CC BY
41
DOI 10.14526/01_2017_176
TEMPO OF ROUTE OVERCOMING IN SPORT CLIMBING
Yury V. Kotchenko - candidate of technical sciences, associate professor
Sevastopol State University 33, Str. University, Sevastopol, 299053, Russia
E-mail: skala7b@rambler.ru
Annotation. The article gives the results of one of the most important factors study, which influences the effectiveness of competition - tempo of competitive route overcoming. Materials. The regularities of tempo characteristics are considered during the performances of women at International competitions in climbing. The aim of the research is the search for the ways of competitive effectiveness increase. The results are based on the results of 1600 starts analysis among female athletes at 38 stages of the World Cup and 3 World championships. Research methods: literature analysis, description, modeling, methods of mathematical-statistical analysis. Results. It was revealed that most female athletes manage to keep high tempo indices within 6-8 seconds for one effective movement only during the first 2-3 minutes of the performance. Evident tempo activity decrease is seen, approximately, during the 5th minute of a clear time of climbing and during the route overcoming with the tempo more than 10 seconds it is almost impossible to achieve good results. During the analysis separate cases were determined, when female athletes of high qualification kept very high tempo of moving (approximately 6 seconds) during a long-term period (till 400 seconds). Comparative analysis of qualification and semifinal-final stages showed, that at more difficult routs there is the increase of tempo indices to 9,1%. Quickness of making decisions and the speed of the separate motional actions fulfillment decrease happens in terms of high physical expenditures and a high level of focusing. In such kind of conditions only leaders can keep a high tempo of climbing, especially at long distances, when maximum final results are more than 40 points. The research works helped to reveal, that a female athlete's tempo of movement at a competitive route is in converse nonlinear connection with the final result, the degree of connection R = 0,26. On the basis of the received regularities a regressive model of tempo interconnection with the result of the performance is created. The model helps to make approximate calculation of a female athlete's time movement schedule along the route. Most of effective indices are situated in the part of low (according to the module) value of tempo: from 6 to 9 seconds and such kind of regularity is prospective enough from the point of view of its practical realization in competitive process. Conclusion. Contribution of tempo into the final result, in case of correct tactics of movement, can be 7,3%. Regressive analysis showed, that tempo characteristic of movement, which is close to the upper bound of the set values of the contribution into the result and partial correlation, can have a considerable positive influence on general result of sports performance. Keywords: sport climbing, International competitions, tempo of climbing, effectiveness.
Urgency. The success of Russian sportsmen in sport climbing at the International arena is accumulated in two disciplines: speed climbing and bouldering. In difficulty climbing there is a considerable lagging behind the countries-leaders [3]. Sport climbing inclusion into the program of the Olympic Games 2020 provides interest and attention increase concerning the
questions of highly-qualified sportsmen training for great International starts. There appears the necessity to activate the research works, which provide competitive effectiveness increase.
Literature analysis shows that there are a lot of works concerning climbing. The most part of research works are connected with the sphere of physical and special training. Less
are works, connected with the questions of the training process organization [2,5], which cross some separate aspects of qualified sportsmen training in other kinds of sport [6, 7, 8]. Also there are several interesting works, connected with the urgent questions of psychological training [1, 10] and new methodologies of sports level testing [4, 9].
The aim of the research - the search for the ways of competitive effectiveness increase in sport climbing.
Objectives. 1. To determine tempo characteristics of movement. 2. To determine the volume of the contribution and regularity of rout overcoming tempo with the result of the performance.
In order to solve the set objectives competitive process was studied in difficulty climbing among women.
Research methods and research organization. Since 2012 till 2016 1650 individual starts among women at 38 stages of the World Cup and three World Championships were analyzed. Analysis methods: dispersing, correlative, nonlinear regression. During data handling the following programs were used: Kinovea 0.8.24, Excel-2010, Statistika 10.
Results and their discussion. The factors, which influence the results of the performance (Y) directly during competitive route overcoming, were studied. The article gives the results of one of the most important
factors study- tempo of overcoming (T). In this case tempo is understood as an actual time, which is necessary for one effective movement fulfillment by a female athlete. According to physical essence tempo of climbing is a quantity, which is opposite to speed and is more convenient for difficult climbing quantity, than speed of climbing Less according to the module values of time mean the notion "higher tempo".
