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UDC911
DOI: 10.24412/1995-0411-2021-4-124-131
Svetlana R. KHUSNUTDINOVA
Kazan Federal University (Kazan, Rep. of Tatarstan, Russia) PhD in Geography, Associate Professor; e-mail: [email protected]
Denis I. KASIMOV
Kazan Federal University (Kazan, Rep. of Tatarstan, Russia) Graduate Student; e-mail: [email protected]
URBAN TOURISM AND FOOD CULTURE AS FACTORS IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE CITY AND AGGLOMERATION
Abstract. The article is devoted to the study the role of food culture in the formation of urban tourism flows. The authors propose to divide all catering venues into types according to their specifics and orientation: "global", "local", "diverse". The article shows the role of each type in urban tourism, both in terms of providing for the needs of guests and residents of the city and the agglomeration, and in terms of forming socio-economic effects for the territory. The article shows that changing the culture of food and the development of urban tourism affects changes in the cultural landscape of both the city and the agglomeration, the specifics of agriculture, and the formation of the urban environment. It is shown that catering venues are attractors not only for tourists, but also for local residents and create a variety of "third places" that allow citizens to relax in an informal environment in their city. The article describes the experience of Kazan. Being the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan, the city adheres to the expansion of tourism potential since the beginning of the 21st century as a priority of its socio-economic development. Kazan has the trademark "Gastronomic Capital of Russia". The city has more than two thousand catering venues, covering all designated types - global chains, local restaurants with local cuisine, a variety of food venues - from dining facilities accessible to everyone to unique dishes offered by chefs (author's cuisine). Emerging gastronomic traditions and preferences support traditional types of agriculture and cooking and at the same time stimulate the development of new sectors of farming, for example, viticulture and cheese production. Such traditions and innovations form the appearance of the cultural landscape of the city and the agglomeration.
Keywords: food culture, gastronomic tourism, city tourism, city, city agglomeration, city environment.
Citation: Khusnutdinova, S. R., & Kasimov, D. I. (2021). Urban tourism and food culture as factors in the development of the city and agglomeration. Service and Tourism: Current Challenges, 15(4), 124-131. doi: 10.24412/1995-0411-2021-4-124-131.
Article History
Received 5 November 2021 Accepted 3 December 2021
© 2021 the Author(s)
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY-SA 4.0). To view a copy of this license, visit https://creativecommons. org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
УДК 911
DOI: 10.24412/1995-0411-2021-4-124-131
ХУСНУТДИНОВА Светлана Рустемовна
Казанский федеральный университет (Казань, Респ. Татарстан, РФ) кандидат географических наук, доцент; e-mail: [email protected]
КАСИМОВ Денис Ильсафович
Казанский федеральный университет (Казань, Респ. Татарстан, РФ) аспирант; e-mail: [email protected]
ГОРОДСКОЙ ТУРИЗМ И КУЛЬТУРА ПИТАНИЯ КАК ФАКТОРЫ РАЗВИТИЯ ГОРОДА И АГЛОМЕРАЦИИ
Статья посвящена изучению роли культуры питания в формировании потоков городского туризма. Авторы предлагают разделить все предприятия общественного питания на типы согласно их специфике и направленности: "глобальные", "локальные", "разнообразные". В статье показана роль каждого типа в городском туризме как с точки зрения обеспечение потребностей гостей и жителей города и агломерации, так и с точки зрения формирования социально-экономических эффектов для территории. В статье показано, что изменение культуры питание и развитие городского туризма влияет на изменения культурного ландшафта как города, так и агломерации, на специфику ведения сельского хозяйства, на формирование городской среды. Показано, что предприятия общественно-го питания являются аттракторами не только для туристов, но и местных жителей и создают разнообразие "третьих мест", позволяющих горожанам отдыхать в неформальной обстановке в своем городе. В статье рассмотрен опыт г. Казани. Город, являясь столицей Республики Татарстан, в качестве приоритетов своего социально-экономического развития придерживается расширения туристского потенциала с начала XXI века. В настоящее время город обладает товарным знаком "Гастрономическая столица России". В Казани представлено более двух тысяч заведений общественного питания, охватывающих все выделенные авторами типы - глобальные сети, локальные рестораны с местной кухней, разнообразные точки питания - от доступных всем столовых до авторских ресторанов. Складывающиеся гастрономические традиции и предпочтения поддерживают традиционные виды сельского хозяйства и приготовления пищи и в то же время стимулируют развитие новых отраслей фермерства, например, виноградарство и производство сыров. Подобные традиции и новации формируют облик культурного ландшафта города и агломерации.
