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THE IDEA OF RETHINKING THE UNIVERSAL CLOTHING PROPOSED BY RUSSIAN ARTISTS AND DESIGNERS IN THE 1920s
Purpose: to explore the scale of the influence of constructivist ideas on costume design in the development of Sov'et fashion and the development of modern fashion trends. The main research methods: collection and analysis of primary sources: articles of constructivist designers published in the magazines Atelier, Krasnaya Niva, LEF (1923-1925); fashion collections of modern designers. The theoretical significance is in determining the main principles of designing clothes by constructivist artists. Practical value in the usage of research materials is to create your own unique collection of clothes. Materials will be useful to schoolchildren, lecturers of technology, design and additional education.
Keywords
constructivists, costume design art, overall, art, painting, soviet fashion
AUTHORS
Daria A. Denisova
student at Higher School of Economics — National Research University, Moscow 20, Myasnitskaya street, Moscow, 101000 Russia dashadeni@gmail.com
1. Introduction
Background
Versatile clothing is a base which people constantly turn and which plays an important role in the context of world history of costume and culture. The concepts proposed by Russian artists and designers of the 1920s, when clothing was stamped on a large scale and was the same for everyone due to a lack of raw materials, became an inspiration for turning to universal clothing. However, today the production of clothing has moved to the level when it became too high and this is a problem of unreasonable consumption. The theme of the project studies the problem of low consumption of different types of clothing including versatile clothes like unionalls, coverolls and other fast fashion products that are produced in the world in large quantities. According to Wikipedia fast fashion is a contemporary term used by fashion retailers to express that designs move from catwalk quickly to capture current fashion trends. Fast fashion clothing collections are based on the most recent fashion trends presented at Fashion Week in both the spring and the autumn of every year. The emphasis is on optimizing certain aspects of the supply chain for these trends to be designed and manufactured quickly and inexpensively to allow the mainstream consumer to buy current clothing styles at a lower price. This philosophy of quick manufacturing at an affordable price is used in large retailers such as H&M, Zara, C&A, Peacocks, Primark, Xcel Brands, and Topshop. The project is exploring such a fundamental question: how people can decrease the trend of high consumption and what can be done in the fashion industry to save the planet and to accustom people to the conscious consumption of clothing. The works of different authors can help to study the problem of consumption and give different information and materials that are very helpful for research and inspiration. The project proposes the idea for finding the resolution of fast fashion and low consumption trend. The project reports on the reassessment of methods of production and fast consumption in such a fundamental part of human life as clothing, so the key way is to consider from the perspective of sustainability using the tricks of recycling and upcycling that gives the second life for old clothes. It also gives the ideas for rethinking the relations between people and the environment and attracts attention to the future that can be catastrophic. Results show that clothing can be stylish, fashionable, functional and comfortable if it has a message for rational consumption through methods and techniques of recycling and upcycling. Such clothing is broadcasted sustainable fashion.
The topic of rethinking universal clothing proposed by Russian artists and designers has its own relevance. In the 1920s, at a time when "building a new world" and a new state took place in Soviet Russia, the approach to art became completely different and constructivist artists, who were looking for new forms and a new interpretation of art, contributed to this. The artists set themselves the task of showing that art can have a
utilitarian, rather than a decorative function. From this point on, the term "production art" appeared, which means art, which serves to the benefit of society and helps to fulfill its goals and objectives. It had an influence on the art of clothing. The clothes proposed by the constructiv'sts corresponded to the concept of expediency, convenience, and functionality. However, an important detail is that industrial art implied a "borrowing" of a technical approach since at that time technical progress and large-scale production was considered an advanced idea. Art became mechanical, which led to the fact that the new art, which served to benefit society, became the means of production on an industrial scale for mass consumption. However, if we consider this approach of large-scale production today, it becomes irrelevant, because today there is a serious problem of excessive production of clothes put on stream. The problem of hyper-consumption and over-production today is one of the most important world problems, which concerns not only the environmental aspect but also the relationship between a person and his perception of today's established consumption pattern. Nowadays, the production of clothing has become so large-scale that people do not have time to use all the proposed world market and manufactured clothing; as a result, the environment suffers.
Problem Statement
The goal of the project is to create a collection of modern, comfortable, functional clothes with a thoughtful design, based on the principles of rational consumption and translates the idea of a rational attitude to the environment. All items of clothing are made with the help of the reception upcycling of vintage industrial clothing. Industrial clothing is a reference to constructivist overalls and their approach to cut. The inspiration for the collection is also served by the principles invented by constructivist artists in the field of product processing, the approach to shaping and the ideas of functionality that are being rethought nowadays.
