CC BY
32
Ways and technologies for making natural silk
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.20534/ESR-16-9.10-179-181
Akhmedov Zhakhongir Adkhamovich, PhD., Alimova Khalimakhan, Dr. prof., Aripdjanova Dilafruz Uktamovna, Dr. Bastamkulova Khanifa Davranovna, Tashkent Institute Textile And Light Industry, Uzbekistan
E-mail: [email protected]
Ways and technologies for making natural silk
Abstract: The present article is devoted to the ways and technology of making natural silk beginning from formation of cocoons to a yarn, raw silk, twisted yarn and before development of various fabrics on superficial density. There is given an assortment of silk fabrics dress-costume appointments and the new sample of a fabric with an outer effect of a multi-coloured cell. Keywords: raw silk, cocoon, linear density, silk fabric, crepe, twisted.
Introduction: Silk fabrics are subdivided into groups depending on their appointment, raw structure, method of production and finishing (stuffed and one-colored) in a type of use of a thread or a yarn (raw silk, crepe-twisted, textured, etc.) and on others signs. In uniform qualifier of industrial output silk fabrics are divided depending on their appointment into the following groups: a) dress; dress and costume, vesting; b) shirt; c) corset; d) lining; e) pile clothe; e) decorative; g) cloak; h) technical appointment and other piece products.
Analyses: Natural silk represents allocation of a silkworm product by caterpillars (Bombyx Mori) of a special secret from silk glands.
At first silkworm eggs are kept in incubatory period at temperature 18,33 °C and in 2-3 days gradually increase up to 25 °C, until larvae will not appear. They are fed for two times in an hour with young leaves of mulberry tree, preserved against draft, noise and foreign smells. Then within 4-6 weeks, there is carried out fattening of a silkworm, so far there is grows caterpillar from larvae reaching maximum size — about 7,5 cm, then there comes time to twist
the cocoons. Caterpillars begin to produce jellylike substance — proteinaceous threads which are tied together with sericin protein (allocated by other glands) and harden at contact with air in the form of a cocoon thread. In 3-4 days due to continuous rotation the silkworm is wrapped up with silk thread laid in the form of eight-figurative forms in bags, curling into cocoons [1].
In the nature, from a cocoon in 15-16 days there would hatch butterflies, destroying a cover of a cocoon and bringing to non-suitable state for unwinding, having spoiled a continuity of a silk thread.
For long storage of cover quality the cocoon are exposed to drying (necrosis of doll) by processing in hot air, steam, IR-beams, freezing, etc. By means of processing by steam, hot water and unwinding from 4-12 cocoons there are taken raw-silk with various linear density: 1,56; 1,89; 2,33; 3,23; 4,65 tex [2].
For production of beautiful silk fabrics of various range, it is necessary to prepare corresponding raw materials by giving of various twist. Range of some types of silk fabrics and ways of their development is given [3; 4; 5] in table.
Table 1. - Range and methods to make some silk fabrics for dress-costume appointments
№ name of fabric Thread Raw Thread density surface density, Method of inter-
system name thickness (to 10 cm) g/m2 lacing
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
B Cr. r-s 1,56x2 370 380
1. Crepe-chiffon S Cr. r-s 1,56x2 28,87 linen weave
W Cr. r-s 1,56x2
B Cr. r-s 2,33x2 380 380
2. Crepe-chiffon S Cr. r-s 2,33x2 43,10 linen weave
W Cr. r-s 2,33x2
B Cr. r-s 2,33x4 380 280
3. Crepe-georgette S Cr. r-s 2,33x4 81,14 linen weave
W Cr. r-s 2,33x2
4. Crepe-de-shin B S r-s r-s 2,33 2,33 360 330 75,87 linen weave
W Cr. r-s 2,33x4
5. Crepe-de-shin B S r-s Pr. s. y. 2,33 5,0x2 500 350 78,68 linen weave
W Cr. r-s 2,33x4
6. Crepe-de-shin B S r-s r-s 2,33 2,33 440 300 87,55 linen weave
W Cr. r-s 2,33x5
B r-s 2,33 900
7. Crepe-satin S W r-s Cr. r-s 1,56x2 2,33x4 460 98,9 Atlas 5/2
Section 10. Technical sciences
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
8. Crepe-fie B S W r-s Cr. r-s Pr. s. y. Cr. r-s 2,33 2,33x4 5,0x2 2,33x4 360 360 440 133,37 Small figured Reps. weft 2/2
9. Crepe-extra B S W Cr. r-s Cr. r-s Cr. r-s 2,33x4 2,33x4 2,33x3 870 600 153,82 multi-layer
10. Crepe-flux B S W Cr. r-s Cr. r-s Cr. r-s 2,33x4 2,33x4 2,33x3 870 500 154,66 diagonal
Shortened designations of table.