Ключевые слова: культура питания, гастрономический туризм, городской туризм, город, городская агломерация, городская среда
Для цитирования: Хуснутдинова СР., Касимов Д.И. Городской туризм и культура питания как факторы развития города и агломерации // Современные проблемы сервиса и туризма. 2021. Т.15. №4. С. 124-131. DOI: 10.24412/1995-0411-2021-4-124-131.
Дата поступления в редакцию: 5 ноября 2021 г. Дата утверждения в печать: 3 декабря 2021 г.
Introduction
Interest in gastronomic culture, restaurants and cafes is one of the most important factors affecting the choice of a place of rest, and, therefore, destinations, which seek to attract tourists, aimed at developing the gastronomic business. Similarly, it is impossible to create a separate city for tourists and for the city dwellers; everyone uses the same infrastructure, visits the same cultural sights, spends holidays and relaxes in the same places. It is also impossible to create separate restaurants and cafes for local people and guests separately. And, of course, the owner of the restaurant does not care who makes a profit - a tourist or a local resident, if both have a desire and an opportunity to visit restaurants or cafes. Moreover, there is an opinion among tourists seeking to feel the authenticity of the place that it is necessary to visit local restaurants and cafes that are popular among city dwellers. Both restaurants and cafes are becoming a place where the "ballet of citizens" unfolds, similar to pedestrian streets and described by Jane Jacobs in "The Death and Life of Great American Cities"[1]. It is meant that the local residents with their culture of visiting the "third place," which are restaurants and cafes, their behaviour, heir manners and their food culture are becoming an object of interest for tourists.
It is enough to recall Italian pizzeria, Viennese cafes or English pubs. Not only what local residents eat is becoming important, but also how they do it, the way they spend their lunch time, what they order and lot of other nuances that create a kind of atmosphere of restaurants, cafes, bistros and «takeaway food." The entire palette of services is important - from the decor to the music. It is no coincidence that playlists of certain cafes, for example, of the Paris Café Kitsune, are offered on well-known music platforms. Not only designers are engaged in the concept and decor of the restaurant, famous artists too. A vivid example of such a place is the cafe Luce at the entrance building of Fondazione Prada in Milan. This cafe was designated by film director Wes Anderson in 2015.
Thus, the role of catering enterprises for tourists is connected not only with the physiological need for food but it also allows you
to get acquainted with the culture, holidays, traditions, lifestyle of the local residents in a simple way.
For local residents, cafes and restaurants are a classic version of the "third place," that is such a place that does not have the "formal rules" of home ("first place") and work ("second place") and allows to hold informal meetings and communicate with a wide range of people at any convenient time. "Third places" form the lifestyle of townspeople, allow to relax in an everyday or weekly cycle, spend holidays or important events, they form the urban environment and perform a number of socially significant functions described in detail and detailed by Ray Oldenburg [2].
The connection between restaurant culture and the development of local agriculture is becoming stronger; on the one hand due to information and communication technologies, and on the other hand, due to sustainable development and the aspiration for environmentally friendly products supplied by farmers. Fashionable restaurants and cafes actively use authenticity and seasonality and also gladly demonstrate growing plants and harvesting on their social media. And this approach combining innovations and social networks and traditional ways of growing and producing food by small farms create a certain positive image broadcasting the connection with local culture. They represent in a certain sense a "performance" or "history" entertaining visitors and giving them additional interesting moments of recreation and recognition of the culture of destitution, for example YourAnimals in Saint Petersburg1.
In general, food culture has a number of symbols and values from life support ("vital" value) to sacred and aesthetic value [3, 4]. A number of articles are devoted to the culture of food as a vital value and the basis of human health [5, 6, 7]. It has a significant importance in cultural geography being an important part of the general culture of human society and reflecting the local charm. Ethnogeographic features of food culture and gastronomy are
1 Its cheese, bread and farm products from the Pskov region - the Animals restaurant has changed its format. URL: https://www.sobaka.ru/bars/ news/113255
the subject of study of ethnographers, geographers, anthropologists and others [8, 9, 10].
