Научная статья на тему 'INNOVATIVE TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES OF SPECIAL PHYSICAL PREPARATION. TESTING SPECIAL PHYSICAL AND PSYCHOLOGICAL READINESS OF CLIMBING SPORTSMEN'

INNOVATIVE TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES OF SPECIAL PHYSICAL PREPARATION. TESTING SPECIAL PHYSICAL AND PSYCHOLOGICAL READINESS OF CLIMBING SPORTSMEN Текст научной статьи по специальности «Строительство и архитектура»

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Ключевые слова
PHYSICAL CULTURE / TECHNICAL SPORT DEVICES

Аннотация научной статьи по строительству и архитектуре, автор научной работы — Antonov A.I., Vorobyov V.A., Duryagin D.A., Dolgopolsky V.O., Rasulov M.A.

The authors offer innovatory technical devices of their own for practical training of mountaineers and climbers

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Текст научной работы на тему «INNOVATIVE TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES OF SPECIAL PHYSICAL PREPARATION. TESTING SPECIAL PHYSICAL AND PSYCHOLOGICAL READINESS OF CLIMBING SPORTSMEN»

Рис. 2 График зависимости a=f(I) a = 1.0705 • I 0499

Вывод. Наработанные десятилетиями методики инженерных расчетов в области теории фильтрации известны и применяются специалистами. Сегодня, с повышением требований к качеству, скорости разработки и достоверности желаемого результата, широкое распространение получает компьютерное моделирование, позволяющие оптимизировать процессы применения таких методик.

Основным методом прогноза подтопления застроенных и застраиваемых территорий следует считать аналитический, хотя для получения более дифференциальных по площади данных по прогнозу уровней может оказаться необходимым применение метода моделирования [1].

Литература

1. Прогнозы подтопления и расчёт дренажных систем на застраиваемых и застроенных территориях: Справочное пособие к СНиП / А.Ж. Муфтахов, И.В. Коринченко, Н.М. Григорьева, В.И. Сологаев, А.П. Шевчик; ВНИИ ВОДГЕО. - М.: Стройиздат, 1991. -272 с.

2. Сологаев В.И. Фильтрационные расчеты и компьютерное моделирование при защите от подтопления в городском строительстве: Монография. - Омск: Изд-во СибАДИ, 2002. - 416 с.

3. Сологаев В.И., Чернов Д.А. «Моделирование одномерной плоскопаралелльной нестационарной фильтрации в напорных потоках при турбулентном движении с помощью электронных таблиц при проектировании защиты от подтопления в мелиоративном, городском и дорожном строительстве» -Омск: «Омский научный вестник», 2014 - 260с.

4. Чернов Д.А., Щербаков Н.Н., Сологаев В.И. «Актуальность борьбы с подтоплением зданий, сооружений и мелиорируемых территорий на грунтах малой мощности» - Омск: Материалы Второго Международного научно-технического форума «Реализация государственной программы развития сельского хозяйства и регулирование рынков сельскохозяйственной продукции, сырья и продовольствия: инновации, проблемы, перспективы», 322 с.

INNOVATIVE TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES OF SPECIAL PHYSICAL PREPARATION. TESTING SPECIAL PHYSICAL AND PSYCHOLOGICAL READINESS OF CLIMBING SPORTSMEN

Antonov A.I., Vorobyov V.A., Duryagin D.A., Dolgopolsky V.O., Rasulov M.A.

Arkhangelsk: Northern Arctic Federal University (NArFU) named after MV Lomonosov.

ANNOTATION

The authors offer innovatory technical devices of their own for practical training of mountaineers and climbers. Keywords: Physical culture. Technical sport devices

Technical climbing involves accurate movements of arms and legs, nice, smooth movement, the exact position of the body, a certain rhythm. If we expand the more technical climbing elements, they will consist of the best certain

movements. If the climber is strong enough, then his strength combined with precise movement of hands, feet, body, may lead him to progress very quickly, even without a big fitness.

A climber with good technique has the right skills coordination. A distinctive feature of the optimal motion is softness. In this a climber feels exactly the position of his own body in space and is able to control all muscular effort. A climber's movement depends on the following parameters: speed and strength. One and the same interception, i.e. the movement from one to the other hooks can be performed using a dynamic or breakthrough or by «Reaching». A technically prepared climber in every movement uses it both, but (s) he is soft, strong and flexible, i. e, (s) he climbs, «like a cat. »

In bouldering, you must first train the force of the fingers. While climbing especially for beginners, it is crucial to develop «hammered» forearm muscles which are responsible for flexion-extension movements of the fingers and shoulders and hands. Strength and endurance of the rest of other body muscles are also very important. The main burden should be as much as possible transferred on his feet.