B-basis; S-selvage; W-weft; Cr..r- - raw silk; Pr. - s. y. - silk yarn, received from fiber waste of natural silk.
Volume of raw silk in world balance of textile raw materials does not exceed 0,15-0,2%, and demand for silk products grows from year to year.
Reasons of popularity of silk fabrics and products throughout several millennia are covered in their unique properties:
- high hygroscopicity and large air permeability, silk perfectly absorbs moisture - to 30% of weight and at the same time remains dry to the touch. The secret is that thread just grows in a size, and due to air circulation there is a fast evaporation of excessive moisture unlike cotton;
- thermal control - silk is capable to maintain temperature, optimum for human body, - depending on environmental temperature as excellently adapts to body temperature and provides additional heat (if it is necessary in these conditions);
- hygiene and hypoallergenicity - silk does not collect a heat and reproduction of microbes and dust pincers in it is impossible;
- silk in its structure is similar to human skin, (contains all types of amino acids of human body), due to what it promotes regeneration and detains aging of organism;
- special durability and reliability - a silk thread with identical thickness of steel wire, has stronger durability, and fabric from it - is the most wearproof;
- consumer properties of silk fabrics - ease, gloss and excellent drape property - promote even more appeal of this material;
- silk it is a material which may serve till 20-25 years upon proper care.
All fabrics consist of two systems of threads intertwining among themselves in different ways. Arrangement of threads to fabrics and their characteristics is given in fig. 1.
From tab. and fig. 1. we may see the followings: in order to produce various best-selling fabrics it is necessary to prepare the bases corresponding to requirement of threads and weft.
Silk fabrics are subdivided into groups depending on their appointment, raw structure, method of production and finishing (stuffed and one-colored) in a type of use of a thread or a yarn (raw silk, crepe-twisted, textured, etc.) and on others signs. In uniform qualifier of industrial output silk fabrics are divided depending on their appointment into the following groups: a) dress; dress and costume, vesting; b) shirt; c) corset; d) lining; e) pile clothe; e) decorative; g) cloak; h) technical appointment and other piece products. Inside of each group division into subgroups on fiber: from natural silk or in mixture with other fibers in various combinations.
Fabric
Principal thread Shot wire
Along the fabric there goes basis of thread Cross wire the fabric there goes shot wire
1 r
Defines length of fabric Defines width of fabric
* 1
Can be strong, thin, smooth, direct, uniform on thickncss, strongly twisted, rigid, not stretching, makes a ringing sound at sharp stretching on a basis silk fabrics
Can be thick, fluffy, wavy, uneven on thickness, slightly twisted, soft,
may be stretched, makes a deaf sound at sharp stretching on a weft silk fabrics
Figure 1. Arrangement of silk threads in fabrics and their characteristics
Researches have shown that range of classical silk fabric are generally developed from raw silk with a linear density of 2,33 tex. It should be noted that in connection with transition to market economy the only one silk complex in the republic Margilan silk combine, releasing crepe fabrics went out of business without having sustained competition.
Despite development of production of national silk and semisilk fabrics like "Khan Atlas", "Bekasab", "Adras", etc. now classical crepe silk fabrics in our Republic are almost not made.
We have developed a way for development of silk twisted thread for production of new range of silk fabric.
