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Sabirova Ziyoda, associate professor, Tashkent institute of textile and light industry, E-mail: [email protected].
Tashpulatov Salih, doctor of technical sciences, professor, Tashkent institute of textile and light industry, E-mail: [email protected].
Cherunova Irina, doctor of technical sciences, professor, Institute of Service and Entrepreneurship (branch) of Don State Technical University, E-mail: [email protected]
QUESTIONS OF EDUCATION AND STRENGTHENING OF THE VOLUME FORM WHILE MANUFACTURING THE INTEGRATED FUR ARTICLES WITH CONTENT OF POLYMER COMPOSITION
Abstract: The article presents the results of analytical studies of the issues of forming and use of polymer compositions, providing the given form stability and reliability, meeting the modern requirements of industrial production, the efficiency of their use in production conditions. In this case, the processing of seamless parts of garments made from textile materials and all-molded articles made from natural fur, followed by obtaining the desired shape by using the deformation properties of natural raw materials.As a result of the conducted analysis of the research recommendations were given on the use for the reinforcement of all-molded parts of the product using a polymer composition, which makes it possible to improve the quality and form-stability of clothing components and the economic efficiency of production.
Keywords: polymer compositions, deformation properties, shape stability, natural fur, whole-molded products, relaxation, reliability of results, resource-saving.
Introduction: Modern methods of shaping and form- textile materials, it is established that the dependence of the fixing presuppose the use of methods of targeted influence due molding capacity of tissues on the characteristics of the rapto changes in the properties of the location of the yarns relative port, the diameter of the threads, the cohesion coefficient, etc. to each other and of the fabrics in the course of technological Objects and methods of research: We consider the processing of articles, fixing deformations with the help of a hot- change in the structure and dimensions of textile materials melt cushioning material, also using as a form-fastening gasket with different methods of molding.
for reinforcing the polymer composition on the surface of the A classification that distinguishes five ways of shaping the
semi-finished product details of the product [1-3]. parts of an article (stretching, bending, compressing materials
Quality and durability of garments during operation are across the thickness, forced shrinkage and changing the angles
largely determined by the ability of textile and other materials between the yarns of the fabric) is incomplete in the applica-
to form and form fixation.The method of obtaining the three- tion to the production of garments. Depending on the equip-
dimensional form of garments and the method of shaping in ment used, the molding of parts and the final wet-heat treat-
each specific case are determined individually and depend on ment (WHT) of products can be carried out in the following
the properties of the initial materials: the fibrous composition, ways: ironing, pressing, steaming on a steam-air manikin.
the structural characteristics of the material, the structure and The type of deformation of the material determines the
the method of production of the constituent filaments, as well type of molding, and not the method, respectively. Depending
as the relief surface, density and thickness.It is established [4- on the method of obtaining the development of parts of cloth-
7] that the main indicator of molding properties of materials ing in the molding process, various tasks are solving. In the
is their ability to change the network angle of filaments or case when the deformations necessary to obtain a given shape
conditional geometric parameters. As a result of studies of are embedded in the design, the main thing is the fixation of
Section 15. Technical science
the form, and in another case - the creation of the form due to the forced deformation of the fabric (tutuying and pulling) and fixing it with the help of the WHT.
Results and discussion: Textile material is elongated due to straightening, and then at more significant loads - due to stretching of threads.The threads of the perpendicular system receive a bend, as a result, in this direction the material narrows, i.e. there is a decrease in its transverse dimensions. Thisistypicalforalltextilematerials. Thedimensionsinthemid-dleofthematerialdecreasemostsignificantly.This property of materials is evaluated by the coefficient of transverse reduction K, which is defined as the ratio of the relative contraction of the tissue to its relative elongation.
The coefficient of transverse contraction increases with increasing elongations depending on the direction of stretching.
When stretched in the direction of the warp or weft, the transverse contraction is explained by the straightening and elongation of the stretchable yarns, and by the increase in the bending of the arranged yarns transversely to them.
When the fabric is stretched in different directions, its overall elongation is due to straightening of the filaments, their elongation as a result of the movement and stretching of the fibers, and also due to a change in the angle between the warp and weft threads.
