CC BY
3УДК 7.012 https://doi.org/10.24412/2617-149X-2023-2-56-59
Исследование использования законов формальной красоты в традиционном костюме народа Орокен
в Китае
Сяотун Тан, Цзяхуэй Пин Цицикарский университет, Цицикар (Китай)
E-mail: [email protected]
Аннотация. Традиционная одежда народа Орокен в Китае - это отображение знаний и представлений народа Орокен о мире природы в их длительной социальной жизни и производстве, а также реальных эмоций. В данной работе с точки зрения художественной композиции дизайна уточняется исследование формального закона красоты китайского ороченского узора одежды, обобщаются пять аспектов формального закона красоты, используемых в ороченском традиционном узоре одежды, включая изменение и единство, контраст и гармонию, ритм и рифму, симметрию и баланс. Исследование художественных особенностей традиционных моделей одежды этнической группы Орокен в Китае не только играет роль наследства для развития собственной этнической группы, но и играет положительную роль в содействии модернизации китайского национального костюма.
Ключевые слова: Орокен, мотивы одежды, формальные законы красоты.
Research on the Utilization of the Laws of Formal Beauty in the Traditional Costume Patterns of the Oroqen People
in China
Xiaotong Tang, JiaHui Ping Qiqihar University, Qiqihar (China)
E-mail: [email protected]
Annotation. The traditional dress pattern of Oroqen people in China is the mapping of Oroqen people's knowledge and understanding of the natural world in their long-term social life and production, as well as the real emotions. In this paper, from the point of view of artistic design composition, the research on the formal beauty law of Chinese Oroqen clothing pattern is refined, and five aspects of formal beauty law used in Oroqen traditional clothing pattern are summarized, including change and unity, contrast and harmony, rhythm and rhyme, symmetry and balance. The Research of the artistic characteristics of traditional dress patterns of Oroqen ethnic group in China not only has the role of inheritance for the development of their own ethnic group, but also has a positive role in promoting the modernization of Chinese national costumes.
Key words: Oroqen, dress motifs, formal beauty laws.
Citation:
China has been a multi-ethnic country since ancient times. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, there are 56 ethnic groups officially recognized by the central government, Oroqen is one of the 56 ethnic groups in China. In the Far East of the Russian Federation, there are also Oroqen people, who are called OROCHI in Russia. Due to the overlap of ethnic settlement, the Oroqen people in Russia are no longer an independent ethnic group, but have been integrated with the Nanai people in Russia.
The Oroqen of China is an ancient Tungus ethnic group in the northeast of China, they are a less populated ethnic group with migratory hunting as their main way of life, they have been living in the large and small Xing'anling areas of China for generations, they are called "mountain people" and "reindeer people", because roe deer skin used by them is called OROCHI. Their roe deer skin making skill was listed as one of the topics in national intangible cultural heritage program in 2008. The dress art style of Oroqen ethnic group, which is mainly based on hunting culture, shows the special
custom culture and historical background of this ethnic group. It also reflects that the living environment of Oroqen people is relatively closed, and the development of their dress art is extremely slow. Therefore, the study of Oroqen's traditional dress pattern art features not only has the role of inheritance for the development of their own ethnicity, but also has a positive role in promoting the modernization of China's national costumes.
Main article:
Pattern refers to some kind of artifacts of the shape of the structure, color, ornamentation process and predesigned construction plan, made of drawings, commonly known as pattern. Patterns as "organized meaning" of the object, through the visual effect of human perception, adapts to the choice of the human visual system to bring people psychological pleasure. Oroqen traditional dress pattern is Oroqen people's knowledge and understanding of the natural world in the long-term social life and production, as well as the mapping of the real emotions from their hearts, Oroqen traditional dress pattern develops along with the change of Oroqen people's aesthetic interests, and has experienced the development process from figurative to abstract, from a single graphic to the innovative graphic created according to their own aesthetic consciousness at a later stage. Due to the special living environment of Oroqen people, the materials of Oroqen traditional costumes are mostly based on animal fur, so their costume patterns are usually relatively rough and bold, with strong three-dimensional aesthetics, and their production methods are mainly used in the form of appliqued fabrics, embroidery, bead embroidery, etc. These forms are simple and clear. The expression of these forms is simple and clear, and has a strong degree of recognition, which creates the overall shape of Oroqen traditional clothing as simple and natural, and has the unique temperament of the hunting nation in the mountains and forests, as shown in Figure 1.
