CC BY
13№ 8(122)
август, 2024 г.
PAPERS IN ENGLISH
ART CRITICISM
INDUSTRIAL ART AND DESIGN
DOI - 10.32743/UniPhil.2024.122.8.18085
TRANSFORMING PERCEPTIONS OF BEAUTY THROUGH THE PRISM OF PLUS-SIZE PHOTOGRAPHY: THE EXPERIENCE OF WORKING IN THE BODY POSITIVE MOVEMENT
Karina Poltavtseva
Photographer USA, New York E-mail: hello@photokarizza. com
ТРАНСФОРМАЦИЯ ВОСПРИЯТИЯ КРАСОТЫ ЧЕРЕЗ ПРИЗМУ ФОТОГРАФИИ БОЛЬШИХ РАЗМЕРОВ: ОПЫТ РАБОТЫ В ДВИЖЕНИИ BODY POSITIVE
Полтавцева Карина
фотограф, США, г. Нью-Йорк
ABSTRACT
This study examines the evolution of beauty standards in the fashion industry, focusing on the role of photography in shaping public perception of body image. Utilizing theories of social constructivism and visual culture, the research explores technical and creative aspects of plus-size photography and analyzes the impact of the Body Positive movement on the fashion industry and society. The study employs qualitative analysis of photographic projects and industry trends. Results indicate a significant shift towards more inclusive representation in fashion photography, with plus-size models gaining prominence in mainstream campaigns. The research concludes that fashion photographers play a crucial role in challenging traditional beauty norms and fostering a more diverse aesthetic landscape. This work contributes to the ongoing discourse on body representation in media and offers insights into the transformative potential of inclusive fashion photography.
АННОТАЦИЯ
В этом исследовании рассматривается эволюция стандартов красоты в индустрии моды, особое внимание уделяется роли фотографии в формировании общественного восприятия образа тела. Используя теории социального конструктивизма и визуальной культуры, в исследовании рассматриваются технические и творческие аспекты фотографии больших размеров и анализируется влияние движения бодипозитива на индустрию моды и общество в целом. В исследовании используется качественный анализ фотографических проектов и тенденций отрасли. Результаты свидетельствуют о значительном сдвиге в сторону более широкой репрезентации в модной фотографии, когда модели больших размеров становятся все более заметными в рекламных кампаниях. В исследовании делается вывод о том, что модные фотографы играют решающую роль в изменении традиционных норм красоты и формировании более разнообразного эстетического ландшафта. Эта работа вносит свой вклад в продолжающийся дискурс о репрезентации тела в СМИ и дает представление о преобразующем потенциале инклюзивной модной фотографии.
Keywords: body positivity, fashion photography, plus-size models, beauty standards, visual representation, social constructivism, aesthetic pluralism, inclusive fashion, media influence, cultural transformation.
Ключевые слова: бодипозитив, модная фотография, модели больших размеров, стандарты красоты, визуальная репрезентация, социальный конструктивизм, эстетический плюрализм, инклюзивная мода, влияние СМИ, культурная трансформация.
Библиографическое описание: Poltavtseva K. TRANSFORMING PERCEPTIONS OF BEAUTY THROUGH THE PRISM OF PLUS-SIZE PHOTOGRAPHY: THE EXPERIENCE OF WORKING IN THE BODY POSITIVE MOVEMENT // Universum: филология и искусствоведение: электрон. научн. журн. 2024. 8(122). URL: https://7universum.com/ru/philology/archive/item/18085
№ 8(122)
aBrycT, 2024 r.
1. Introduction
Beauty standards in the fashion industry have undergone significant changes in recent decades, reflecting broader sociocultural shifts in society. The traditionally dominant paradigm of an idealized, often unattainable body shape is gradually giving way to a more inclusive approach to representing the human body [3]. This transformation is driven by several factors, including the growing influence of the body acceptance movement and the increasing critical discourse around unrealistic beauty standards in the media.