The mechanism of changing the linear dimensions of textile materials when bent and at an angle to the filaments is similar to the mechanism when it is stretched, but the change in linear dimensions occurs more intensively due to shrinkage of the filaments. When the fabric is stretched in the direction of the yarn, shrinkage reaches its maximum value, as a result of which the shortening of the tissue in this direction is greatest. Just as with stretching, the largest reduction in the size of the tissue when tuturation is achieved along the diagonal of the tissue cell, i.e. when the ability of the fabric to change the angle between the threads is fully utilized.
The largest change in dimensions in textile materials (elongation, contraction) occurs with a change in the angle between the filaments, which is practically used in the shaping of whole-cut and all-formed parts of garments. Therefore, the ability ofthe fabric to vary the angle between the warp threads and the weft is identified as the main molding property of textile materials.
WHT processes are mainly carried out with the help of presses and steam irons. When pressing on the semi-finished product, the top and bottom cushions of the ironing press operate simultaneously. The required temperature regime is usually provided by the upper cushion. Great importance in the pressing process is played by moisture in the form of steam, which is a heat carrier and a kind of plasticizer, contributes to the intensification of WHT processes and is therefore widely used in the processing of garments. Under the influence of
heat and moisture, the process of transferring fibers to a highly elastic state occurs, and in this form the fabric is deformed at a certain pressure, and the technological effect achieved is fixed by subsequent drying and cooling, which ensures the duration of preservation of the shape attached to the product [1, 2, 7].
It is known that the WHT process is a complex of thermo-physical processes (heat transfer, moistening, shaping, pressure, drying) that occur over a period of time in textile materials or a bag of clothing with simultaneous thermal, moisture and mechanical effects used to obtain a stable deformation in the parts of the product. However, studies indicate a lack of WHT to obtain sustainable forms. This is evidenced by the practice - when you wear clothes over time, the relaxation process proceeds, and part of the fixed deformation disappears.
The methods proposed to stabilize the forms attached to the details of clothing are based on the use of fundamentally different possibilities. To obtain stable deformations, an intervention is undertaken in the molecular structure of the fiber, or a "rough" structure of the tissue and filaments is fixed. Such treatments are always additional and duplicate WHT, which in this case plays a major role in shaping [8-10].
The fastening of the "rough" structure of the material is realized by the technological method of increasing the form stability. The technological method consists in introducing additional technological operations in the manufacture of products. In the practice of garment production, fixing deformations of the formed fabric by gluing the edges, fixing the shape with the help of various reinforcing adhesive grommets is applied. When using adhesive glues with adhesive coating, the material stiffness increases, which is highly undesirable in some parts of clothing items, for example, shelf, sides, collars. However, with this method of fixing deformations of textile materials, their ability to deform significantly decreases, which on most parts of clothing is unacceptable from the point of view of ease in wearing, for example, the details of the sleeves, the back.
The process of fixation of the "fine" structure of the material consists of the destruction of old intermolecular bonds, deformation and displacements of macromolecules in accordance with deformation of the material, filaments, fibers, restoration or creation of new bonds between macromolecules in their new position.
The method of surface stabilization of linear dimensions and shapes of parts of garments is based on the use of hot-melt reinforcing materials without a textile carrier - polymer nets. The structure of the hot-melt reinforcing material is fundamentally different from the current range and determines its multifunctionality. The stabilization effect is achieved when the parts are duplicated with a polymer mesh, and the duplication can be performed front-to-back or simultaneously with the process of forming the parts.
Conclusions: Thus, for products made of leather and fur, it is promising to use collagen-containing polymer compositions (CMC), which in liquid-phase consistency can be applied to a semi-finished product of a complex spatial form. The process of obtaining CMC begins with the chemical treatment and decontamination of the waste of leather production [11-15]. From the fibrous collagen mass, tanning agents and plasticizers, a molding mixture is prepared. The plasticity necessary for molding is provided by the introduc-
tion of water. From the mixture, volume or flat parts with a given configuration are formed. Features CMC make it possible to form details of clothing with specified properties. Depending on the requirements for details of clothing, the properties of CMC can be varied by changing the composition of the mixture or the molding parameters. In this regard, the boundaries of the design of clothing components are widened, material and labor costs are reduced.
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