When traveling on hooks the optimal tactic is, as often as possible, to hang out at arm's length and base on bent legs.

In positions of stops and pauses in movement, for stability, you can choose these hooks on the wall and poses for the body to have at least three points of support so that the center of gravity could «hang» between or under them. This provides the ability to carry a fourth limb to the next hold, simultaneously giving her the rest. In the dynamics the center of gravity can be «re-rolled» from one stable state to another with the help of inertia. It strengthens bones, increases endurance.

This technical training device is offered for athletes climbers, as well as for the rehabilitation of people who have suffered heart attacks, strokes and injured limbs, spinal curvature (lordosis, kyphosis, scoliosis), which will help to restore health.

The proposed technical devices can be of four types: as lean-and gable i.e. exercises can be performed on the one side and the other side, and have ball-shaped structure and a conical form. Technical data structures may change the angle and height. Rehabilitation of any specific deviations in the health exercises can be performed at a lower - a gentle slope, the device for climbers is folded to a great height with a sharp angle at which the complexity of the exercise increases. The construction may have a height of 3 - 5 - 10 meters.

In a lean-device is as follows: the simulator consists of a special frame having tubes on both sides of light metal or plastic, which are connected above and below the horizontal beams passing through the vertical tube through the holes which can be free when they are rotated. On these horizontal bars a tape-track conveyor is superposed, by securing its top and bottom, wherein the bottom of one of which may have a ratchet mechanism. On this tape-track fix tennis balls are fixed by using the butterfly bolts for an arbitrary location at a distance of 40-60 cm.

These balls are designed to hand capture in different ways and for the different feet positions. On the other hand, the movable sliding bar with an emphasis on hooks on the rear side of the frame is set and adjusted, top - down, and, thereby, lowering or raising this stand, you can change the angle, if necessary, and the post itself can change its length by folding retractable pipe and secure it to the desired length.

A gable technical structure to a greater extent is offered for training athletes involved in climbing. Unlike lean-

to, it consists of two frames, connected at the top by means of crossing and their attachment holes through the horizontal movable tube, the crossbar, and with their breeding grounds at the bottom part of the frame, the two sloping slide is formed. The apparatus at the bottom of sliding racks is connected by pipes or plates, and if necessary, their length can be increased, thus presenting a sloping hill and the lowest with a large angle, up to the horizontal level. When reducing the connection length of the lower grounds, the device may be of a greater height hill, where the angle between the frames at the top becomes less sharp for use (slides) by training athletes. The frame is provided with the same conveyor belt, and Bandy balls can be used, they are attached to the belt by piercing them through the bolt and on the other side of the belt flat nuts are fastened. Balls of bandy have a lasting quality and can be used to exercise for longer periods. All of the exercises are performed in these embodiments, the outer frame-side feed. It should be noted that this technical structure may be converted so that the balls are arranged on the inner sides of the device. It is not difficult to do. So, you can take all the gable device, de-compose it into a horizontal position, pick up one of the frames and move to the other side, forming a mound with balls located on the inner side of the entire structure. Or all of the device lying horizontally flip 180* and lift up the middle part, forming a triangular structure. In the bottom of the frame is a platform-base with a movable lock.

Technical devices (fig 1) of lean-and gable types are explained in the following figures: as in Figure (a, b) with a side view with a description lean-device, wherein: the side bar of the frame 1, the movable horizontal bar 2, a conveyor belt 3, balls to hand capture 4 thrust 5 hooks, sliding locks 6, 7 incoming trunk, the outer hollow tube to stop the frame 8. gable device for training athletes, as well as to perform special exercises for rehabilitation of people with diseases listed above are illustrated in figures (c, d) with a side view where: side rods or tubes 1, 2 horizontal bars, conveyor belt 3, 4 balls fixed, mobile locks 6, LC-9 base, adjustable both oblique connection with fixing frames 10.

In Figure (e) shows the frame with a front view, where: 1 laterals, movable horizontal bar 2, a conveyor belt, lane 3, balls mounted on the belt 4 on the lower horizontal bar to tighten the belt ratchet 11.