In the context of social constructivism theory, notions of beauty are shaped by cultural norms and social interactions. The fashion industry, as one of the key agents of socialization, plays a significant role in this process [6]. However, in recent years, there has been a paradigmatic shift from a unified ideal to the recognition of diverse forms of beauty. This change is reflected in the concept of "aesthetic pluralism," which posits the equal value of different aesthetic standards.
It is important to note that the evolution of beauty standards is not a linear process. It is characterized by a dialectical interaction between established norms and new trends, creating dynamic tension within the industry. This tension is evident in the gradual inclusion of plus-size models in mainstream fashion shows and advertising campaigns, as well as in the growing attention to issues of representation and inclusivity [8;9].
As a practicing photographer and expert in fashion photography, I observe these changes directly in my work. The expansion of the range of body types represented in the industry not only responds to social demand but also opens up new creative opportunities for visual art [7]. This process requires a rethinking of established photographic techniques and approaches to working with models, which in turn enriches the visual language of fashion.
However, despite the promotion of self-acceptance, there are concerns about commercialization and potential self-objectification within the movement. Research indicates that a significant portion of body positivity content on social media includes sexualized poses and the promotion of commercial products. This sometimes shifts the focus from genuine self-acceptance to conforming to alternative beauty standards for social or economic gain [11; 12].
2. The Role of Photography in Shaping
and Changing Public Perception of the Body
Photography, as a medium of visual communication, plays a crucial role in shaping and transforming public perception of the body. Many plus-size photo sessions and campaigns aim to challenge and redefine societal beauty standards. By showcasing diverse body types and emphasizing that beauty comes in various forms and sizes, these photographs help alter public perception. Campaigns such as Urbanic's "My Right to Wear" and Fab Alley's "#FabFitsAll" have been pivotal in promoting body positivity and encouraging self-acceptance across different segments of the population. This role can be examined through the lens of Albert Bandura's social
learning theory and George Gerbner's cultivation theory [10].
According to Bandura's theory, visual images conveyed through photography serve as powerful tools for modeling behavior and attitudes. In the context of fashion photography, this is particularly relevant in the digital media age, where images spread with unprecedented speed and reach. The systematic representation of diverse body types in fashion photography can gradually shift societal beauty standards [1].
Gerbner's cultivation theory complements this understanding by asserting that prolonged exposure to specific visual images shapes the audience's perception of reality. In the case of plus-size photography, this means that the regular depiction of models of various sizes in positive and attractive contexts can eventually normalize body diversity in the public consciousness.
Plus-size photography often includes models of different ages, sizes, shapes, and ethnic backgrounds. This inclusivity helps more people see themselves represented in the media, fostering a sense of acceptance and belonging. Campaigns like Zivame's "Fit For All" and Biba's "Change the Question" have been praised for their inclusive approach, emphasizing that fashion and beauty are for everyone [10].
It is important to note that photography does not merely reflect reality but actively constructs it. In this context, fashion photography serves as a space for performative acts where new forms of corporeality can be legitimized through visual representation. Each photo session featuring plus-size models becomes an act of affirming a new standard of beauty.
The phenomenon of "visual framing" also plays a significant role in how photography influences body perception. The choice of angle, composition, and overall aesthetic creates a specific "frame" through which the audience interprets the image [2]. Depicting plus-size models in aesthetically pleasing and empowering contexts can significantly influence the perception of body diversity.
Projects like the recreation of Pink Floyd's "Back Catalogue" poster or Calvin Klein's advertising campaigns featuring plus-size models demonstrate how alternative body representations can prompt a reevaluation of established norms [14; 15]. Public reactions to these images show that such projects can generate broad social resonance and contribute to changing perceptions [5].
One of the key aspects of photography's influence on body perception is its ability to normalize diversity. According to Robert Zajonc's mere exposure effect theory, repeated exposure to a stimulus increases its attractiveness to the observer [4]. In the context of fashion photography, this means that the regular presentation of plus-size models in positive contexts can gradually shift public preferences and beauty standards.
