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Section 12. Technical sciences
Section 12. Technical sciences
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.20534/ESR-17-1.2-182-183
Alimukhamedova Barno Gayratovna, Research associate-the competitor, Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry, E-mail: barno.professorov@mail.ru Tashpulatov Salih Shukurovich, doctor of technical sciences, professor, Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry, Kadirov Tulqin Djumaevich, doctor of technical sciences, professor, Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry,
Development technology of manufacturing clothes from fabrics with rarefied structures
Abstract: In article are considered results of research of physic mechanical and operational properties of the Uzbek national fabric adras. Influence of a polymeric composition on durability increase thread's connections in these fabrics of the rarefied structures for the purpose of increase in term of operation of products from them is studied.
Keywords: Sliding apart threads in seams, polymeric composition, breaking load, rigidity of seam, abr fabric, thread seam, rarefied structure, adras.
The quality of apparel and ability of their long exploitation depend on durability thread connections which quality cannot be definitely estimated. They depend on many factors. Quality indicators that have dominant importance quite often determined by materials features. One of these indicators is sliding apart thread in seams. Then, high durability of fabrics and seams do not guaranty reliability of the item, it can be destroyed in seams [1].
Sliding apart threads in fabric is characterized with displacement of one thread system to another thread system (a basis on a duck and a duck on a basis) under effecting of external forces. This kind of displacement is typical for number of fabrics at the exploitation made clothes from them. The sliding apart of threads can occur on the particular surfaces of the fabric, but frequently it happens near seams that connecting ulnar cut of sleeves, armhole with sleeves, middle cuts of back part, and half parts of skirt and trousers. This is explaining with that this kind of seams in the exploitation process experiencing substantial value offorces that mainly perpendicular directed to seams [2].
Sliding apart threads in fabric is presenting difficulty for the technological process of materials treatment. Appearance rarefied
sections in fabric as a result of sliding apart threads is a serious
defect of the fabric that characterizes irrationality of it's structure, because it is decreases it's durability and deteriorates appearance of the apparel. Thus, sliding apart causes necessity of introduction additional operations at clothing manufacture for fixing material structure and improvement resistance of seams. Improvement of durability indicators of thread connections in fabrics with rarefied structure allow to improve quality and increase exploitation time of items from these fabrics. Therefore, problem of objective and qualitative assessment of durability thread connections in fabrics with rarefied structures directed to improve items quality and elongation of exploitation time of items from them is very actual task and presents practical and theoretical interest. Analysis of existent
ways of fixing seams from sliding apart shows that from point of view the increasing of resistance are the ways of fixing with using adhesive gasket materials. This increases labor content of producing and require additional equipment and materials.
In manufacturing items from fabrics with high sliding apart
most often provided models with free silhouette and on fitted items avoid from using middle seam on back part etc. [3].
The formulated description of the process of manufacturing apparel with using collagen comprising materials was developed and complex of varieties of manufacturing formed collagen comprising apparel details was determined [4]. Also technology of application polymeric membrane in production of apparel was offered, and optimal conditions that supporting most durability of used adhesive joint was determined [5].
With the aim of supporting durability features of thread connections of apparel from fabrics with rarefied structures and increasing of exploitation time, promoting quality, decreasing labor content and materials consumption was developed technology of chemical stabilization and coating liquid-phase polymeric composition on connection seams of the apparel [6].
As the object of chemical technology was chosen protein collagen preparation that was derived from waste products of leather industry. For creation ofeffective polymeric collagen comprising compositions were used several kind of auxiliary chemical materials.
As is known fabrics with sharply discriminative thicknesses of threads of basis and duck have a great sliding apart. That is why new chemical technology was used for items from adras type abr fabrics that have a great sliding apart because of great discriminative thicknesses of basis and duck threads. Beside this, as analyzing of bibliography showed that physical-mechanical features of adrases were few studied. At the certification teaching and testing laboratory «CentexUZ» at TITLI were realized researches on physical-
Development technology of manufacturing clothes from fabrics with rarefied structures
mechanical and operational features of adrases and influence of polymeric composition to this features.
The requires to polymeric composition and conditions of it's coating consist of low viscosity, ecological safety, stability in long-term storage, resistance of fixing effect in the structure of textile material and conservation of coating topography in time of next technological operations. In accordance with requires to thread seams that have been treated with chemical compositions was created program and methodology of physical-chemical and mechanical features range research.
They are resistance to sliding apart, durability at tension, low rigidity, resistance to dry-cleaning, washing and ironing, air permeability, resistance of fixing effect in the structure of textile material, resistance to abrasion.
This quality features can be determined by existing standard methodology. Researches on physical-mechanical features were conducted on abr fabrics adras:
1-sample, composition silk threads on basis and cotton fiber on duck, surface density 141,8 g/m 2;
2-sample, composition silk threads on basis and cotton fiber on duck, surface density 140,4 g/m 2;
3-sample, composition silk threads on basis and cotton fiber on duck, surface density 137,8 g/m 2;
4-sample, composition cotton fiber on basis and cotton fiber on duck, surface density 131,4 g/m 2;
5-sample, composition cotton fiber on basis and cotton fiber on duck, surface density 166,3 g/m 2
Preresearches of physical-mechanical and operational features of adrases showed that the fabrics under consideration have high thread sliding apart. Especially it is very high on duck. But chemical technology supporting guarantied increasing of breaking load, resistance to abrasion, decrease of sliding apart in comparison with essential samples.
25 20 15 10 5 0
□ sample 1
■ sample 2
□ sample 3
□ sample 4
■ sample 5
Control sample Seam with adhesive Seam with polymer
gasket
Figure 1. Influence of fixing way to the resistance for sliding apart of threads in seams.
As analysis of results of experimental researches (histogram) showed, durability to sliding apart thread of abr fabrics in fixing seams by adhesive gasket in comparison to control sample that seam did not fixed is increasing on the average of 1,8 times, and breaking load of seam on 1,1 times. At the fixing of seam by polymeric composition resistance to sliding apart in comparison with control sample increased on 2,5 times and breaking load on 1,4 times.
Thereby at research, influence of the polymeric composition for resistance indicators ofthread seams shows that chemical technology fixing fabric structure and decreases sliding apart threads in a fabric. Derived technological effect is determined by increase of linkage fabric elements, degree of fixing fiber and threads in fabric structure. This shows the resistance and efficiency of the technological treatment that is more durable from the position of seams sliding apart.
References:
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