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30Современные инновации, системы и технологии // Modern Innovations, Systems and Technologies
2022; 2(2) eISSN: 2782-2818 https://www.oajmist.com
УДК: 677.017
DOI: https://doi.org/10.47813/2782-2818-2022-2-2-0169-0177
EDN: AYAMWK
Влияние свойств сырья на качество изделия
Н.Т. Гафурова, Н.И. Хикматов, Д.Ф. Баракаева
Бухарский инженерно-технологический институт, Бухара, Узбекистан
Аннотация. Целью данной статьи является изучение методов определения и прогнозирования драпируемости ткани. Драпируемость - одно из основных эстетических свойств ткани, которое необходимо учитывать при проектировании тканей с заданными свойствами, получая швейные изделия нужной формы и обеспечивая их эффективное производства. Анализ литературы выявил ряд результатов опытных способов образования драпируемости и необходимость учета новых сведений о характерных способах формирования складок и сборок. Проанализированы показатели производства текущих объемов шелковых и смешанных тканей, выбираемых для одежды, а также представлены результаты экспериментальных исследований.
Ключевые слова: свойства тканей, качество, драпируемость, складки, анализ, шелк, полиэфирное волокно, эксперимент, проектирование.
Для цитирования: Гафурова, Н.Т., Хикматов, Н.И., & Баракаева, Д.Ф. (2022). Влияние свойств сырья на качество изделия. Современные инновации, системы и технологии - Modern Innovations, Systems and Technologies, 2(2), 0169-0177. https://doi.org/10.47813/2782-2818-2022-2-2-0169-0177
Influence of raw properties on product quality
N.T. Gafurova, N.I. Hikmatov, D.F. Barakaeva
Bukhara Engineering Technological Institute, Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Abstract. The purpose of this article is to study methods for determining and predicting the drapability of a fabric. Drapability is one of the main aesthetic properties of fabric that must be taken into account when designing fabrics with desired properties, obtaining garments of the desired shape and ensuring their efficient production. An analysis of the literature revealed a number of results of experimental methods for the formation of drapery and the need to take into account new information about the characteristic methods for the formation of folds and gathers. The indicators of production of current volumes of silk and mixed fabrics chosen for clothing are analyzed, and the results of experimental studies are presented.
Keywords: fabric properties, quality, drape, folds, analysis, silk, polyester fiber, experiment, design.
© N. T. Gafurova, N. I. Hikmatov, D.F. Barakaeva, 2022
0169
@ ®
For citation: Gafurova, N., Hikmatov, N., & Barakaeva, D. (2022). Influence of raw properties on product quality. Modern Innovations, Systems and Technologies, 2(2), 0169-0177. https://doi.org/10.47813/2782-2818-2022-2-2-0169-0177
INTRODUCTION
The drapery of the fabric was the basis for the creation of the dress form. Drapery has existed since the earliest times of human development. The type of drapery is determined by the purpose and method of shaping the clothes and the fiber composition of the textile material used. The nature of the formation of drapery folds significantly affects the choice of design, constructive and technological solutions for clothing, as well as the method of shaping.
Drapery is used not only for shaping clothes, but also for textile decoration of the interior of rooms, namely, draping curtains and curtains. Insufficient information on a wide range of textile materials and on the indicators of drapeability of fabrics does not make it possible to obtain high-quality and attractive garments. A special place in the assortment is occupied by fabrics with pile. Fabrics with pile from natural and especially from chemical threads have high plasticity, beautiful appearance, and are used for sewing clothes and curtains [1].
Pile fabrics are fabrics with pile, fully or partially covered with pile. Pile improves the appearance of fabrics, the air gap formed by it reduces the thermal conductivity of the fabric, reduces wear and tear and facilitates draping. Pile fabrics are widely used in clothing, as well as for interior decoration.
The known characteristics of existing methods for determining drapeability do not provide the necessary information about the ability of textile materials to form draperies at different angles to the longitudinal direction, thanks to which it is possible to design beautiful products, obtain more economical arrangement of patterns on the floor for cutting, and, on the basis of this, reduce material consumption, and therefore and the price of products [2].
Existing methods for determining drapeability do not fully cover the interests of designers and constructors, because this property does not fully take into account the real conditions for the formation of folds in the design of clothing and curtains. Of considerable interest to the design of clothing and curtains is the development of computational methods for determining the characteristics of drapery.
In modern conditions, the development of methods for assessing and predicting drapeability is an urgent task from the point of view of accompanying the direction of fashion
and quality management at the design stages of fabrics and garments and ensuring the release of products that have a high aesthetic demand of consumers.
