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9«ШУШ(ШШиМ-Ши©Ма1> 2022 / ART
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Asya Shiraliyeva, degree candidate, Azerbaijan State University of Culture and Arts DOI: 10.24412/2520-6990-2022-9132-9-12 THE WORLD'S ART TRENDS IN THE TRADITIONAL JEWELRY OF BAKU
Ася Ширалиева
Кандидат искусствоведения Азербайджанский Государственный Университет
Культуры и Искусства
ТЕНДЕНЦИИ МИРОВОГО ИСКУССТВА В ТРАДИЦИОННЫХ ЮВЕЛИРНЫХ ИЗДЕЛИЯХ
БАКУ
Abstract.
The paper overviews the creative work of the Baku jeweler Vugar Khudaverdiyev. It provides the detailed information about his pieces of jewelry made both in traditional and religious, modern, ethno-modern, and Cubist styles. An analysis of technical methods and elements of patterns typical of Baku is also given. The article also touches upon the world's art trends.
Аннотация.
Статья посвящена творчеству бакинского ювелира Вугара Худавердиева. В статье дается подробная информация о его украшениях, выполненных как в традиционном, так и в религиозном, модернистском, этномодернистском и кубистическом стилях. Также дан анализ технических приемов и элементов, узоров, характерных для Баку. В статье также затрагиваются мировые художественные тенденции.
Key words: jeweler's art, granulation, enamel, filigree, niello, stamping
Ключевые слова: ювелирное искусство, зернь, эмаль, скань, чернь, чеканка.
Vugar Khudaverdiyev is one of the Baku jewelers who apply Azerbaijan traditional and religious styles, as well as modernism and abstract Cubism in their works.
Vugar Khudaverdiev was born on July 24, 1976, the Mashtaga settlement of Baku, to the family of a local jeweler. In 1983-1993, he attended the No. 187 public school of Baku's Sabunchi district, and in 19921996 a special class at the workshop conducted by the Mashtaga jeweler Vahid Seyidov. Vugar Khudaverdiev was also influenced by his own jewelry-making family from his early youth. In the senior high school, he learned the secrets of jewelry art and worked hard to master it. Since 1994, he began to independently be engaged in jewelry art.
Vugar Khudaverdiyev's great love for jeweler's art led him to the Azerbaijani State University of Culture and Art he entered in 1998. After the establishment of the Azerbaijani State Academy of Arts in 2001, the university's faculty of arts was attached to the Academy. In 2002, he graduated from the Faculty of Architecture and Design, the Azerbaijani State Academy of Arts, with a degree in Metal Art. In 20092014, he led courses on jewelry-making at the Faculty of Natural Sciences, Arts and High Technologies, the
Khazar University. The designer willingly taught his students all the stages of the art of jewelry and paid attention to developing them as designers. He believes that the art of jewelry helps students to develop their knowledge in history, aesthetics, ethnography, etc.
Vugar Khudaverdiyev is an art restorer at the Azerbaijani National Museum of History since 2015, and a member of ABAD (Easy Support for Family Business) public agency since 2015.
Works by Vugar Khudaverdiev were exhibited in Azerbaijan and abroad. His creativity was covered in many publications of mass-media, and the "Mir" International TV Company made a docudrama about him.
Applying simple and complicated methods, the designer is making very beautiful jewelry items from various metals: gold, platinum, silver, cupronickel, brass, copper, etc. His works are distinguished with their original shapes and content, demonstrating most often local elements.
One of the jeweler's most interesting works is the "Maiden's Tower" silver ring designed to be shown at an exhibition in the BP Center during the Olympics in Athens, May, 2004.
Pic.1."Maiden Tower" ring. Silver. Casting. 2004
A documentary movie about the exhibition was shot in March. The jewelry made in a modern style won the first place at the exhibition.
"Gaval" (tambourine) made in 2003 with using
silver, cow pericardium, and walnut wood is one of
Vugar Khudaverdiev's main works. The work has the size of a porcelain bowl and was made with using filigree and casting techniques.
Pic.2. "Qaval" tambourine. Silver, cow pericardium, walnut wood, diamond. Filigree. 2003.
The designer connected the heads and the tails of three birds located along the edge of the drum, and placed seven diamonds in the spaces between them and at the ends of the tails. This jewelry of high artistic value is currently kept in the personal collection of Alim Gasimov, famous Azerbaijani mugham singer.
One of Vugar Khudaverdiev's most striking works is the "Jazz" silver pendant made in the style of Abstract Cubism in 2004. Cubism is a modernist
movement that emerged in the early twentieth century in fine arts, especially painting, and interpreted objects as geometric figures. This oval piece of jewelry with intersecting details was made with using enamel and casting techniques. The jeweler borrowed the intersecting details from "Algerian Women" by Pablo Picasso, Spanish painter, sculptor, graphic artist, ceramist, jeweler, and costume designer who advocated Cubism Surrealism and Post-impressionism
Pic.3.
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The "Alachik" silver pendant in filigree technique was made in 2005 with using the template by Tamilla Abdullayeva, senior lecturer at the Faculty of Arts, the Department of Design and Decorative and Applied Arts at the Azerbaijani State University of Culture and Arts. The overall shape of the pendant resembles the top of a nomadic tent (alachik). In the center of the pendant, there is a dark blue corundum stone. Currently, this work is owned by a foreign jazzman.
The designer also used religious motifs in his works. The silver pendant (2010) called "Temple" is made in the technique of casting and filigree. The
center of the necklace demonstrates a large carnelian symbolizing the sun. The stone is surrounded with triangular elements, and the lower part is surrounded with a cartouche element. Granulation is fixed inside the cartouche and the triangular elements. Four pendants in the lower part mean the servants of the temple. Elongated small elements at the top and the bottom of the stone give it the appearance of triangle as a whole. The designer believes that the triangle is of magic power. Currently, this work is kept in a private collection.