Cultural geography studies "culture in geographical space, the spatial differentiation and diversity of its elements, their severity in the landscape and the relationship with the geographical environment, as well as the mapping of geographical space in the culture itself" [11, P. 120]. It is tis content which allows us to consider the evolution of food culture as a driving force for changing the cultural landscape in relation to the city and urban agglomerations.
Results and Discussions
In terms of tourist leisure needs, restaurants and cafes can be divided into three broad categories: 1) "global"; 2) "local"; 3) "diverse".
The first type of catering is divided into two subtypes:
- famous world networks - McDonalds, KFS, Starbucks, Ikea Restaurant, etc.;
- "post-local" - those that were once known as local types of food enterprises -pizzeria, teahouse, Chinese restaurant, etc., but due to the active development of tourism went far beyond the borders of their homeland and open anywhere in the world.
A number of publications in the scientific literature is devoted to the "globalization of food" and the interpenetration of the food culture of different parts of the world [12, 13].
The second type of catering enterprises positions itself as a brand focused on acquaintance with local food culture and using traditional recipes, local food mainly, national design of the restaurant, etc. Such catering enterprises focus on serving not only tourists, but also the local people, of course, and with a successful set of circumstances and the active development of external tourism, it becomes "post-authentic" and goes beyond the area where they arose.
"Diverse" restaurants include the widest range of establishments and do not adhere to any line: from unique dishes to dining facilities available to absolutely everyone.
From the point of view of a tourist, the first two categories are of particular importance. Global restaurants and cafes open in new places thanks to the "overflow of knowledge" and the development of tourism and
are a vivid sign of the "erasing borders" and globalization. "Local restaurants" are possible thanks to the preservation of local traditions of growing plants and animals, the preservation of culinary recipes and are generally interesting for their uniqueness.
The first group of restaurants and cafes is important for a tourist who finds himself in an unfamiliar environment in order to feel confident in destination due to the already familiar rules of operation of the already famous restaurant chain - from understandable food to free Wi-Fi. On the other hand, the world's largest brands themselves can become a tourist attractor for guests from those settlements where these world networks are not yet represented. In addition, the presence of one or another world brand speaks in a certain sense about the rating of the city, since such networks carefully assess the market potential of the territory and, perhaps, it is worth introducing a "cappuccino index," which allows to evaluate the possibilities of destruction to provide a gastronomic infrastructure understandable to the tourist
The second category is essential for the acquisition of local culture and souvenirs.
The third category is important for local residents and allows to try a variety of types of cuisine and culinary delights of the city, and also encourages local farmers to grow and produce food which is new to the area but are in great demand due to the fashion for a particular cuisine.
In our opinion, the presence of all designated groups is important for the development of tourism. "Global" restaurants provide services understandable to any tourist - from cappuccino to Wi-Fi, "local" introduce to local traditions, and "diverse" provide diversity and choice.
As a city actively engaged in the development of the tourist sphere, Kazan has restaurants and cafes of all three types allocated. In 2021, the city officially received the status of the "gastronomic capital of Russia," registering the corresponding trademark in the Federal Intellectual Property Service2.
2 Kazan officially received the status of the gastronomic capital of Russia. URL: https://kzn. ru/meriya/press-tsentr/novosti/kazan-ofitsialno-poluchila-status-gastronomicheskoy-stolitsy-rossii/ (In Russ.).
In Kazan, there are more than 2 thousand catering venues. Master classes on cooking a dish of local cuisine are popular among both guests and citizens. There are gastronomic festivals: "Tasty Kazan" and "KyshDaKar-fest." Recipe collections are published and become souvenirs. Board games on the theme of national gastronomy are being developed. Traditional dessert chack-chack has long become a gastronomic symbol of the republic. A successful example of the "overflow of knowledge" and the use of fast-food restaurant approaches to promoting national cuisine is the chain of restaurants Tubetei. As already mentioned, the city has restaurants and cafes of all three types allocated by us.
