CC BY
12
Batirova Rano Holjigitovna, masters,
Tashpulatov Salih Shukurovich, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor, Cherunova Irina Viktorovna, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor, Mansurova Munisa Anvarovna, Doctor of Technical Sciences, fasociate Рrofessor, Matismailov Sayfulla Lolashbaevich, Candidate of Technical Sciences, Associate Professor, Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry E-mail: ssht61@mail.ru
IMPROVEMENT OF CLASSIFICATION OF FACTORS AFFECTING THE QUALITY OF SILICON CONNECTIONS IN SEWING PRODUCTS
Abstract. this article is devoted to the analysis of technological factors affecting the strength properties of threaded j oints in the details of garments. At the same time, special attention is paid to the properties, structure and geometry of the interlacing of the used fabrics, as well as the technological sewing regimes and the parameters of the seams. As a result of the studies, a classification of the factors influencing the strength properties of the threaded joints of the garment details was developed.
Keywords: technological operations, grinding of parts, thread joints, sewing threads, seam, factors, interlacing and structure.
From the implementation of the technological operation to grind the parts of garments, the strength properties of the threaded joints largely depend, in turn, which determine the quality of the product as a whole. This problem was devoted to the majority of scientific research, which were aimed at improving the quality of technological operations in the manufacture of garments [1-3].
If we analyze by assortment of garments, then depending on the purpose of the product, close attention was paid to such indicators of thread joints as the expansion of the seams in the fabric for products of light assortment [4-6]. Also, ensuring the tightness of the seams for special clothing [7; 8], the unresponsiveness of the seams for the range of products from multi-layered fabric with increased hairiness [9].
During the formation of stitches, the quality of the threaded joints is influenced by various factors caused by the kind of weaving and the structure of the stitches, the type and properties of the materials and threads, the parameters of the seams, the technological sewing regimes, etc.
Factors affecting the quality of the threaded joints of clothing items are divided into 6 groups (figure).
Group 1 - these are factors that depend on the type of weaving and stitch structure. The structure, appearance, dimensional characteristics and properties of stitches are significantly influenced by the number of threads participating
in their formation. At any weaving, the stitches can be visible and hidden. Threads ofvisible and secret stitches are arranged on the material in different ways:
- along the line (longitudinal); across the line (zigzag); around the edge ofthe material; inside the cross-linking materials.
- Simple stitches consist of 1-2 threads, complex - from 3-4 or more. Stitches can be combined.
Group 2 - factors, depending on the type and properties of the materials used for cross linking. The type and properties of the material affect the wear of sewing needles and threads, the tightness of the stitching, the appearance of the stitch. This is due to the fact that when a material is punctured with a needle, a friction occurs between the material, and the sewing thread, the value of which depends:
- from the kind of material (fabric, knitted fabric, non-woven fabric), its structure, density, thickness, etc.; from fibrous composition; from the area and duration of contact of the material with the needle and thread; from the presence of treatment of the tissue with chemically reactive reagents (eg, polymer compositions called for the cross-linking of textile threads), and the like.
Group 3 - these are factors that depend on the type and properties of the threads that form the stitches.
The quality of the thread j oints, both in the transverse and longitudinal directions, as well as at some angle is largely de-
IMPROVEMENT OF CLASSIFICATION OF FACTORS AFFECTING THE QUALITY OF SILICON CONNECTIONS IN SEWING PRODUCTS
termined by the fibrous composition, linear density, structure, twist of the sewing thread, the type of finish of their surface, the degree of weakening of the thread during stitch formation.
Based on the analysis of this group, the strength and elongation of the yarn links, and hence the yarn, as a whole depends on the strength and elongation of the sewing threads.
Figure 1. Improved classification of factors affecting the quality of the filamentary compounds
Group 4 - the factors depending on technological modes of tailoring, which include:
- frequency of stitches in the line; thread tension; speed of grinding; the degree (temperature) of heating the needle during the grinding process; diameter of the sewing needle, sharpening form and wear of its point; pressure of the presser foot on the materials to be sewn, etc.
The choice, installation and maintenance of rational technological modes of grinding are a complex multifactor task.
Group 5- factors that depend on the parameters of the joints:
- number of material layers to be ground; number of thread strings; thickness of the cross-linking materials; width of seam, etc.
Group 6 included those factors that determine the location of the seams, relative to the direction of the nominal thread:
- longitudinal stitching; transverse seam; seam, padded at some angle.
It is the structure of the seam, determined by the method of location and width of the cuts of the material in the seam, the number of stitches and their arrangement, which greatly affects the strength and reliability (endurance) of the threaded joints in the garments.
Thus, the conducted studies made it possible to improve the classification of the factors affecting the strength properties of the filamentous compounds and to determine that the quality of the filamentous compounds depends on many
factors. Therefore, the optimization of the properties of the filamentous compounds is a complex multifactor problem,
to which our subsequent complex studies will be devoted,
by providing interdisciplinary connections such as thread mechanics, polymer chemistry, sewing technology, physics, materials science, heat transfer mass, thermodynamics, e.
Referenses:
1. Tashpulatov S. Sh. Development of highly effective resource-saving technology for the manufacture of garments: Abstract of thesis. dis. ... Doct. tech. Sciences / - Tashkent: TITLES. 2008.- 42 p.
2. Cherunova I. V. Theoretical bases of complex designing of special clothes: Abstract. of thesis. dis. ... Doct. tech. Sciences / Mines: YURGUES, 2008.- 42 p.
3. Tashpulatov S. Sh., Andreeva E. G. Theoretical foundations of the technology of making garments / Textbook. - Tashkent, 2017.- 224 p.
4. Tashpulatov S. Sh., Nutfullaeva L. N., Cherunova I. V., Stefanova E. B. Substantiation of the dimensions of the reinforcement of the textile material surface with a collagen-containing polymer composition: Journal / International Journal of Experimental Education. 2015.- No. 11.- Part 3. M.- P. 451-452.
5. Alimukhamedova B. G., Tashpulatov S. Sh., Cherunova I. V. Investigation of the influence of chemical treatment on the tissues of sparse structures in the process of clothing production // In: Technical regulation: the basic basis of the quality of materials, goods and services [Electronic resource]: / Ed. V. T. Prokhorov (previous) [and others]; Institute of the sphere of services. and business (branch) DGTU, 2017.- P. 411-416.
6. Cherunova I. V., Tashpulatov S. Sh., Rikhsieva B. A., Nutfullaeva L. N., et al., Investigation of the influence of packet formation mechanisms on their physico-mechanical properties // In the book: Scientific technologies in the service ecology of human. Monograph. Under the general editorship Cherunova I. V. Novocherkassk, 2015.- P. 36-40.
7. Meteleva O. V., Veselov V. V. The role of chemistry in the processes of manufacturing garments // Russian Chemical Journal - Vol. 1. 2002.
8. Veselov V. V., Kolotilova G. V. Chemicalization of technological processes of sewing enterprises: Textbook.- Ivanovo: IGTA, 1999.
9. Terskaya L. A. Technology of nesting and sewing fur garments [Text]: Proc. allowance for students of higher educational institutions / L. A. Terskaya.- 2 nd ed., Sr.- M.: Publishing Center "Academy", 2005.- 272 p.