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Pic.4. "Temple"pendant Silver, agate. Casting. 2010
The triangular earrings with an oval bottom created in 2010 also demonstrate the high craftsmanship. These simple-looking earrings borrowing Turkish motifs are called "Tarakem". The master first flattened silver to make a sheet of 0.5 mm thick, and then fixed granulation to it. The earrings are made with soldering and casting. Almond-shaped details hanging from the lower part of the earrings are decorated with granulation. Currently, this work is also kept in a private collection.
The "Sufi" bracelet made in 2010 is also notable for its high artistic value. Sufism was a religious mystical practice of Islam in the Middle Ages. This practice historically went a long way of development in Azerbaijan. A piece of nacre in the center of the bracelet symbolizes strength, courage, prosperity and purity. It is believed that the energy of mother-of-pearl creates peace and comfort in the human body [2]. The stone is surrounded with white enamel. Currently, this work of art is kept in a private collection in Ukraine.
Vugar Khudaverdiev was also inspired by the creativity of two prominent Azerbaijani painters - Tahir Salakhov, former vice-president of the Russian Academy of Arts, and Farhad Khalilov, chairman of the
Union of Artists of Azerbaijan, honorary member of the Russian Academy of Arts. In his work of 2012 called "The Pen and The Stand", the jeweler applied Absheron motifs represented in the works by both the painters. The top of the pen is shaped like a palette, while the bottom is shaped like a root of tree. This very professionally made piece of jewelry resembles a winter tree with bare branches in the Absheron gardens. The jewelry is made with using the techniques of niello (imitation) and casting. Aquamarine, quartz, amethyst, topaz and zircon stones are used in the decoration of the pen. Currently, the work is stored at the museum of the Khazar University.
Along with traditional jewelry, Vugar Khudaverdiev's works made in modern trends also deserve attention.
One of the designer's significant works is the ring "The City of Vagif" (2011). The ring made of silver with using casting technique enlivens motifs and building of Baku's Old City, and the upper part of the ring resembles the silhouette of Vagif Mustafazadeh, Azerbaijani composer, pianist, inventor of the jazz-mugham musical genre. Currently, this work of art is owned by the painter Gunduz Gabibov.
Pic.5.City of Vagif' ring. Silver. Modeling technique. 2011
The pendant "Islimi" resembling a clay jug was made by Vugar Khudaverdiev in 2011. The center of the pendant demonstrates a red agate. The item is made with applying the islimi-motif, one of the main elements in the arts and crafts of Azerbaijan. There is the variety of the motif - simple, winged, crossed, butah-like and plaited ones. In this work, the master highly inventively applied motifs of plaited, crossed, and butah-shaped islimi. The edges of the pendant are decorated with granulation. Granulation is also located around the agate stone and in the free space. The item is made of silver with filigree technique.
The silver pendant of avant-garde style made in 2012 is also one of the most interesting works. A large amber stone resembling a rock is attached to the butah element at the top. The lower part is hung from another relatively larger butah element. In the piece of jewelry, the master reveals the philosophy of butah through his vision of this motif. The "butah" motif and its numerous varieties were used as one of the main elements in all types of Azerbaijani arts and crafts, including jewelry. The pendant is made by casting
technique. At present, this item is owned by Shahla Askerova, embroidering designer.
Vugar Khudaverdiev's another interesting work is a pendant in ethno-modern style (2014). The petals of the 4-piece pendant are made of cupronickel with black enamel (imitation), while the symbols on the petals are of brass. These symbols show samples of the Orkhon-Yenisey alphabet (ancient Turkic letters used in the 8th-10th cc.), as well as totem symbols of the Oghuz Turks.
The pendant "Shaman" designed in an avant-garde geometric style was made in 2017. In the rock drawings of Gobustan (Azerbaijan), there are various ancient anthropomorphic representations associated with local shamanistic beliefs in zoomorphism and ongon (totemism). The drawings were depicted on rocks for performing religious rituals. The pendant also features five "eye" images. This enameled item made of cupronickel resembles a carpet design. The enamel is made in red, green, blue and yellow colors. The shape of the pendant is based on the "eye" motif encountered in the works by Pablo Picasso. The pendant embodies the idea of Cubism in the Turkic style, shaman
Pic.6. "Shaman"pendant. Cupronickel. Enamel. 2017
One of the interesting pieces of jewelry created by Vugar Khudaverdiev is a pendant called "The Sun" (2018). The master made this work following samples of the Bronze Age decorations found out during archaeological excavations in Azerbaijan. The piece features circular lines symbolizing fertility, while wavy elements protruding along the edge of the pendant resemble the sun's rays.
The "Piyalazanq" silver earrings in which the author applied national floral ornaments and niello (imitation) were made in 2018. The jeweler borrowed the elements ofthese earrings from traditional woman's belts of Azerbaijan.
At present, Vugar Khudaverdiev continues his work in creating pieces of jewelry that meet requirements of both traditional decoration and modern art trends.
Bibliography
1. Yaqub Babayev. "Tariqat ôdabiyyati: Sufizm, Hürufizm". Baki. 2007. Sah 8.
2. https ://www. hurriyet. com.tr/mahmure/sedef-tasi-nedir-nerelerde-ve-nasil-bulunur-sedef-tasi-nasil-anlasilir-ozellikleri-ve-faydalari-41584769
3. irada Avçarova. Qobustan Tasvirlarinda Çamanizm Œamatlari. Elm va innovativ Texnologiyalar Jurnali. №5. 2018. Sah 27.