The realities of modern society dictate new standards along with new behavioural models. It is important to mention the geographical focus of some catering places on their consumers. Thus, a tourist who has arrived in a completely unfamiliar country, but is familiar with serving in large chains, can go to his coffee shop or restaurant of his favourite chain and "teleport" to the usual "home" format. It's not even about aromatic coffee or a unified system of cooking, but about the special atmosphere that these establishments are filled with. Compliance with uniform requirements for food preparation, uniform standards of service, uniform design of the internal and external interior allows the tourist to feel "at home".
All leading brands of the "global" type are represented in Kazan. McDonald's was the first to come to the city. The opening of the first McDonald's fast-food restaurant in Kazan took place on April 29, 1999. As of 2021, the Republic of Tatarstan has 26 McDonald's restaurants: 17 outlets in Kazan, 4 restaurants in Naberezhnye Chelny, 2 restaurants in Almetyevsk and one restaurant each in Bugul-ma, Elabuga and Nizhnekamka.
One of the main priorities of the company for 27 years of activity in Russia has been the creation and development of a local network of suppliers of food, agricultural and other products that meet world standards. Today, the company buys more than 85% of products from 160 Russian manufacturers. More than 100,000 jobs were created at supplier enterprises to serve McDonald's in Russia. The dis-
tribution centre "Xavi Logistics Alabuga" and the disposable tableware plant "Huktamaki Foodservice Alabuga" are strategic partners of McDonald's in the Republic of Tatarstan3
Burger King, one of the largest fast-food chains in the world, opened the first restaurant in Russia in January 2010, in Kazan in early April 2014. As of 2021, there are 33 Berger King restaurants in in the Republic of Tatarstan (in Kazan, Naberezhnye Chelny, Nizhnekamsk and Zelenodolsk)4.
KFC is the world's third fast food restaurant chain. In the Republic of Tatarstan, this network is a good competitor in the fight for attracting customers in the field of fast-food enterprises. In Kazan there are 23 restaurants, in Naberezhnye Chelny - seven restaurants, two venues in Nizhnekamsk and one in Zelenodolsk5.
On November 30, 2005, the first IKEA was opened in Kazan, one of the leading international companies not only selling furniture and home goods, but also providing catering services, creating the conditions for customers to spend their spare time. The IKEA restaurant and the cafe offer both traditional Swedish dishes and food familiar to Russian customers6.
Starbucks is an American coffee company and coffee chain of the same name. As of September 2018, the Starbucks network united over 29 thousand cafes in 75 countries around the world. In Russia, the first Starbucks coffee shop opened in Moscow in 2007. Until recently, there were more than 100 coffee shops in Russia in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Rostov-on-Don, Krasnodar, Sochi, Yaroslavl, Yekaterinburg, Tyumen and Samara. Kazan became the 10th city on the company map. Today, three coffee shops operate in Kazan7.
3 McDonald's "city of suppliers" started working in Tatarstan. URL: https://mcdonalds.ru/articles/news/ mcdonalds-city-of-suppliers-tatarstan (In Russ.).
4 Burger King Republic of Tatarstan: menu, prices, opening hours. URL: https://burgerkings.ru/adre-sa/respublika-tatarstan/ (In Russ.).
5 The second coming of the "wings" to Kazan. URL: https://www.business-gazeta.ru/article/56916 (In Russ.).
6 IKEA: Mission and business idea. URL: https:// www.ikea.com/ru/ru/this-is-ikea/about-us/missi-ya-i-biznes-ideya-pub25f05283 (In Russ.).
7 The opening of the first Starbucks coffee shop in the capital of the Republic of Tatarstan caused
a stir among Kazan residents. URL: https://www. business-gazeta.ru/news/352979 (In Russ.).
Along with world brands, the domestic network of coffee shops Skuratov is rapidly developing and expanding its influence in the market of Kazan. The chain opened its first venue in Omsk in 2013 by Siberian entrepreneur Viktor Skuratov. In 2017, the first coffee shop in Kazan was opened, and today the chain has expanded to seven venues. "Guests with a laptop" is the target group of customers of their coffee shops. Interestingly, Kazan is ahead of not only Nizhny Novgorod and Samara in the number of cafes, but also Moscow. In the capital of the country there are only four coffee shops of this brand. In total, the chain covers seven Russian cities, where 33 coffee shops operate.8.