Furthermore, the role of photography in shaping and changing public perception of the body is multifaceted and dynamic. It encompasses not only the aesthetic aspect but also social, psychological, and cultural components. Through the conscious use of photography as a tool for social change, the fashion industry can significantly influence the formation of a more inclusive and diverse representation of beauty in society.
№ 8 (122)
A UN?
/W\ ФИЛ<
7universum.com
UNIVERSUM:
ФИЛОЛОГИЯ И ИСКУССТВОВЕДЕНИЕ
август, 2024 г.
3. Technical and Creative Aspects of Plus-Size Photography
Plus-size photography represents a unique direction in the fashion industry, requiring a specific approach both technically and creatively. From a technical perspective, the correct use of lighting plays a crucial role. Unlike traditional fashion photography, which often employs harsh, contrasty lighting, working with plus-size models typically prefers softer, diffused light. This creates a more flattering effect, highlighting the body's natural curves without emphasizing unwanted shadows. The technique of light modeling based on the principles of chiaroscuro can be particularly effective in creating volume and expressiveness in the image.
The choice of lens is also critical. Wide-angle lenses, often used in fashion photography to create dynamic compositions, can distort the proportions of plus-size
models' bodies. Instead, lenses with a focal length of 85 mm and above are recommended, as they provide a more natural depiction of proportions and minimize optical distortions. It is important to note that the choice of focal length affects not only the technical quality of the image but also its emotional perception, aligning with the theory of visual rhetoric.
In terms of composition, plus-size photography requires special attention to posing. Traditional poses developed for standard-size models are often ineffective or inappropriate for plus-size models. New posing approaches must be developed to highlight the strengths of the model's figure and create a harmonious composition. This relates to Maurice Merleau-Ponty's concept of "body schema," which suggests that body perception is inseparable from its spatial position. Practically, this means the photographer must work closely with the model to find the most advantageous and comfortable poses.
Figure 1. Composition in
The creative aspect of plus-size photography is intrinsically linked to the concept of "visual empathy." The photographer must not only technically capture the model correctly but also convey her inner beauty and confidence. This requires a deep understanding of the model's psychology and the ability to create an atmosphere of trust and comfort on the set. Such an approach aligns with Daniel Goleman's theory of "emotional intelligence" as applied to visual arts.
Plus-Size Photography [13]
Moreover, an important aspect of plus-size photography is working with color and texture. The choice of wardrobe and accessories plays a key role in creating a cohesive image. This involves considering not only aesthetic but also semiotic aspects of color choices. According to the theory of color semantics, different colors and their combinations can evoke specific emotional and cognitive responses in the viewer. In the context of plus-size photography, this knowledge can be used to create
№ 8 (122)
A UN?
/W\ ФИЛ<
7universum.com
UNIVERSUM:
ФИЛОЛОГИЯ И ИСКУССТВОВЕДЕНИЕ
август, 2024 г.
visual narratives that emphasize the strength, grace, and confidence of the models.
Post-processing in plus-size photography requires a special approach. Unlike traditional fashion photography, which often involves aggressive retouching, the plus-size direction prefers minimal intervention in the model's natural appearance. This aligns with the ethical principles of the body positive movement and the concept of "authentic beauty." However, this does not mean a complete rejection of post-processing; rather, it involves a delicate balance between technical perfection and maintaining the model's naturalness.
Today, innovative approaches in plus-size photography include experimenting with non-traditional locations and contexts. For example, the project recreating Pink Floyd's "Back Catalogue" poster featuring plus-size models demonstrates how iconic images can be reinterpreted through the lens of body positivity [15]. Such projects not only expand the creative horizons of photography but also serve as a powerful tool for social commentary, in line with Nicolas Bourriaud's concept of "art as social practice."
In conclusion, the technical and creative aspects of plus-size photography are continually evolving. As the fashion industry becomes more inclusive, new challenges and opportunities for innovation in this field emerge.