Delimitations of the study
In the course of a research project, the following questions were considered: How fast fashion affects the environment? What opportunities people have to rethink attitudes towards the consumption of clothing? How constructivist artists developed the idea of industrial clothing? What principles of work with clothes were proposed by constructivists?
Professional Significance
The professional significance lies in the fact that the project draws attention to the important problem of hyper-consumption, which can lead to a global catastrophe and attracts people to awareness. The project offers a collection of basic and comfortable clothing, which is one of the most requested categories in the field of clothing. The proposed clothing collection represents a modern interpretation of casual clothing that is in great demand in the global market. The theme of the project will be very useful to people who study the problem of excessive production and consumption and want to learn how to create garments, reconstructing old or unnecessary things. This technique will expand the boundaries of perception of clothing that is not in use and is considered unnecessary. The project can be useful to all people who are interested in eco-movement and promote the idea of sustainable fashion and reasonable consumption. The project is distinguished by its uniqueness since all garments are created from recycled overalls, which are considered universal clothing as a reference to constructivist artists, while all products are made with the highest quality and are broadcast and promoter of a reasonable attitude to the environment. The main objectives of the study are: to create a new brand of clothes based on recycling old ones; to draw attention to the idea that the old thing can have a second life; to create items of comfortable clothing for every day; to promote the idea of conscious consumption and attracting people to this issue in order to reconsider views on the production and consumption of wardrobe items.
2. Literature Review
In Yulia Tulovskaya's book "Avant-garde textiles. Drawings for fabric", (2016) the main accent is in the work of constructivist artists Lyubov Popova and Varvara Stepanova in the field of textiles costume and design, which they worked on in the 1920s. The author identifies very important aspects of the work of artists, techniques for working with color and figurative and discusses why the motifs proposed by the artists have become very popular and relevant until now. The development of drawings for textiles by artists is one of the most important areas, which opened a new vision for textiles and influenced its further development.
The book by G. Kovalenko "The Theater of Vera Mukhina", (2012) is a collection of the artist's key works and a story about her creative path and interaction with other artists. The book describes one of the hidden facets of the creative work of Vera Mukhina, which has always remained in the shadow of creating costumes for the theater. In the context of final qualifying work, one of the defining chapters in this book is the chapter devoted to the cooperation and friendship of Vera Mukhina and Nadezhda Lamanova. The artists united to create universal products of their kind for people, ranging from school uniforms, to costume for the actor. The artists created the album "Art in Everyday Life" with patterns that are calculated on the basis of the ideas of saving fabric and expediency, while the patterns look fashionable and stylish. The patterns help to draw a new collection of clothes that based on principles of sustainability in different ways.
The book by T. Strizhenova "From the history of the Soviet costume", (1972) is a voluminous description of Soviet fashion. The book describes how the costume changed depending on the fact that social and cultural changes took place in the country and the methods of work of designers and artists on the costume. One of the important chapters is the fashion in 1920, when major changes took place in the Russian state, which brought about a change in all areas, including fashion. In the context of research, this book helps to understand the cultural references that influenced on costume design. The costume is a very important part, with the help of which one can judge the cultural and social transformations in the state.
In Yulia Punanova's research article "The aesthetics of constructivism in the new costume", (2015) the author describes what conditions influenced the creation of a "new" costume in 1920. Among them: the new economic policy, the development of production as a means of creating mass clothing, the artistic search for constructivists who tried to create new clothes for the new state, based on 3 important tasks: expediency, utility, and rationality. In the article, Yulia Punanova talks about the fact that clothing is not just a means of protection from the external environment; this is a very important marker that responds to all changes in society and translates ideas that reflect a life position or a particular problem, mood. The author's remark that the constructivists' approach to the costume is to a certain extent derived from the influence of the traditional folk costume, which also served primarily important functions of the utility of things, is of interest. This article is very important for the project proposal since the author places a great emphasis on the idea of mass production being one of the most fundamental. This thought gave direction to the fact that rethinking large-scale production and addressing the problem of global consumption is a serious problem of our day and you need to find options for rethinking this phenomenon that is progressing in the modern world.
The magazine "LEF" (1924), devoted to the art of textiles and costume, contains a very important article called "The Suit of Today-Overalls", where all themes are formulated about how the clothes proposed by constructivist artists should look, what techniques are used to shape what replaces the decor, which is denied by the artists. According to Varvara Stepanova "...aesthetic elements are replaced by the production
process of the costume itself. Let me explain: do not attach ornaments to the costume, and the seams themselves, which are necessary in cut, give shape to the costume..." (1923 p.65). In the context of a project proposal, this information is very important, which gives an idea of what principles constructivists have put into the costume and how they can be represented in a modern clothing collection.