As mentioned earlier, the second type of catering enterprises acts as a brand that provides services to familiarize itself with local food culture. In their menu, they use traditional recipes, local food and the design of the establishment in accordance with national canons.
With increasing numbers of tourists In Kazan in recent years, attention to national cuisine has also increased. At the end of the 20th century the city could boast only a small number of venues - for example, the Tea House or the Tatar Cooking House on Bauman Street, at the turn of the 20th-21st centuries whole restaurant complexes "Tugan Avylym," appeared. A bright representative of this type is the chain of cafe-restaurants of public catering "Tubetei." In 2012, the concept of Tubetei, the first logo and layout of the first trading pavilions were created, in 2015 the first trading pavilions opened up. This year they have opened 7 pavilions and its own bakery. The first Kystyburger was developed in 2016, adapted for modern world trends in public food - a new product Tubetei, which combines the traditional design of the Tatar national Qistibi and modern filling. In 2017, the first Tatar fast food service restaurant was opened on Kremlin Street. In 2018, the Tatar fast food chain participated in the catering organization of the World Cup. Then, two restaurants were opened on Bauman and Uni-
8 Tourists warmed up the Kazan coffee market. URL: https://realnoevremya.ru/articles/215398-omskiy-predprinimatel-skuratov-otkryl-shestuyu-kofeynyu (In Russ.).
versitetskaya Streets. On December 11, 2021, the company opened a restaurant in the very center of the Kazan Kremlin. Tubetei regularly maintains social networks and advertises only within its target audience - students, families, Muslims and tourists. On average, 50 thousand people eat every month in all points of "Tubetei" in Kazan.
Today, the chain of fast-food restaurants has grown into a group of companies called T-Family, which creates working business concepts and integrates the best in them: successful cases, modern positive customer experience and unique Tatar national cuisine. Tubetei represented Tatarstan in the Emirates, Malaysia, Turkey and China and other countries. The main principle of "Tubetei" is halal, that is, everything useful from an Islamic point of view. This includes the rules of food, public relations and business. So, communication between employees should be friendly and trusting, and the company take loans and does not take interest or penalty from suppliers. They work exclusively with local partners, whom the management trusts9. The inclusion of national cuisine in the list of intangible heritage can help preserve traditions and increase brand recognition, and intangible heritage is an important factor in the development of urbanized territories [14].
The third type of catering enterprise is represented extremely widely in the capital of the republic. Interestingly, developing gastronomic tourism in the republic is associated not only with local cuisine or traditional agricultural sectors and corresponding national dishes, but also with borrowed forms that bring changes to the cultural landscape due to the emergence of new agricultural industries and types of gastronomic products. In this regard, the experience of the Kamskoe Ustye district of the republic is noteworthy.
A new and actively developing direction Kamskoye Ustye has appeared recently in the Kazan economic zone of the Republic of Tatarstan, along with the famous Innopo-lis, Raifa, Sviyazhsk, Blue Lakes, Bulgar, Tety-ushi and Dolgaya Polyana, the place where the two largest rivers of the European part of Russia join - the Volga and the Kama. The
9 172 words about Tubatay URL: https://tubatay.
com/about/
urban-type village of Kamskoye Ustye is the center of the Kamsko-Ustinsky district of the Republic of Tatarstan, located on the right bank of the river. Currently, there are 21 municipalities in the district, 53 settlements, including 3 urban-type settlements (Kamskoye Ustye, Kuibyshevsky Zaton, Tenishevo). Currently, as of January 1, 2021, 14.6 thousand people live in the district.
Protected natural objects are located in the Kazan city agglomeration and economic zone. There are natural monuments - Lake Karamal-skoye (Baikul), Forest Lake, Yuryevskaya Cave, Zimovieva Cave, Bogorodskaya Cave, Konnodol-skaya Cave, Tenkovskaya steppe; natural parks
- Mount Lobach, Labyshkin Mountains, An-tonovsky ravines. Plants of the Kovylnaya steppe are listed in the Red Book of the Republic of Tatarstan. Rare animals for Tatarstan were found in the natural complex of the Labyshkin Mountains10.