4. The Impact of the Body Positive Movement on the Fashion Industry and Society
The Body Positive movement, which originated as a grassroots initiative, has significantly influenced both
the fashion industry and society as a whole, transforming established paradigms of beauty and body representation. The movement also profoundly impacts mental health, promoting self-respect and body satisfaction. Positive body content has been proven to enhance mood and self-perception, making people feel better about themselves. This positive effect on mental health is especially important in a society that often promotes unrealistic beauty ideals.
From the perspective of sociological theory of "social movements," Body Positive can be seen as a collective action aimed at changing cultural norms and institutional practices. This movement has challenged the dominant discourse on the body, long upheld by the fashion industry, media, and advertising. In the context of George Herbert Mead's "symbolic interactionism," Body Positive redefines the symbolic meanings associated with the body, offering alternative interpretations of beauty and attractiveness.
The impact of Body Positive on the fashion industry manifests in several key aspects. Firstly, there is an expansion of size ranges in many brands, reflecting the growing demand for inclusive fashion. This change can be interpreted through Paul DiMaggio and Walter Powell's theory of "institutional change," which suggests that organizations adapt to new social expectations to maintain legitimacy. Secondly, there is a diversification of models represented in advertising campaigns and on runways. Projects like the recreation of Calvin Klein advertisements featuring plus-size models demonstrate how alternative body representations are entering mainstream fashion.
Figure 2. 4 Plus-Size Models Recreate the Kardashian-Jenners' Calvin Klein Underwear Ads [15]
№ 8(122)
aBrycT, 2024 r.
From a marketing perspective, the impact of Body Positive can be analyzed through the concept of "values-based marketing." Brands that integrate Body Positive principles into their communication strategies not only expand their target audience but also create an emotional connection with consumers based on shared values. This leads to the formation of new market segments and changes in consumer behavior. According to consumer culture theory, Body Positive transforms not only the market offerings in fashion but also the way consumers construct their identity through consumption.
The influence of Body Positive on society extends beyond the fashion industry and touches broader aspects of social life. From the perspective of social constructivism theory, Body Positive participates in the process of revising socially constructed representations of the body and beauty. This influence is reflected in changing discourse on health and well-being, where the focus shifts from appearance to overall physical and mental health. In the context of Pierre Bourdieu's theory of "habitus," Body Positive contributes to the formation of new bodily practices and modes of self-presentation that become part of an individual's social and cultural capital.
It is important to note that the influence of Body Positive on society is not limited to issues of weight and body size. The movement also promotes the acceptance of various physical features, such as vitiligo, scars, and other deviations from conventional beauty standards. This aligns with the concept of "intersectionality," which emphasizes the interconnectedness of various forms of social marginalization. As a result, Body Positive becomes part of a broader movement for social justice and equality.
However, the influence of Body Positive is not without contradictions and challenges. Critics of the movement point to the risk of normalizing unhealthy practices under the banner of body acceptance. This contradiction can be analyzed through the lens of "moral panic" theory, where Body Positive becomes an object of public anxiety and debates about health and morality. Additionally, there is a risk of commodification of the movement, where its ideas are used by brands purely for marketing purposes without real change in practices. This phenomenon aligns with the concept of radical ideas being integrated into the mainstream, losing their original critical potential [10-12].
In conclusion, the impact of Body Positive on the fashion industry and society continues to evolve and transform. As a movement, it faces the challenges of in-
stitutionalization and balancing radical changes with integration into existing structures. Nevertheless, its influence on rethinking concepts of beauty, health, and self-worth has already become an integral part of the contemporary sociocultural landscape.
5. Conclusion
The analysis of the evolution of beauty standards, the role of photography in shaping public perception of the body, the technical and creative aspects of plus-size photography, and the impact of the Body Positive movement on the fashion industry and society allows us to draw several important conclusions about the prospects for inclusivity in fashion photography.
Firstly, it is evident that inclusivity in fashion photography is not just a fleeting trend but a fundamental shift in the paradigm of visual representation in the fashion industry. This transformation reflects broader sociocultural shifts in society and demands that industry professionals rethink established practices and approaches.