Tempo indices can differ according to absolute values: from 2-3 till 15-20 and more seconds depending on the difficulty of the fulfilled movement Preliminary analysis of the climbing tempo is fulfilled on the basis of the gathered observations according to the results of performances of female athletes at qualification routs of 8 stages of the World Cup 2012 (n=483). For this stage of competitions correlation analysis showed a low connection degree between the factor and the resulting index (Y): R = 0,17. It was determined that the tempo of climbing is characterized by a converse kind of connection with Y, it means that female athletes, who are able to overcome the route in a higher tempo, can achieve better indices in comparison with the female athletes, who move with a lower tempo.
The division of female athletes according to the level of sports qualification helped to suppose a higher connection of features in the group of highly-qualified athletes. At the next stage of the research the indices of the female athletes at semifinal and final routs of the International competitions were gathered and studied (n = 1156). The results of the analysis are presented in the table.
Table - Characteristics of (T)-factor
Characteristics qu alif. n = 483 se mifinal fin al n = 1156
Index of correlation 0, 17 0,2 6
Significance level « 0,001 «0 ,001
Expected value 7, 0 7,7
Min in 4,3 4,8
Max 13 12,
ax 4
Standart deviation 1,2 1,2
Standart error st 0,0 6 0,0 4
The main difference in characteristics of the climbing tempo at the qualification and semifinal-final stages is in T value increase according to the module. In percentage term the increase is considerable enough, 9,1%. The observed change of one of the main tempo parameters is connected with the category of the route difference increase. Such kind of situation is explained by the fact, that more difficult route demands high physical efforts and maximum concentration. Quickness of making decisions and the speed of the separate motional actions fulfillment decrease. Not all female athletes are able to keep a high tempo of climbing, especially at a long distance, when maximum values of Y > 40 points.
Nevertheless, taking into consideration the results of the analysis, we can come to the conclusion that rout overcoming with not high indices of climbing tempo in some cases may not have negative impact on the results of the performance.
The degree of the factor connection with the resulting feature at more difficult routs is higher: R = 0,26. Most observations are within the following range: from 6" till 8,5", the bounds of the confidence interval: I (95%) = 7,44-7,61. Approximation of these polynomials showed reverse direction of connection between (T)-factor and the resulting feature, except the routs, for which maximum index is Y > 40.
Evident decrease of tempo activity starts approximately during the 5th minute of a clear time of climbing. Till this moment, during the first 2-3 minutes of the performance, most female athletes manage to keep high tempo indices within 6"-8" for one resulting movement. The values of climbing tempo decrease starts when T ~ 8"- 9", and maximum indices Y are achieved within the interval: T = 6"-9". Regularities of paired association reaction are presented with the help of the picture.
Picture - The peculiarities of interaction There is Xmin zone in the picture, which corresponds with high values of Y and the tempo. It is seen that there are almost no observations in such kind of junction. It proves the fact that the competitive route overcoming with a low tempo makes good result achievement almost impossible. Most
between tempo and the result of the performance of effective observations are situated in the part of low (according to the module) values of "T" and such kind of regularity is prospective enough from the point of view of its practical realization in competitive process.
Regressive analysis showed, that depending on the number of the considered in competitive process
components, the resulting part of tempo is within the interval A = (0,03, 0,09), with the error value m = 0,74. The indices of partial correlation are within the limits of r = (0,19, 0,30), the significance level p=9,6E-11. It means that the contribution of tempo into the final result in case of the correct organization of time schedule of movement along the route can be 7,3%. Hence, tempo characteristic of movement, according to its indices being near the upper bound of the set Pt and rT intervals, can have a considerable positive influence on the result of the performance.
Tempo value of movement calculation depending on the planned Y value is described by the following equation: t = 0,759Y - 0,022Y 2 + 2E-04Y 3 + e., where Y
- the result of the performance in points; Si -the influence of the unaccounted factors.
During the analysis separate cases were determined, when female athletes of high qualification kept very high tempo of moving (5,5"-6,5") during a long-term period (till 400 seconds), however, such kind of indices were only among highly-qualified athletes.
Conclusion. a female athlete's tempo of movement at a competitive route is in converse nonlinear connection with the final result. The degree of connection R = 0,26. A high result of the performance is achieved in case of low (according to the module) tempo indices, in the interval 6"-9". The contribution of the factor into the result can achieve the following volume: 7,3%.
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Submitted: 30.01.2017 Received: 01.02.2017
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Yury V. Kotchenko - candidate of technical sciences, associate professor Sevastopol State University, 33, Str. University, Sevastopol, 299053, Russia, E-mail: skala7b@rambler.ru
For citations: Kotchenko Y.V. Tempo of route overcoming in sport climbing, The Russian journal of physical education and sport (pedagogical-psychological and medico-biological problems of physical culture and sports), 2017, Vol. 12, No. 1, pp. 6-9. DOI 10.14526/01_2017_176