Kamskoye Ustye is a landmark place in Russia, the spill of the river here reaches 42 kilometers. Here, in the near future, a whole eco-cluster will be deployed with hotels, campsites and glampings. The calling card of the Kamskoye Ustye is rightfully considered its nature. Stunning views of the right bank of the Volga, which in ancient times was called the Mountain Side, views of tens of kilometers. Here is one of the most attractive natural objects along the Volga - Yuryevskaya Cave (tens of thousands of tourists come here a year), next to it there are stone cliffs
- the main base of training Kazan rock climbers. Kamskoye Ustye has long been loved by fishermen, there is a dozen fishing bases. It is planned to build a yacht club in Kuibyshevsky Zaton. Opposite Kamskoye Ustye, there is the Saralinsky part of the Volga-Kama Biosphere sanctuary, where the largest in Europe white-tailed eagles with a wingspan of up to three meters are found. Hotels and recreation centers in the area: fishing base "Cool Town"; Fishing Club "Three Shores"; Hotel "Kurai"; a fishing and hunting base "Kamskiye prostory"; hotel complex "Kama Trophy"; fishing and hotel complex "Pier"11.
10 Велодорожка от Казани до Камского Устья — это не фантастика. URL: https://realnoevremya. ru/articles/197024-kraeved-leonid-abramov---o -velodorozhke-kazan—kamskoe-uste
11 Kamskoe Ustye municipal district. URL: https:// kamskoye-ustye.tatarstan.ru/turism.htm (In Russ.).
In 2018, the Kamamber cheese factory was opened in Kamsky Ustye, where cheeses according to the French recipe are made from local milk. Here you can observe the whole process: how to cook, shape cheese, let it grow. Only five people work at the cheese factory, but even such a small team produces three tons of cheese per month - this is 24 thousand packages. A tourist can get acquainted with the process of making cheese, try all five varieties of cheese, which is included in the excursion, buy fresh cheese12.
Kama vineyard is the only and unique vineyard in the Republic of Tatarstan. Rocky soil with a high content of limestone is one of the main rocks of Kamskoye Ustye, which favourably affects the cultivation of grapes. For tourists, a magnificent opportunity opens up for non-verbal acquaintance with the unique products of the area, a tourist can taste grapes, you can walk between rows, point at a bunch and the owner will cut it for you.
The idea of creating a peasant farm arose in 2015, which later became the first vineyard in Tatarstan of industrial volume. the first tourists visited the vineyard at the beginning of 2019.You can listen to the owner of the farm about the history of the vineyard, find out the nature of each variety, how large juicy berries differ from small grapes. In 2021, about 500 people a day attended the vineyarin high season. Gradually, the owner of the farm increased the volume of cultivation. Greenhouses were built to expand the volume of supplies: table varieties for shops and technical varieties for the manufacture of wine. In 2019, the first wines were made that are offered for tasting as part of the excursion (wine varieties: Riton, Saperavi Severny). A huge number of visitors are families, operators bring people from Kirov, Ulyanovsk. The Kama vineyard began to attract photographers as a local attraction13.
12 Cheese Factory Camembert. URL: https://kams-koe.com/syrnyj-zavod-kamamber/ (In Russ.).
13 How a bartender from Ulyanovsk moved to an open field in Kamsky Ustye and single-handedly planted a vineyard. URL: https://inde.io/ article/31846-kak-barmen-iz-ulyanovska-pereehal-v-chistoe-pole-v-kamskom-ustie-i-v-odinochku-posadil-vinogradnik (In Russ.).
Conclusion
Food is one of the most important components of the tourist product. Catering facilities perform the most important socio-economic functions not only for the city - tourist destination, but also stimulates the development of territories of agricultural importance. The social and economic functions of catering enterprises from the point of view of the city and its agglomeration can be combined into several groups:
1) providing jobs both at the catering enterprises themselves and at supplier enterprises;
2) preservation of local traditions and local culture;
3) providing recreational opportunities for citizens;
4) the creation of small and medium-sized businesses, the development of self-employment, and therefore the receipt of taxes;
5) changing the cultural landscape and urban environment.
Food in the field of tourism is a kind of non-verbal tool to get acquainted with history, culture, culinary traditions and unique products of the area, region, country. Unfortunately, in our opinion, the contribution of food culture to the creation and change of the cultural landscape is not sufficiently appreciated, and this is the task of future research.
References
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