From a technical standpoint, the development of inclusive fashion photography will be accompanied by the continued refinement of methods for working with different body types. Innovations in lighting, composition, and post-processing are expected to focus on creating more authentic and empowering images. It is essential to maintain a balance between aesthetic appeal and the authenticity of representation.
Creatively, the prospects for inclusivity open new horizons for artistic expression. We can anticipate a growth in experimental projects that reinterpret the canons of fashion photography through the lens of diversity and inclusivity. This may lead to the emergence of new genres and styles within fashion photography.
In terms of societal impact, the further development of inclusive fashion photography has the potential for significant social change. Expanding the representation of various body types and appearances in visual culture can contribute to the formation of a more tolerant and accepting society. However, this process requires ongoing reflection and critical thinking to avoid the risks of superficial inclusivity and the commodification of the Body Positive movement.
For professionals in the field of fashion photography, these prospects imply the need for continuous learning and adaptation. Photographers will need to not only master new technical skills but also develop cultural competence and ethical sensitivity in working with diverse models.
References:
1. Bandura, A. (2009). Social cognitive theory of mass communication. In Media effects (pp. 110-140). Routledge.
2. Gerbner, G., Gross, L., Morgan, M., Signorielli, N., & Shanahan, J. (2002). Growing up with television: Cultivation processes. In Media effects (pp. 53-78). Routledge.
3. Grogan, S. (2021). Body image: Understanding body dissatisfaction in men, women and children. Routledge.
4. Tiggemann, M., & Zaccardo, M. (2018). 'Strong is the new skinny': A content analysis of# fitspiration images on Instagram. Journal of health psychology, 23(8), 1003-1011.
5. Webb, J. B., Vinoski, E. R., Bonar, A. S., Davies, A. E., & Etzel, L. (2017). Fat is fashionable and fit: A comparative content analysis of Fatspiration and Health at Every Size® Instagram images. Body image, 22, 53-64.
6. Mears, A. (2011). Pricing beauty: The making of a fashion model. Univ of California Press.
№ 8 (122)
UNIVERSUM
ФИЛОЛОГИЯ и
• 7uriversum.com
ИСКУССТВОВЕДЕНИЕ
август, 2024 г.
7. Rodgers, R. F., Kruger, L., Lowy, A. S., Long, S., & Richard, C. (2019). Getting Real about body image: A qualitative investigation of the usefulness of the Aerie Real campaign. Body Image, 30, 127-134.
8. Slater, A., Varsani, N., & Diedrichs, P. C. (2017). #fitspo or#loveyoursef? The impact of fitspiration and self-compassion Instagram images on women's body image, self-compassion, and mood. Body image, 22, 87-96.
9. Cohen, R., Irwin, L., Newton-John, T., & Slater, A. (2019). #bodypositivity: A content analysis of body positive accounts on Instagram. Body image, 29, 47-57.
10. Body Positivity Campaigns (Exploring Their Impact). URL: https://madisonplus.com/body-positivity-campaigns/
11. The body positivity movement; what is and what could be?. URL: https://www.concordiapsychjour-nals.ca/cjap/blog/body-positivity/
12. Exploring the Body Positivity Movement. URL: https://www.psychologytoday.com/au/blog/fit-feminin-ity/202211/exploring-the-body-positivity-movement
13. This Is What Happens When Gigi Hadid's Nude Photo Shoot Gets Recreated By A Plus-Sized Model. URL: https://www.demilked.com/gigi-hadid-nude-photo-recreated-diana-sirokai/
14. Curvy women bare all to recreate Pink Floyd's famous 'Back Catalog' poster. URL: https://sg.news.ya-hoo.com/style/curvy-women-bare-recreate-pink-floyds-famous-back-catalogue-poster-2-092307255.html
15. 4 Plus-Size Models Recreate the Kardashian-Jenners' Calvin Klein Underwear Ads. URL: https://peo-ple.com/style/models-recreate-kardashian-jenner-calvin-klein-ads/