In the book by Elizabeth L. Cline "Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion", (2012) the author addresses not only the important problem of excessive production and its impact on the environment but also on people. The author attracts attention to slave labor and the inhuman conditions of seamstresses from Bangladesh, China and other countries who work for the mass giants in the field of fashion and produce fast fashion. The author examines the concept of cheap and fast fashion and its impact on production in the world. The book helps to find statistics for the project and research more widely the problem of consumption. The presented book allows to broaden the view of the problem of hyper-consumption and it is the source that can serve to create new projects related to the fast fashion problem.
The book "ReFashioned: Cutting Edge Clothing from Upcycled Materials by Sass Brown", (2013) is a great source of inspiration for working with the recycling theme which is the basis for creating a collection of clothes. The book contains a large amount of information and examples of how to create new things using the recycling technique. The author presents various techniques and options that help develop in the direction of sustainable fashion.
3. Methods
In order to determine the key fabrics manipulations that will allow making a sustainable collection of clothes based on principles of reasonable consumption the different methods of recycling and upcycling clothes in fashion will be researched and used. Firstly, will be reviewed the experience with recycling from European fashion schools and research universities that practice this method as one of the perspective methods for the future fashion industry. In this case, the practical book of Brown Sass "ReFashioned: Cutting-Edge Clothing from Upcycled Materials" is one of the key sources for analyzing and estimate which methods of work with textile materials can be used for this project. One of the main methods that will be used when creating a collection of clothes will be upcycling and cutting old or non-usable clothes from large size overalls. Secondly, it will describe and research key statistics about the type of garments that had a more harmful influence on the environment than other sorts of clothes. This study will make it possible to understand which category of things it should first look at in order to use things for recycling. Thirdly, the method of thorough study of the approach of the constructivist artists to the costume, which is a benchmark for the creation of a collection of clothes, historical sketches, publications, and applied art, will allow further study of the subject set in the framework of the project.
4.Results
As a result, a collection of clothes and multifunctional accessories based on the principles of reasonable consumption was presented. The main goal is to reflect the choice of textile material for the collection. At the heart of each product are vintage overalls from second-hand that produced by company "Havep", made from recycled materials. One of the main goals was the translation of the fact that the old or unnecessary things can have a second life and this idea is broadcasted in this collection of clothes, which is created from recycled items of clothing. Another important point was the result of the
study, is also expressed through materials of clothes collection. As a result of the usage of different techniques of recycling and upcycling further products will be an allegory to the topic of fast fashion and large consumption. The collection of clothes emphasize that beautiful, practical and fashionable clothing is not only the kind of clothing that produced on an industrial scale every day.
Sketches of the collection:
ill I!
5. Conclusion
To sum up, there are a lot of reasons that affect the environment, but the main problem of the study concerns the unconscious hyper-consumption of garments. Despite the fact that constructivist artists, who are the reference in the project, offered the idea of universal clothing, their task was in putting the products on stream and in large-scale production. In the context of the project, the approach to clothing as a large-scale production is being reinterpreted, and the options for working with cut, shape and details proposed by constructivists are a source of inspiration. The goal of the project is the idea of translating the fact that the approach to universal clothing, which today is called basic, can be rethought in favor of reasonable consumption and use of recycling and upcycling techniques. The project is also based on various developments with materials in the upcycling technique, which are well described by Sass Brown in the Re-fashioned book and draws attention to the change in a person's attitude towards unnecessary or unused things. As a result of this study, a new brand for women was created which includes a collection of clothes characterized by minimalistic, modern and functional clothes with a complex and thoughtful cut. This is clothing that does not lose its own relevance, so it is a reflection of a sustainable fashion from silhouette to material embodiment. The collection consists of basic items that are based on the concept of a brand founded on reasonable consumption. The presented project provides a large field of activity for the creation of future collections based on the key approach- upcycling, which is studied in detail in this project and the principles of which served as the basis for creating the brand concept.
REFERENCES
Cline, E. L. (2012). Overdressed: the shockingly high cost of cheap fashion. London: Penguin.
Punanova, Yu. S. (2015). The aesthetics of constructivism in the new costume. Moscow: Bulletin of the Moscow State University of Culture and Arts.
Red niva: art in everyday life: 36 tables. (1925). Moscow: The General Artistic Editing of J. A. Tugendhold.
Sass, B. (2013). ReFashioned: cutting-edge clothing from upcycled materials. London: Laurence King Publishing.
Stepanova, V.F. (1923). The costume of today is overalls. Moscow; Petrograd: State Publishing House: LEF: Left Front Art Journal No. 2.
Strizhenova, T.K. (1972). From the history of the Soviet costume. Moscow: Soviet Artist. Tulovskaya, J. (2016). Avant-garde Textiles. Drawings for fabric. Ekaterinburg: TATLIN.