A significant contribution to the study of the drapeability of materials was made by: Sklyannikov V.P., Tamarkina M.A., Shpayer A.M., Kapelevich T.M., Kirsanova E.A., Smirnova N.A., Rakitskikh V.V., Smirnov A.V. and others. Based on the works of these authors, two main groups of factors affecting drapeability were identified. The first group is the characteristics of the structure of the fabrics (raw material composition and type of threads (yarn), weave, linear density of threads, etc.); the second group - the characteristics of the garment (type of folds, area and shape of the drapery; constructive and technological solution) [3,4].
MATERIALS AND METHODS
An urgent task from the standpoint of the production of competitive garments is the development of methods for assessing, researching and predicting the drapability of textile fabrics.
Drapery characteristics of conventional methods do not allow us to evaluate the appearance, degree of symmetry and shape of vertical and downward folds in draperies [5,6].
To assess the ability of textile materials to form draperies with vertical folds in various directions, a method has been developed for determining the anisotropy of drapery using a round sample with a diameter of 400±1 mm, which makes it possible to determine the characteristics of drapery in any direction of cutting. Sample marking is carried out in different directions, for example, at angles of 0.15, 30, 45, 60, 75, 90.. .345° to the longitudinal one.
An urgent task from the point of view of the aesthetics of attractive clothing is the development of methods for assessing, researching and predicting the drapability of a fabric.
Characteristics of drapery, which are determined by conventional methods, do not allow us to assess the possibilities of shaping clothes and obtaining the necessary appearance, the degree of symmetry or asymmetry, the shape of vertical and downward folds in draperies [5,6].
To determine the ability of textile materials to form draperies with folds in various directions, a method has been developed for determining the anisotropy of draperies. This technique is carried out using a round sample of fabric with a diameter of 400±1 mm, which makes it possible to determine the characteristics of drapery in any direction of the cut angle. The study of samples is carried out in different directions, for example, at angles of 0.15, thirty; 45, 60, 75, 90 ... 345° to the longitudinal threads of the fabric.
Drapeability indicators in accordance with Figure 1 are: drapery coefficient (Da, %), calculated by formula (1); maximum fold depth (Ba, mm); number of folds (Na); the angle of deviation of the central fold from the axis of symmetry depending on the direction of the warp
К
a
thread of the fabric (Pa, deg); the vertical fold projection form factor ^pr.f calculated by the
following formula (2).
The formation of draperies in different directions relative to the warp threads makes it possible to determine the anisotropy of the drape of the fabric.
400-^a. 100
400 %,
(1)
Determination of the ability to form a vertical fold
КI
pr-f
rra _
К pr.f -
А
(2)
The advantage of the method is the modeling of the processes of formation of vertical folds under its own weight, the expansion of knowledge about the formation, symmetry of folds, drapery characteristics, anisotropy, testing for labor intensity and material consumption of tests.
To determine the ability of fabrics to form draperies with falling folds, a technique has been developed that allows modeling the process of drapery formation under the action of its own weight on the details of clothing and curtains in different directions relative to the direction of the warp threads. The technique involves the use of a fabric sample in the form of a circle with a diameter of 400±1 mm, the determination of the drapery anisotropy is carried out similarly to the method [7,8].
The indicators of drapeability are according to figure 2: diagonal folds (Aa), which reveals the ability of the fabric to form falling folds and is calculated by formula (3); displacement of the center of the fold relative to the axis of symmetry (ha, mm); number of folds na; multiplicity angle (Pa, deg); the coefficient of the shape of the diagonal projection of the fold, which makes it possible to evaluate the use of textile material for the required form of the deflection of the falling fold when designing garments, and is calculated by formula (4).
Аа =у1 аа2 + bal
(3)
тга b
К pr. f =
a
(4)
1 - supporting surface;
2 - slider with a measuring ruler;
3 - rack;
4 - clamp with needles;
5 - horizontal clamp with needles;
6 - fabric sample
Figure 1. Scheme of the device for determining the anisotropy of drape fabric.
1 - supporting surface;
2 - clamps;
3 - sample
Figure 2. Scheme of an instrument for determining the ability of textile materials for the formation of draperies.
a
The processing of experimental data was carried out using computer programs EXCEL, MATHCAD, STATISTICA and PHOTOSHOP using the methods of correlation-regression analysis and mathematical statistics.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The research results showed that the drapeability of both natural and chemical fabrics with the formation of vertical and falling folds depend on the direction cut, composition and weave of fabrics [9,10]. Most of the studied fabrics have the greatest ability to form draperies in the direction of 45° to the warp threads. For equally dense fabrics along warp and weft threads of different weaves, draperies have a symmetrical location relative to the diagonal direction in accordance with Figure 3 (a), for unequal fabrics, drapery indicators are maximum, which are shifted towards the system where the largest number of threads per 10 cm in warp or weft R o, y and lower linear density threads T o, y in accordance with Figure 3 (b). When forming draperies with vertical folds, in most cases, the location of the draperies is shifted towards a system of threads with a minimum linear thread density K, y, when forming draperies with falling folds - with a large number threads per 10 cm of fabric.
