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Designing clothing fabrics with defined porous
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.20534/ESR-17-3.4-105-106
Ortikov Oybek, Tashkent institute of textile and light industry, research associate - the competitor E-mail: oybek.ortikov1984@mail.ru
Designing clothing fabrics with defined porous
Abstract: The article is dedicated to the design of clothing fabrics with a given porosity and the study of cloth structure parameters.
Keywords: yarn, fabric, runner length, weft, warp, armure, density, rapport.
The clothes serve for regulation heat irradiation bodies of the person, creating round an organism the artificial, adjustable temperature environment rather independent ofdirect influences of environment. Besides the clothes protect an organism from mechanical damages and by that promote health preservation. The clothes is produced mainly from fabrics. Hygienic properties of fabrics depend on properties of an initial material (fibre) and technics of manufacturing of fabrics. Identical results can be received from silk, wool, cotton and flax if to develop them so that they had identical hygienic properties, designing of fabrics on their set properties therefore is expedient.An estimation of properties spend by means of such indicators, as rapport weave on a weft and a warp, number of crossings of threads of one system other system,runner threads, thickness, weight, relative density, porosity and air permeability of fabrics.
For designing cloth fabricswe are set by porosity of fabric RS, an weave, a phase of a structure of a fabric, filling factor on a warp or on a weft, linear density of a yarn on a warp and on a weft, factor of a parity of density or diameters of threads, factor of change of the sizes of threads in a fabric [1; 2]. Calculation was spent in the following sequence under following formulas.
Define settlement diameter of a thread before weaving
weft
L = l
' ^ Tweft 1
T « + T t d d = 0,0316CJ^-f
mid ' ^
Define fabric density on a warp
100(Kd+i)KHwarp
Р p=-
warp
t k/4-K
(i)
(2)
hwarp
d mid d n warpg weftg ^
The fabric density on a duck expresses through the greatest possible density on a weft and unknown factor of filling of a fabric a fibrous material
P = P •K
weft weft max Нweft
100(Kd + 1)K
Hweft
d mid (Kd n warpg weftg )a/4 K
(3)
warpg ' I weftg '
The coefficient of a fabric on a weft a fibrous material define from a parity of porosity of a fabric
R = 100 - d -P p —d gP t +0,01d -d gP p -P t (4)
s warpg warp weftg weft ' warpg weftg warp weft
Where : d „= d -n „„ , d . = d
warpg warp I warpg weftg w
Runnerlength in a fabric on a warp
L p-LT rp
a ...-Twp• 100%
'eft n weftg
L
(5)
p=4i
>eftf +h warp d
h =-
L Twarp = iff = 100/Pw
p+d ftv warpv weftv
K
hwarp
Runnerlength in a fabric on a weft
a weft
Lwf LTweft • 100%
L weft
(6)
h weft =
+h weft
mid ^ I warpv weftv
f = 100/P p ;
rpf warp
2
K
hweft
The purpose is given, to design a fabric porosityR s = 38 ± 1 in linear density on a basis and on a duckT wapp = 25x2, T wfft = 45tack, factorof yarn C=1,25, factor of the relation of diameters of threads of a basis and a duck before weaving K d = 1J, a fabric interlacing on fig. 1, on technical requirements a fabric ofVI order of a phase of a structure, i.e. a fabric in the big density on a basis both K, = 1,2
' o / hwarp '
and Khmft = 0,8; KHmrp = 0,85, factor of change of diameters of threads
in a falKic n warpg = U , n weftg = 1,1, n warpv = 0,8 , V wftv = 0,8 . Sub"
stitution of this data in formulas 1-6 allows to define parametres of a structure of a fabric such, as fabric density on warp Pwarf = 246th/ dm, fabric density on weft Pmjt = 150 th/dm, factor of filling of a fabric on weft KH weft = 0,73,runner length on a warp awap = 6,9 %, on a weft a = 8,1 %.
weft '
Designed cloth the fabric has been developed on the weaving loom of firm «CoMet» with rapport weave on warp R =12 and
L L L warp
on weft Rwft= 12, number fine in refuelling 12, number reed N = 60 tooth/dm., number ofthreads scolded in tooth reed - 4 threads, density on a warp of250 n/dm. And on a weft of150 th/dm., linear density ofthe warp threads 25x2 tack, linear density weft threads 45 tack.
On fig. 1 4 variants armure , considering rapport weave on a warp and a weft, number of crossings of threads of one system another twarpmid, tweftmid
Figures 1.
Section 9. Technical sciences
In the tablevalues runner length are presented, to porosity and air table analysis (variants of 1 and 2 samples offabrics) shows that at invari-permeability of samples of fabrics which are defined by a known tech- able identical rapport to a fabric and identical crossings ofthreads (fig. 1 nique. An error of the received values there were in limits of 5 %. The and fig. 2), average runner length threads ofa warp and a weft unequal.
Table 1. - Values runner length, porosity and air permeability of samples of fabrics
№ Variantsof the developed: Samples-Fabrics Showings of properties
Runner length on a warp in a fabric Runner length on a weft in a fabric Porosityof a fabric Air permeability of a fabric
1 I 6,0 7,0 38 32
2 II 4,2 5,3 53 99
3 III 5,5 6,5 35 30
4 IV 4,5 5,5 47 90
Figures 2.
For a variant 1 (fig. 1) - at R = R „
^ o / warp weft
n = 2, t 3 = t „3 = 2 of n = 2, t 6 = t
warp weft
12, t 1 = t . 1 = 2 at
' warp weft
,6 = !
warp 'weft
tweft 5 = 10 at n = 2 average runner length on a warp awarp = 6,0 %, on a weft aweft = 7,0 %.
For a variant 2 (fig. 2), t 1 = t „
warp weft
tweft 6 = 12 at n = 6 average runner length on a warp a a weft aweft = 5,3 %.
Apparently the number of crossings in rapport is identical, however in the second case of crossing have extreme value t 1 = t „1
warp weft
and t 6 = t „6, and in the first case averages value t 4 = t „4
warp weft warp weft
and t 5 = t „5 in the range from t1to t6that leads to decrease in
warp weft
values average runner length on a warp on 30 % and on a weft on 24 %. Besides from the table (variants of 1-4 samples of fabrics) that reduction of number of crossings of threads in limits rapport leads to decrease runner length threads of a warp and a weft in a fabric, to increase in porosity of a fabric and as consequence increase ofvalues
at n = 6, t 5 :
warp
1 = 2 , at n = 6 and , t 6 =
warp
4,2 %, on
of air permeability clothes follows. Therefore use of the second variant of the sample for clothes fabrics is expedient.
Conclusions
1. The designing technique clothes fabrics on the set porosity where calculations of diameters of threads before weaving, fabric density, factor of filling of a fabric by a fibrous material, geometrical density of a fabric, height of waves of a bend of threads in a fabric, runner length in a fabric are resulted is developed.
2. Researches of samples clothes fabrics are developed and conducted. In all variants reduction of number of crossings in limits rapport leads to decrease runner length of a warp and a weft in a fabric. At identical rapportweave of a fabric and at reduction of number of crossings of threads of one system by other system porosity increases. With increase in porosity of a fabricair permeability clothes fabric raises.Use of the second variant of the sample for clothes fabrics is expedient.
References:
1. Rahimxodjaev S.S., KadirovaD.N.Modern methods of designing of fabrics. TITLI, - Tashkent, - 2006.
2. Rahimxodjaev S.S., etc. Analytical researches runner length of clothes fabrics armure // Problems Textile. - 2007, - No. 1, - P. 54-59.