Study of functioning of reservoirs in the form of cylindrical shells
There is known a method of receiving twisted threads by addition of several threads of raw silk, preliminary reporting the right twist, then these threads are connected and reported into the left twist. Raw materials for production of silk fabrics with crepe effect re prepared in such method [3]. Deficiency for this method is that upon two phase method of prepared twisted threads — produced silk fabrics to some extent are confirmed to crease retention at tip of products. A new way for receiving twisted silk thread from raw silk, consisting in twisting torsion, differs with that fact that for receiving a thread of linear density 18-26 tex there is used raw silk of linear density of 2,33 and 3,23 tex by addition of two threads and torsion 800 kr/m in the left direction then additions of two threads and torsion 750-tw/m, in the right direction and the third time addition of both of these threads and torsion 700-tw/m in the left direction, then steam chamber is counterbalanced a three-phase twist of threads. On novelty of a method there is acquired IAP patent No. 20130325.
For receiving a new sample of silk fabric with linen weave on surface in the form of effect of a cell there were exposed threads to multi-colored dyeing.
In the result there is worked out dress and costume fabric with formation of effect of a multi-colored cell due to use of colored new twisted threads of increased linear density as on a basis and on weft, providing its high durability and crease-resistance, sample of fabric is given in fig. 2. (there is acquired SAP patent No. 01254)
Figure 2. A new sample of silk fabric with cell effect
Conclusions:
1. With analytical research it is established that classical range of crepe silk fabrics generally with linen weave, are developed from raw silk from linear density of 2,33 tex in several additions and by giving various twist to threads.
2. There is worked out a way of development of new range for twisted silk thread and there is made fabric sample on surface in the form of multi-colored effect of a cell. (There is acquired IAP patents No. 20130325 and SAP No. 01254)
References:
1. Михайлов Е. Н. Шелководство. - М. - 1950. - 496 с.
2. Рубинов Э. Б. Технология шелка. - М. - 1981. - 393 с.
3. Усенко В. А. Шелкокручение - М. - 1983. - 248 с.
4. Справочник. Переработка химических волокон и натурального шелка. Часть III. Ткачество и ассортимент. - М. - 1970. -445 с. (Под общей редакцией к. т.н. М. Д. Талызина)
5. URL: http: www shweinoedelo.ru. assortiment - tkanei.
6. Алимова Х. А., Усенко В. А. Ипакни эшиш. - Тошкент. Шарк; нашриёти. - 2001. - Б. 249.
7. Арипджанова Д. У Создание комплексной технологии производства женской одежды из шерстяных и смесовых тканей Дисс... д. т.н. - Т. - 2015. - 231 с.
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.20534/ESR-16-9.10-181-184
Davlyatov Shokhrukh Muratovich, Senior Scientific Worker-Researcher, Tashkent Architecture and Construction Institute, Tashkent, Uzbekistan E-mail: [email protected]
Study of functioning of reservoirs in the form of cylindrical shells
Abstract: Research results of the functioning of steel reservoirs for liquid oil products storing are given in the paper; the reservoirs are produced in the form of cylindrical shells based on the models designed by "ANSYS" computer program (USA).
Keywords: cylindrical shell, steel reservoir, smooth walls, reinforced walls, reinforced cylindrical panel, rolled channel bar, ^section, G-section roll-formed shapes, strength, stability, stress.
The models of steel cylindrical reservoirs with smooth walls The diameter of the reservoir: D=2800 mm (r=1400 mm);
(without the reinforcement) and with reinforced vertical walls along Wall thickness: t = 5 mm.
the generatrix by the elements in the form of cylindrical panels of The dimensions (parameters) of vertical reinforcing elements
plate steel, rolled channel bars, C-section and G-section roll-formed along the entire height of reservoir wall are:
shapes are considered here (Fig.1). Calculations have been conduct- 1. Arc distance of cylindrical panel of plate steel: S=454 mm, t =
ed by «ANSYS» computer program (USA) [1]. =5 mm, A=22,7 cm 2.
The dimensions of reservoir models are taken as: 2. Rolled channels bars № 18 а: h=180 mm, b= 74 mm,
The height of the reservoir H=2960 mm; d=5,1 mm, t = 9,3 mm, A= 22,2 cm 2.
