CC BY
8
Hodjaeva Kamola, doctoral student, Tashpulatov Salih Shukurovich, doctor of Technical Sciences, professor
Mansurova Munisa Anvarovna, candidate of technical sciences, associate professor, Murodov Tahir Bakhramovich, candidate of technical sciences, associate professor, Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry E-mail: [email protected]
PREREQUISITES OF IMPROVEMENT OF METHODS FOR ESTIMATING THE ADJUSTMENT OF TEXTILE MATERIALS AND DEVICES FOR THEIR IMPLEMENTATION
Abstract: This article analyzes the existing methods for assessing the movement of yarns of textile materials and devices that perform these indicators and suggests ways to improve the assessment methods one of the main indicators that determine the quality of textile materials.
Keywords. Textile materials, extendibility, fibers, structure, yarn, density, warp threads and weft.
The sliding of the threads depends on the kind of fiber, the structure of the yarn and fabric, the ratio of the thickness of the warp and weft threads and their density, the type of fabric finishing and other factors. In the tissues, as a rule, the warp threads along the weft threads are displaced. Therefore, we can assume that the displacement of the filaments occurs in the extreme phase of the structure of the tissue, that is, with a rectilinear arrangement of the weft. The ratio of the thickness of the warp threads and the weft affects the degree of expansion of the yarns in the fabric. It has been found that, the greater the difference in the thickness of the main and weft yarns, the more the fabric has the ability to spread.
Finishing operations, such as singing, cutting, and broadening, increase the isolation of threads in the fabric and increase the possibility of mutual displacement of filaments. Accretion and roll fixes the threads and reduces the mobility of the yarns in the fabric. Displacement of threads is mainly characteristic for silk fabrics, both artificial and synthetic. In tissues, the structure of which provides strong mutual cohesion and friction of the threads, the threads do not move. Studying the research of specialists of this process - the branching of threads in the tissues showed that the separation of the filaments occurs as a result of the combined effect of the tangential resistance between the threads and the stretching of the tissues.
Sliding of filaments occurs in the lateral seams, the seams of the darts, on the elbows, at the armhole arm, ie, in those areas where the tissue experiences, as was said before, the combined action of friction and stretching. Sliding reduces the appearance of the product and shortens the period of its wear. From fabrics subject to sliding, in order to avoid premature deterioration of products, it is not recommended to
make products that fit tightly around the figure. To reduce the spacing of filaments in the seams, the frequency of the stitch is increased, so that the frictional force between the yarns of the fabric increases and their ability to shift is reduced.
Based on this, the existing methods and devices for assessing the vulnerability of textile materials were analyzed.
In work [1] the device for measurement of parameters of a sliding of threads of textile materials is offered. This device can be used to determine the spread ability of yarns of textile materials. Devices for measuring the sliding properties of yarns of textile materials include fixed and conditionally movable clamps for fixing the sample to be examined, means for loading it in the form of a gear motor with a drive controlled by a processor through a microcontroller and a coupling unit, a movable carriage, a needle-bearing comb, a sample that includes optically active elements and a webcam associated with the processor, as well as means for measuring the amount of loading. The means for measuring the loading amount are made in the form of a strain-gauge measuring system of the diaphragm type, which is connected to the processor through a microcontroller and a coupling unit. The invention provides an increase in the reliability of the device and an increase in the accuracy of evaluating the parameters of the sliding properties of filaments, and also increases the service life (Fig. 1).
A device for measuring the sliding properties of yarns of textile materials, comprising a stationary and conditionally movable clamps for fixing a sample to be examined, means for loading it in the form of a drive motor driven by a processor via a microcontroller and a coupling unit, a movable carriage, a needle comb, sample strings containing optically active elements and a web camera connected to the processor,
PREREQUISITES OF IMPROVEMENT OF METHODS FOR ESTIMATING THE ADJUSTMENT OF TEXTILE MATERIALS AND DEVICES FOR THEIR IMPLEMENTATION
as well as means for measuring the loading amount, scheesya in that the load magnitude measuring means are in the form of a strain gauge diaphragm type measuring system connected to the processor through the interface unit and microcontroller.
Figure 1. Device for measuring the parameters of sliding of threads of textile materials
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Figure 2. Scheme of the method for estimating the an-isotropy of the sliding ability in the seams of garments
This device has not found wide application because of the complexity of operation and not the accuracy of the measurement.
There is a way to estimate the anisotropy of the sliding ability in the seams of garments [2].
The method for determining the anisotropy of the sliding ability of filaments in the seams oftextile materials includes preparation and marking of samples, fixation by clamping, loading, measurement of the slide and changing the linear dimensions of the sample. The sample is a "chamomile" formed by stitching 8 "petals" in the form of strips 50 * 110 mm, cut at different angles to the warp threads, onto a circular specimen with a diameter of 150 mm with marking in different directions after placement on a cylindrical crossbeam covered with a material (Fig. 2).