Similarly, the authors propose a technical device and spherical cone types, which are also designed for rehabilitation in the development of hand, feet muscles and generally strengthen the entire body to people suffering from dis-eases of muscular - skeletal system. These devices can be used for the rehabilitation of people who have passed the initial treatment and are able to independently perform the exercises. Currently, there are many expensive hardware. Our proposed devices and accessories are simple structures, mobile, easy to manufacture, the material available. The technical device in training climbers is represented in the form of a truncated sphere in the base for a stable position on the floor, and can also be movable through the installation of rollers in the bot-tom of the bowl. Around the ball inside and outside, in a circular manner balls in the holes in the wall are set and connected by hollow pipes coming out of each ball by embedding them inside each other and screwing. Thus a bunch of two balls that pass through the holes in the wall spherical device is formed.

The design of the ball and a bunch of small balls are made of durable material, or light metal. Similarly appears and tapered the device with all the elements of the spherical design. Exercises on these devices are manufactured both outside and inside and have the most diverse array of options for the development of the hands and feet. They can be performed in various grabbing hands positions (top, bottom, and direct capture of the ball), with different staging the feet (supported toe middle portion, heel, side of the foot outer and inner sides). Movements can be: a straight line up in a circle, with side heterotypic staging of the feet, the same exercises performed back to the device with different formulation of the foot; for athletes - climbers it may be head down slopes, with simultaneous rearrangement of the hands and feet. Jumping up and running may start on a small device with one, two feet from the floor on the balls which are at the base of the device, as well as jumping from the floor to capture balls by hands. Exercise to be carried out within these devices can be considered as their use in hazardous environments requiring special attention and concentration of all actions of the athlete. Because movements will be carried out in a (almost) dark space, to overcome fear, which is an important quality for athletes - climbers. All movements are basically the same

as the outside ones. There are movements performed by hanging on the hands: so climbing to the top of the structure to move to the other side, at some point, the athlete will have to swap hands without legs: that may require to have a reasonably good physical condition, good orientation and psychological stability. To complicate the movements inside, the device can be moved on rollers, which are placed in the foundations of the structures in different directions, creating additional challenges to face and make the best decisions to capture balls tassels and stable position of the stop of the feet. To control the physical and technical training in climbing it is recommended to use a variety of tests to monitor their fitness training on time, № of laps around the done devices, lifts up the rate rises on some hands, climbs to the top of the device only by legs with different feet staging.

The following technical equipment available for use by athletes climbers are: (fig 2) one of them is represented in the form of a truncated sphere and illustrated by the following figures: for example, in Figure (a) shows a side view of the cone-shaped structure, where: 1 round cone, filled with both outside and inside the balls 2 base 6 rollers 5. The com-pound sphere of balls

Fig 2

In Figure (b) general view of the device, where: 1 bowl body, both inside and outside balls stuffed with two truncated parts of the sphere, serving as a base 6, if necessary, attached rollers 5. Node 1 illustrates the location of the balls and their connection through the wall of the sphere, where: ball 1, ball 2 outer, inner ball 3. Node 2 shows the connection of the balls screwed nozzles 4.

Psychophysical testing of cliffhangers' training Testing of physical and mental training involves the complex of special exercises presented in the manual, as exemplary, and are subject to increase the range and complexity by coaches and athletes themselves.

They are a means to prevent possible stress states of athletes - climbers: feelings of anxiety, fear and mental stress caused by the uncertain turn of events and actions.

An important role in the psychophysical training of athletes is assigned to the information they receive in the

Jump down to the mat from the top of the lean-to device. Jump delay to: 3 seconds is estimated at 3 scores;

2 seconds worth 4 points; 1 second is estimated at 5 points.

course of performing specific tests proposed by the authors. The test results and teacher observations will also help to assess the functional state of the organism as a whole and the level of overall physical performance of an athlete in particular.

Special exercises to assess psychophysical preparedness are presented by the authors of these technical devices: lean and gable on truncated cone and a sphere, the criteria which may include: exercises on the №, time, distance records for a certain period of time, expert evaluation of the athlete's behavior, vasomotor, autonomic and psychological reactions before, during and after the test. On the results of audit athletes are given recommendations for further individual training.

Approximate testing of psychophysical training in teaching climbing

Jump down to the mat from the upper part of the lean-to device, back forward. Jump delay to: 5 sec. rating - 3 score; 4 sec. Assessment - 4 points; 3 sec. rating - 5 points.