Formal beauty law is the summarization and abstract generalization of the experience of human beings in the process of creating the beauty form and beauty law. Mastering the formal beauty law can make people more consciously use it to express the beauty content and achieve a high degree of unity between the formal beauty law and the beauty content. The traditional costumes of Oroqen people in China show the special aesthetics of Oroqen people. Based on the results of data collection and field investigation, the research in this paper has refined the laws of formal beauty used in the art of Oroqen clothing pattern from the perspective of artistic design composition, and summarized the following four aspects:
1. Change and unity.
Oroqen traditional dress pattern is rich, varied and complex, which not only gives people a sharp and strong sense of visual impact, but also maintains the visual unity of the dress as a whole. Due to the use of this formal
Figure 1 - Oroqen traditional fur clothing
beauty law, it increases the vividness and composition beauty, avoids monotony and dullness. It gives the whole pattern design composition main, secondary and orderly depth, so as to create the visual effect of coordination, richness and completeness. For example, the Oroqen satchel is usually decorated with large-area pattern, as shown in Figure 2. This large-area pattern is usually composed of several different patterns selected and located in a unified way, which not only makes the clothing more natural and unified, but also strengthens the visual impact and decorative aesthetic implication of this national costume.
2. Contrast and harmonization.
Oroqen traditional dress pattern usually combines several visual elements with great contrast to create the
Figure 2 - Oroqen Satchel
feeling of the distinct and strong difference between the elements. These elements also have the basic fusion to make the pattern of Oroqen traditional dress more prominent. The visual effect is more distinctive and it shows the formal aesthetic law of the clothing. An example is the contrast of thickness of patterns on Oroqen traditional women's gloves (Fig. 3): you can see the contrast of warm and cold colors of embroidery yarn, the contrast of how different materials feel - fur and bright color satin. All of these features are the beauty of the contrast and reconciliation of Oroqen traditional dress pattern design composition.
Figure 3 - Colorful embroidery on gloves
3. Rhythm and rhyme.
Rhythm in the composition design refers to the same visual elements of continuous repetition of the sense of movement. Simple combination of repetitions is monotonous, it is made by the regular changes in the image arrangement, so that it creates a kind of melody similar to music and poetry, known as rhythm. The rhythm formal beauty and rhyme is mainly embodied in the use of Oroqen's dress pattern in the late period. After the cloth, satin and colorful silk threads were imported to Oroqen area, it put new vitality into the robe culture. The silk cloth is easy to cut and sew, it can be used to highlight the beauty of curve, and the women wore it to be more graceful and elegant. The use of colorful embroidery threads makes Oroqen people's embroideries colorful and lifelike. The fur combined with colorful silk cloth in dress making, the use of curves and straight lines combined with the way of cutting, the color and texture of the material, as well as the setting of the pattern reflect the unique rhythm and rhythmic beauty. For example, Oroqen dress pattern design composition is known for using the flower and grass pattern, water cloud pattern, antler pattern, etc. This kind of "S"-shaped curve pattern is often used in the cuffs and neckline of the garment and around the hem (Fig. 4), it gives the garment a sense of smoothness. The water, flower and grass patterns in the headdresses creates the sense of jumping and a sense of rhythm. Rhythmic pattern composition design makes the Oroqen traditional dress positive and strengthens the special charm of the dress.
Figure 4 - Oroqen people in Oroqen costumes and headdresses
4. Symmetry and balance.
The formal beauty of symmetry and balance of Oroqen traditional dress pattern is embodied by the distribution of size, weight and color of graphic elements. Due to the use of this law, Oroqen clothing visually gives a stable, even, coordinated, neat, solemn and elegant image of beauty. For example, the pattern design on the fur shoulder of Oroqen traditional costumes fully embodies the formal beauty law of symmetry and balance (Fig. 5), which is specifically manifested in the pattern design of the cuff side and the pattern design under the lapel.
Figure 5 - Oroqen Fur Shoulder
The double side slits of Oroqen women's robes are usually decorated with beautiful floral patterns, and the slits are usually having cloud-shaped symmetrical patterns (Fig. 6). The sleeves and the corners of the clothes are usually coordinated, and these patterns
are very symmetrical and balanced. The origin of this aesthetic concept of Oroqen people is directly related to the observation of the surrounding world. Oroqen think that the shapes of people, animals and plants in nature
Figure 6 -Cloud-shaped symmetrical pattern at the slit position of Oroqen robes
should be symmetrical, and if they not balanced, they cannot be beautiful.
The beauty of the pattern of Oroqen traditional dress creates artistic characteristics in the Oroqen traditional dress. At the same time, it also gives Oroqen traditional dress a high aesthetic value. The formal beauty of patterns in Oroqen traditional costumes is an important part of the artistic characteristics of Chinese minority costumes, which contains the wisdom of Oroqen people over the centuries. With the acceleration of national integration, it is difficult to preserve the artistic characteristics of Oroqen traditional costumes. Only by improving the research and innovation on the characteristics of Oroqen traditional dress art, the preservation and continuation of national art can be promoted, and better inheritance and development of the traditional dress art of China's ethnic minorities made.
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