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25FEATURES OF WEAVING ATLAS AND ADRAS FABRICS
Ismoilova A.H.,
1st year master's student
Namangan institute of engineering and technology, faculty of light industry
Uzbekistan, Namangan city, Kasansay street, 7
Khojiyev A.
candidate of technical sciences, associate professor Namangan institute of engineering and technology, faculty of light industry
Uzbekistan, Namangan city, Kasansay street, 7
Abstract
The purpose of the article is to acquaint the public with the technology of making satin and adras fabrics, which are products of ancient crafts. The sequence of production of these fabrics at the factory "Yodgorlik" describes the process from the separation of silk from cocoons to the formation of the finished fabric. The secrets of the old masters are still preserved here, and most of the work is done by hand. This is why the fabric comes out in a truly unique pattern, making it very difficult to replicate the same patterns.
Keywords: atlas, adras, silk, handicrafts, Margilan, factory, round shop, abrband, weaving.
Atlas and adras fabrics are the products of Uzbek silk art and have a long history. [1,2,3] Margilan has long been a world-famous city with its craftsmen, satin and adras natural fabrics. There are still various craft centers in Margilan. One of them is the Yodgorlik factory. The Memorial Factory was founded in 1972 and continues the ancient tradition. The secrets of the old masters are still preserved here, and most of the work is done by hand. This is why the fabric comes out in a truly unique pattern, making it very difficult to replicate the same patterns. About 400 specialists work here,
weaving up to 6 kilometers of fabric a month. At present, carpets made mainly of silk fabrics, cotton blends and silk wool products are also exported.
The souvenir factory has agreements with many countries in Russia, Turkey, Europe and the United States, and exports its products to these countries.
At the Memorial Factory, the fabric undergoes various processes before it is ready, there are 11 main processes, which are as follows:
1- Process silk is separated from the cocoon. This process is carried out using a hand wheel, followed by a spinning process with a cotton thread. In this case the yarns are prepared. Fig. 1.
Pic. 1. The process of removing silk from a cocoon using a hand wheel
Process 2 is called the "Circle" where the finished yarn is libita, i.e. the length of the fabric is determined and determined, Pic. 2.
The process 3 is called Qad. In this process, the thread is fixed on the fabric.
Pic. 2. The process of libitation of finished yarns
Process 4 means "Abirband", which means "connecting the cloud". In this process, the master draws a pattern on the threads.
Process 5 - Dyeing, in which the fabric is dyed. This work is carried out in the boiler room. Two different colors are used for painting. Natural and artificial colors. 90% colors are natural and 10% artificial colors are used. Artificial colors are imported from India and Turkey. natural colors are obtained from walnuts, onions, pomegranates, and peels. Peanuts, pomegranates and onions are boiled in special pots to create color.
Process 6 is called Discovery. This removes the connected lengths. The shape of the fabric is formed. It shows what kind of flower is embroidered.
Process 7 is called Gulavardor. In the process, the yarn is prepared for knitting. That is, satin and adras yarns are divided according to their weaving. In this case, the number of silks is considered. For example: 2 strokes, 4 strokes, 8 strokes, Pic. 3.
Pic. 3. The process of preparing yarn for knitting
8- The process is called "Tig". This process is used to determine the size of single and double fabrics on the blade.
Process 9 "Knitting", in which the fabric is woven with the help of weavers, Pic. 4.
Satin weaving is used in the 8-step weaving
method of satin. The 4-step weaving method uses a type \ ■
of weaving. In the 2-step knitting method, the back and front are woven in the same canvas.
Silk and thread are used in the weaving of the adras. Silk is mainly used in the body, yarn is used in the back, and there is also a type of adras made of 100% cotton.
Silk is made from a mixture of yarn and silk.
Pic. 4. Knitting process Pic. 5. Samples offinished products
10-The process is finishing, in which the finished fabric is cleaned of threads.
11- The process of preparing the finished product for sale. The labels of the Yodgorlik factory will be affixed. Figure 5 shows samples from the finished products.
Atlas and adras go through these stages and become a finished product and reach the hands of consumers.
The patterns applied to these fabrics are also important. The origin of these patterns is derived from nature and reflects its beauty. If you look closely at the patterns on the silk, you can see the symbolic shapes of flowers, trees, and birds. In addition, the fabric is polished with geometric shapes. Each pattern has its own meaning. For example, a copy of pepper is a symbol of optimism, a pomegranate is a symbol of family, the sun is a symbol of warmth, flowers are a symbol of nature.
The fact that the patterns on satin and adras fabrics are not the same is another important aspect of creativity.
The "Souvenir" factory sells a wide range of fabrics for women, including dresses, shirts, coats, scarves, shawls, skullcaps. All products are sold to customers in the "Memorial" store. The price is a bit expensive, but each process is done by hand, the quality is excellent, the patterns are not repeated.
It attracts tourists from all over the world at any time of the year. During the tour, each tourist can receive news and souvenirs that reflect the national spirit. Most importantly, he discovers a new world of colors. The "Memorial" factory is always open to the public and foreign tourists, who can easily find answers to their questions. Most importantly, they can enjoy the creation of satin and adras fabrics. It is commendable that such beauties are man-made.
With the help of this article, we learned about the weaving and composition of various satin and adras fabrics. In the process, we found that satin, adras fabrics are also very comfortable for pregnant women. The fact that the fabric is well breathable and the base of color is made of 100% natural fibers is very important during pregnancy. The use of national fabrics for pregnant women is one of the current problems. We would like to suggest developing a pregnant women's shirt that has a national spirit in the study process. Today, many women want to make clothes from national fabrics in accordance with modern styles. The aim is for women to use and promote more national and modern clothing. At the same time, it is to continue the Uzbek national values and pass them on to future generations.
References
1. National encyclopedia of Uzbekistan. -T.: State Scientific Publishing House, 2006. -P. 605.
2. A.Xakimov. The flowering season of Uzbek silk. -T.: Islam Karimov Foundation Publishing House, 2017. -P. 156.
3. Abdullah Qadiri. The last days. -T.: Publishing house of fiction, 1958. -P. 371.
4. Buzov B.A., Modestova T.A., Alymenkova N.D. Material production of shveynogo production. -M .: Legprombytizdat, 1986.- P. 424.
5. Jabborova M.Sh. Sewing technology. T.: Uzbekistan, 1994. -P. 415.
6. M. K. Rasulova. Technology of sewing production. Light industry profession a textbook for college students. T.: Turon-Iqbol, 2006. -P. 176.
7. Petrunina V.G., Babadjanova M.A. Metodicheskoe ukazanie po vbipolneniyu laboratornyx rabot po kursu Ximizatsiya tehnologicheskix protsessov proizvodstva izdeliy legkoy promtishlen-nosti. T.: TTESI. -P. 28.