Speed running on the sloping gable device followed by tumbling forward in a standing position at descent. Score depends on the height position of the device.

Ascent and descent on the gable device backwards with the backward roll at the end. Provide secure landing and installation of foam mats.

Climb ascent inside a truncated cone, exit out and head forward descent on arms and legs (on all fours). Movable balls - wall

The proposed movable wall on the balls (fig 3) is intended for training athletes and climbers, for use in physical education and sport, being a kind of gym wall. The main difference is that instead of gymnastic ladder rungs balls on the shield are installed on both sides to grab by their hands and feet to place.

The main purpose of this device is to perform the exercises in an unusual way and in a new form, which develops hands muscles, their tenacity, the ability to efficiently rearrange the feet, working at overcoming fear and

the gradual improvement of the nerve-psychological state, developing them during training. Such a device in its novelty will attract students to classes on it, unlike gymnastics ladder, which in recent years has become unattractive. There is a great need to use it not only in the preparation of athletes and students, but also for employees of M.E.S.(MHC), M.F. (B.C.) and many other specialties as profession-ally applied.

This technical device may consist of solid metal or plastic sheets up to 5 meters and a width of 3 to 5 meters, forming a shield section, the amount of which depends on the

size of the hall or playground located on the street. They are mobile, because can easily be the charge of the wall in the gym, hall or can be placed perpendicular to the wall, thereby to increase the capacity of its use during its operation in physical education and sports.

Panels are fixed to the sides of the rack-pipe, on top of which to strengthen, horizontal bars are placed. One of the racks is attached to the wall of the hall, gym, which can rotate in any direction, the second post at the shield base has a roller for removing it in the desired position, then it is fixed on this site. This position will be ready to perform a variety of exercises and movements.

The main element of this device is that the balls are installed on the mobile and fixed panel on both sides of the structure. Setting goals and securing are explained as follows. The centered drilled hole in the ball for the dip sleeve having a threaded outer to strengthen it in the ball, and to fit the inner horizontal bar, which is on both sides of the external thread. Installation begins with the attachment of the rod in the hole board, then put the washer and tighten the screws, then at the end of the rod the ball into the sleeve is threaded. A similar procedure is performed on the other side of the shield. The final action of the installation and fixing goals is a gradual and uniform crackdown, while tightly clutching washers to the shields, placing nuts gives some distance between the shield and the ball for a more comfortable grip by hands and feet to stop.

This unit is explained in the following figures: Fig. № 1 - is a perspective view of one section of the front-panel 1, where the sides of the shield attached to stand-pipe 2, which

A B

is superimposed on top of the pipe to strengthen the mobile device shield 3, rod packing sheets on both sides of the shield 4, balls location 5, at the base vertical stand a roller 6.

Figure 1 shows the possible position of the shield: a -(position) location at the wall of the gym, b - position, the shield is deployed at an angle of 45* in the - position, deployed at a large angle. When you install this position and shield its base is fixed to the floor. Figure № 2 shows a front view of the desk, which is attached to the wall, wherein the capsule 7, the upper rack shaft 8, which pro-vides freedom of movement in a circle. Figure 3 shows the front view, where: shield-section 1, the core 4, ball 5, sleeve with internal and external thread 9, external threads on the rod 10, washer adjacent to the shield 12, fixing nut 11.

Figure 3:

Methodical instructions on the location of balls: Balls can be placed as strictly in a row vertically and horizontally, and the asymmetric manner. The recommended location of balls on one shield side of larger diameter (for adults) and on the other side of the panel with a smaller diameter to capture by the hands (for school-children). Balls size must comply to capture a ball by hands.

Hand grips of the ball can be: the capture of the ball from below the fingers together, on top, the fingers together and straight grip, fingers apart.

Legs and knees staging can be made herringbone: the feet turned outwards, another opposite position - one foot turned outwards, the other inside. Move-ments by knees, legs may be horizontal, vertical, diagonal, zigzag manner, and other.

B

X

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fig 3

References

1. Antonovich II Sport climbing. M., 1978.

2. PiratinskiyA.E. Preparation climber. M., 1987.

3. Baykovsky Y. Fundamentals of sports training in mountain species sporta.M., 1966

5.

Erbesfield A., Boga S, Sport Climbing with Robyn

Erbesfield. Stack- pole Books, 1997.

Long X Gym Clnnbl Chockstone Press, 1994.

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