The dependence of drape characteristics on the cutting direction is described by the 2nd order equation (5):
Da (Аа ) = аа2 + ва + с ,
(5)
where Da - is the drapery coefficient, % (vertical folds); Aa - diagonal projection of the fold, mm (falling folds); a, b, c - coefficients characteristic of the tissue under study; a - cutting angle, deg.
a)
Drape factor
6 46 2 6 03 s -
3 63 45 23 04 S -
4 64 44 24 0-
rJIrflrflif
п 1гП_г
Coal
Silk, cotton weave Ms=l 60 g/m2; To=46.7; Ty=66:7; Po=180; Py=120 Polyester, cotton weave Ms=l 31 g/m2; To=10; Ty=21; Po=560; Py=310
b)
a) - equal-density tissues; b) - unequal tissues
Figure 3. Change in the characteristics of the drape of silk and polyester fabrics from the direction of cutting (vertical folds).
The coefficients determined by equation (5) for some types of fabrics of natural and chemical fabrics are presented in table 1.
Table 1. Coefficients a, b, c determined by equation.
Types Types of Weave and fabric weight of folds fabric
Coefficients
а
b
c
Correlation dependence
vertical
falling
silk
plain weave, Ms=130 g/m2 plain weave, Ms=148 g/m2 plain weave, Ms=100 g/m2 polyester finely patterned weave,
Ms =37 g/m2
plain weave, Ms=182 g/m2 silk finely patterned weave,
Ms =200 g/m2 plain weave, Ms =48 t/m2 polyester finely patterned weave, Ms =37 g/m2
-0.01 0.77 40.5 0.94 -0.01 0.64 40.84 0.96 -0.01 0.75 42.74 0.93
-0.01 0.52 45.67 0.91
-0.01 0.63 62.82 0.93
-0.01 0.95 70.69 0.94
-0.01 1.08 78.08 0.98
-0.02 1.4 81.61 0.96
Significant formation of folds, characterizing the degree of their collection, assessment: deviation of the angle of the fold relative to the axis of the collection Pa and displacement of the center of the fold relative to the axis of the collection ha, mm (downward), degrees
(vertically). The value depends on the direction of cutting parts and the composition of the fabric. According to the results of the experiment, the minimum values were revealed in the diametrical range and close to it at angles of 30°-60°, and the maximum values - in the directions of 15° and 75° to the warp threads.
The characterizing factor of the folds is the angle Pa, deg. For the main part of the studied tissues, the value of the fold angle, the largest roundness corresponds to the volume at 45°; minimum values - when directed parallel to the warp and weft threads. The slope value increases for both silk and polyester fabrics. At Pa < 155° the folds are rounded, at Pa < 155° -angular. The highest values of drape are typical for jacquard and finely patterned weave fabrics, and the lowest values for plain weave fabrics.
CONCLUSIONS
As a result of experimental studies, the influence of the composition, weave and charcoal of the. The shift of the maximum drape indicators towards one of the thread systems can be changed by a rationally located constructive division. With the formation of vertical folds, longitudinal structural divisions increase the drapability in the directions of 0-15°.
For the qualitative formation of vertical folds, the formation of horizontal folds is prevented, since they provide rigidity to the tissues. The cut of clothing details along the weft threads contributes to the formation of vertical folds in the directions of 75-90°. Diagonal structural divisions increase the ability of fabrics to form vertical folds in directions close to 45° and reduce drapeability in orthogonal directions. In the formation of falling folds from silk fabrics, a positive effect of structural divisions on the characteristics of drapery was established. If the structural division coincides with the direction of fold formation, the drapability increases by 20-30%.
REFERENCES
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ИНФОРМАЦИЯ ОБ АВТОРАХ / INFORMATION ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Гафурова Н.Т., Бухарский инженерно-технологический институт, Бухара, Узбекистан
e-mail: [email protected]
Хикматов Н.И., Бухарский инженерно-технологический институт, Бухара, Узбекистан
Баракаева Д.Ф., Бухарский инженерно-технологический институт, Бухара, Узбекистан
Gafurova N.T., Bukhara Engineering Technological Institute, Bukhara, Uzbekistan
e-mail: [email protected]
Hikmatov N.I., Bukhara Engineering Technological Institute, Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Barakaeva D.F., Bukhara Engineering Technological Institute, Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Статья поступила в редакцию 16.05.2022; одобрена после рецензирования 25.05.2022; принята
к публикации 22.06.2022.
The article was submitted 16.05.2022; approved after reviewing 25.05.2022; accepted for publication
22.06.2022.
