basis 0 и и 0
number of coaches. who wert at ¿ports schools tin children and. iccd-agpl, Olympic reserve colleges, indoor tricks (in the system of (lie Vlimstry for Sport 1 0 0 1 L
number of the 2nd.3nJ category referees 28 14 7 15
number of the 1J cstcfpxy referees 0 0 (1 С
number of All-Etussun category referees 0 и и 0
J. Material an J technical base
number of rock-cl 1 mbing uaLLs. total 4 4 7 9
number of nock-el 1 mbinj" walls, sei at general educe!Jon secondary schools 3 4 ft 7
number of rock-el 1 mbinjj walls, sei tn higher education establishments 0 и и L
number of commercjal noek-cli mbinj" walls Q Q (1 С
number of rock-el 1 mbini" walls, id at sports schools for children and teen-agers. Olympic reserve colleges, indoor tracks (in the svstcm of the MiuiMry for Sport) 1 Q 1 L
number of лоск-el imbinj" walls, sd tn other places Q Q (1 С
I'LlliLILl'i П £ {thfflUH. Iffalp)
Financing from municipal budget during lhc year, total ш 0 15 15
Financing from municipal budget during the year for cut competitions u и 0 0
Financing from regional (republican! budget during the year, total 20 и и 0
Financing trom regional (republican] budget duniu> the year, for exLt competitions Q О (1 15
Other sources 140 (Г (1 50
J.AlhletcK
Number of children, who have junior categories 32 15 1(1 10
Number of athletes-, who have mass 2™\ 3|J categories 16 Ä 5 5
Number of athletes. who have the I" category 1 0 0
Number of athlete*, who are Candidate Masters of Sports d 0 u 0
Number of athletes, who are imsieis of sports. Merited Mailers of SporU CI u u 0
Number of municipal competitions, during year 3 2 » 4
Number of regional (republican competitions). during (lie year 1 o » L
Number of Al 1-KuiSLaji competitions, [hiring the year 0 d 0 G
6. mass character
Number of sections, total 4 A 4
Average number of people, who are involved into rodc-ehmbing lli the region (republic}, total 200 140 L№ 20Û
average number of people, who are mviolved 111i0 roeJc-ehmbing. under LK 90 9U 5(f ISO
average number of people, who are mviolved inlo rocJc-eljmbmg. over 1& HQ 5Cf 5(f 84)
The amount of children decrease (table 1) since March, 2020 till March, 2022 is conditioned by quarantine during the pandemic. Training lessons in gyms were not realized, as all rock-climbing walls are set at general education institutions. During the mentioned period it was possible to train for children, who live in boarding schools; online - at
home or during the period of acute phase decrease - individually, which didn't provide this kind of sport popularity increase. During the period of the pandemic 5 more average in size rock-climbing walls were built (table 2). The amount of sections renewal became possible only after quarantine end.
Table 2
Data concerning rock-climbing walls creation in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) during the years of the
pandemic 2020-2021
Building site Locality Square Time of building Budget
SANTEE (state autonomous non-typical educational establishment) IAS RS (Y) "International Arctic School" Yakutsk 64 sq m (height 7 m) September, 2020 Republican
Sports club of Sports school for children and teenagers named after A.A. Ageev Berdigestyakh Village 36 sq m (height 6 m) March, 2021 Federal
M.K. Ammosov North-Eastern Federal University Yakutsk 50 sq m (height 9 m) May, 2021 Federal
Tyungyulyu secondary school Tyungyulyu Village 20 sq m (height 4 m) September, 2021 Local
Municipal Yakutsk 90 sq m (height September, Local
general education 7 m) 2021
budgetary
establishment
Markhinskaya
secondary school
№2
In most rock-climbing walls, set in the system of education in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia), work coaches with pedagogical education, who are physical culture teachers or further education teachers. As a rule, the employer claims the demands on the staff, selecting people connected with rock-climbing, mountaineering or who have access to high altitude work. In 2022 3 instructors were taught at the courses of Mountaineering Federation of Russia.
In order to train the coaching staff the organization of master classes continues. During the pandemic natural relief climbing outdoors became very popular. During Mountaineering festival "Cold Pole" ["Polyus kholoda"] in Oimyakon ulus since June, 12 till July, 1 250, 200 and 80 m multi pitches were realized. In terms of financial aid of Mountaineering Federation of Russia five more new routes were made on rock training ground in Elanka village. In August 2022 the VI Festival of extreme kinds of sport and tourism "ElankaFest" was held. According to the information by Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia), there are some problems in educational-training process because of the absence of financing, connected with coaches qualification improvement, the absence of constant gyms for trainings, the absence of high rock-climbing wall, with the fact that in all gyms physical culture lessons are held.
The limited character of the altitude and areas of rock-climbing walls (maximal altitude - 7.5m, area - till 80 sq m) in Yakutsk and the republic and their wooden constructions don't give an opportunity to train according to "difficulty" discipline and classical speed, there is no etalon route. Rock-climbing walls building in multifunctional sports complex in the republic by means of the federal budget is organized without specialists of regional federation.
Competitions financing from the budgets of all levels was realized only for honorary sets no more than once a year.
Competitions of athletes and mass categories assigning during the pandemic was stopped. Systematic Far Eastern Federal District exits since 2020 were stopped. There are no systematic exists of young people and children.
As the main rock-climbing walls are situated at secondary educational establishments rock-
climbing competitions in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) are held during the holidays. Nowadays there is an opportunity to fulfill sports norms (assigning junior and mass categories).
Rock-climbing popularization in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) is influenced by population information awareness:
- advertising on social sites 2GIS, Instagram;
- Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) site maintenance alpsakha.ru;
- information placement concerning sports events on news agencies banners;
- making and showing films about rock-climbing;
- competitions broadcasting by local TV-NVK Sakha, Yakutia24.
Conclusion
We studied quantitative data in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). They are connected with rock-climbing formation and development. The factors, which can condition rock-climbing development in the Republic are the following: new sections opening at sports schools for children and teenagers, high rock-climbing wall building, sports result achievement. Team-work of "Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)" is realized. Further material base development for rock-climbing in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia), calendar of the competitions in the Republic improvement, new sections creation would help to increase the amount of coaches, specialists and referees in rock-climbing. They can increase the amount of people, who are involved into rock-climbing, and provide the results in professional sport.
References
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Submitted:24.10.2022 Author's information:
Aleksandr I. Spiridonov - Lecturer, National polytechnic general education secondary school № 2, 677000, Russia, Yakutsk, Yaroslavskogo str., House 8/1, e-mail: sai spiridonov@mail.ru Mariya S. Ponomareva - Candidate of Pedagogics, Associate Professor, M.K. Ammosov NorthEastern Federal University, 677007, Russia, Yakutsk, Kulakovskogо str., House 42, e-mail: ponmarsem@ mail.ru