After suspension of the load to the clamp, the displacement of the filaments from the seam and the change in the linear dimensions are measured, and the anisotropy of the sliding ability and changes in linear dimensions, judging by the change in the sliding ability of the filaments in the seam and the change in linear dimensions as a function of the direction (a). The invention makes it possible to evaluate the spreadability of filaments in seams in various directions by cutting and gives information on changes in the linear dimensions of materials when sliding in the joints occurs.
Method for determining the anisotropy of the movement of filaments in the seams of textile materials, including the preparation and marking of samples, fixation by clamping, loading, measurement of the separation and changes in linear dimensions of the sample, characterized in that the sample is a "chamomile" formed by stitching 8 "petals" 50 * 100 mm, cut at different angles to the warp yarns, onto a circular sample with a diameter of 150 mm with marking in different directions (a), fixing the sample with a clamp is alternately for each direction after azmescheniya on a cylindrical bar, covered with pictures, after the hanging load to terminal measure the displacement of yarns from the seam and change in linear dimensions and anisotropy razdvigaemosti and changes in linear dimensions is judged by the change razdvigaemosti yarns in the seam and the change in linear dimensions depending on the direction (a). In this case, the marking of the round samples and the cutting out of rectangular samples are carried out in various versions that are typical for the direction of the seams in clothing, for example 0 o, 45 o, 90 o, 135 o, 180 o, 225 o, 270 o, 315 o or 15 o, 60 o, 105 o, 150 o, 195 o, 240 o, 285 o, 330 o or 30 o, 75 o, 110 o, 155 o, 200 o, 245 o, 290 o, 335 o to the longitudinal direction of the material, the load is 9 daN and corresponds to the maximum operational load in the clothing, and the loading time is 30 minutes.
This method and the device also does not differ in accuracy and does not correspond to the actual operating conditions of garments.
A device was also proposed for assessing the movement of yarns of textile materials [3].
This device can be used to determine the spreadability of yarns of textile materials. The apparatus for assessing the movement of threads of textile materials comprises means for fixing the sample to be examined, means for loading the sample to be examined, in the form of a geared motor load, a measuring means for loading and moving the threads, and a processor that is connected to a geared motor via a microcontroller and a coupling unit. The measuring means for loading
and moving the threads comprise a movable carriage with a needle comb and are provided with optically active elements and a web camera installed to read load values and transfer the threads and transfer them to the processor. The invention provides a structural simplification of the measurement system, while increasing the accuracy of the evaluation of the separation of threads of textile materials (Fig. 3).
Figure 3. Device for assessing the movement of threads of textile materials
A device for evaluating the spreadability of yarns of textile materials, comprising means for fixing and loading the test sample, measuring means for loading and moving the threads, characterized in that it is provided with a processor, and as a loading means comprises a motor-reducer configured to control the loading amount, wherein means for measuring the magnitude of loading and movement of the threads comprise a movable carriage with a needle comb and are provided with optically active elements and a web camera, ennymi to read the values of the loading and moving filaments and transferring them to a processor and which, via the microcontroller interface unit associated with the motor-reducer.
The proposed in this work also does not provide the accuracy of measuring the sliding ability of threads in textile materials and does not differ from previous works by the accuracy of measurements.
References:
1. Patent of the Russian Federation No. 2552317. Device for measuring the parameters of the sliding ability of yarns of textile materials. Zheleznyakov A. S.
2. Sheromova I. A., Starkova G. P. Published: 06/10/2015 Boul. - No. 16.
3. The patent of the Russian Federation No. 2310846. A method for estimating the anisotropy of the sliding ability of filaments in seams. Smirnova N. A., Khokhlova E. E., Kolmogorova T. A. Published on: 20.11.2007 Bul.- No. 32.
4. Patent of the Russian Federation No. 2519028. Devices for assessing the movement of threads of textile materials. Zheleznyakov A. S., Sheromova I. A., Starkova G. P., Pestsova A. A. Published: 06/10/2014 Boul.- No. 16.
Thus, based on the foregoing, it can be concluded that the proposed methods and devices do not provide the required accuracy and ease of operation, which is why they are not widely used. The proposed method and device due to the use of computer technology and a high-precision device will ensure an increase in reliability of the device and an increase in the accuracy of evaluating the parameters of the sliding properties of threads, and also increases the service life, allow us to evaluate the spreadability of filaments in seams in various cutting directions and provides information on the variation of linear dimensions of materials with the occurrence of sliding in the seams, provides a structural simplification of the measurement system, while increasing the accuracy awns evaluation razdvigaemosti filaments of textile materials.
