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5Oriental Renaissance: Innovative, educational, natural and social sciences
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MANUFACTURING OF CLOTHES WITH DIFFERENT STRUCTURES
OF ARTISTIC FELT
Saidova Ziyoda Mirvasilovna
Senior lecturer, National Institute of Art and Design named after Kamoliddin Bekhzod
ABSTRACT
The article deals with the problem of felting folk arts and crafts. The subject of the research is the synthesis of traditional felting technologies and modern scientific and technical developments. The prospects for the use of new techniques, methods and technologies in the traditional process of creating textile materials are considered on the example of felting.
Key words: Felt, wool, artistic felting, innovative and traditional technolo-gies, nunofelting, wet felting, folk arts and crafts.
АННОТАЦИЯ
В данной статье иследуется проблема войлоковаляния народного декоративно-прикладного творчества. Предметом изучения являются синтез традиционных технологий войлока и современных научно-технических разработок. Рассмотрены перспективы использования новых методов и технологий в традиционном процессе создания текстильных изделий на примере войлоковаляния.
Ключевые слова: Войлок, шерсть, художественное войлоковаляние, инновационные и традиционные технологии, нунофелтинг, мокрое валяние, народное декоративно-прикладное творчество.
ANNOTATSIYA
Ushbu maqolada kigiz bo'yicha xalq amaliy san'ati va hunarmandchiligi muammosi ko'rib chiqiladi. Tadqiqotpredmeti an'anaviy kigizlash texnologiyalari va zamonaviy ilmiy-texnik ishlanmalarning sintezidir. To 'qimachilik materiallarini yaratishning an 'anaviy jarayonida yangi texnika, usul va texnologiyalardan foydalanish istiqbollari namatchilik misolida ko'rib chiqiladi.
Kalit so'zlar: Kigiz, jun, badiiy kigiz, innovatsion va an'anaviy texnologiyalar, nunofelting, ho'l kigiz, xalq amaliy san'ati va hunarmandchiligi.
INTRODUCTION
Is there a need to develop this topic? After all, there is not a single serious scientific work devoted to felt. There is no scientific literature, considering the historical process of formation of this art and the current state of felting. Felt felting is usually considered as a historical component of the peoples, in the form of small
Oriental Renaissance: Innovative, educational, natural and social sciences
SJIF 2024 = 6.131 / ASI Factor = 1.7
articles or chapters included in review publications on folk art. It is this lack of sources that allows us to talk about the relevance of the study. It is inadmissible to leave without due attention the handicraft, the life-determining for many peoples, a type of decorative and applied art, which has an extensive base of methods, techniques and promising prospects for development.
The above will allow us to set the following tasks: to present the history of felting, to familiarize with the traditional methods of making and decorating felt, to expand the scope of application, to show the tendency to representativeness.
Felt is a material made by felting wool. It is a felted material, and is used in various industries [1]. Therefore, many people ask the question - what is it like, clothes made of felt? And imagine something rough, not like anything...more like an art object, but not as a wearable garment. To understand this it is necessary to understand whether this definition can be considered exhaustive, as well as why now in the era of modern materials and technologies there is interest in felting techniques that appeared in ancient times.
Felt felting is perhaps the oldest technique of making products from wool, which goes back to the roots in the folk culture of the peoples inhabiting the territory of Altai, Bashkiria, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, etc.
There is a legend that the first felt carpet was made by sheep themselves on the Ark of Noah during the flood. The sheep that floated on it, dropped part of their wool on the floor, it in turn got wet and trampled by the hooves of these sheep. When the animals left the ark, a dense non-woven woolen carpet was left in that place. Thus the distant ancestors discovered the marvelous property of natural wool to tangle and collapse, turning into a cloth.
DISCUSSION AND RESULTS
Nomads were the first to appreciate the versatility of the material: they made of it yurts, interior items, clothing and hats, carpets and pillows, bedspreads, bags for transportation of goods, bedding for livestock. Felt was also attributed therapeutic properties. Felt belts treated people from sciatica and arthritis. Strips of felt cloth were used for massage, which, according to ancient nomads, had a beneficial effect on blood circulation and also helped to get rid of back pain. Stimulating blood circulation and creating an electrostatic field wool fibers have a positive effect on well-being and mood. This was relevant for nomads - people who are constantly in the wind [1].
Felt felting is a bright, original phenomenon of world culture, which has well-established traditions and at the same time a significant potential for the development of new technologies.
Oriental Renaissance: Innovative, educational, natural and social sciences
SJIF 2024 = 6.131 / ASI Factor = 1.7
Modern felting is based on the experience accumulated over many centuries, actively using the creative work of many generations. Felting techniques used since the emergence of felting and new enriching applications of felting have been studied.
Technology of felting.
The technology of creating felt involves exclusively manual labor and appeared long before the advent of looms and knitting tools. Products made of felt and felt are very popular not only in Russia and Europe, in recent years and our designers pay special interest to it. In its manufacture use the wool of sheep, as well as use wool alpaca, camel, yak, goat.
Nowadays the same techniques and methods of working with wool are used as several millennia ago, such technology is called "wet felting", which remains the main one when new mixed techniques appear [2].
Small products are felting by hand, and some manipulations are very similar to kneading dough. The process of felting can be divided into the main operations:
- laying out layer by layer of wool, taking into account the laid shrinkage during felting, introducing the felting decoration;
- initial felting, equalizing the shape of the semi-finished product;
- the actual process of felting, with constant control and correction of the shape;
- final finishing of the product.
Having mastered the technique of felting, you can create various compositions, utilitarian things that meet aesthetic and artistic requirements.
When felting wool it is worth mentioning also a special direction in felting technology - dry felting, or filtzing. When filzovanie as a working tool use a special filzovalnaya needle, on which at different angles are made notches, serrations. These serrations help to pick out from the general wool mass of individual wools and slowly entangle them, forming a felted material. Often the method of felting is not made in the usual sense of the material, but small items - toys, decorative crafts, small parts for women's and men's accessories. This method is ideal for making and forming three-dimensional products, while you can help yourself with your hands, pulling out any element if necessary.
To wool for artistic felting today added silk, linen, cotton, bamboo and protein milk, synthetic and other fibers. An experimental trend has become a mixed technique, combining needle felting and wet felting techniques. Traditional methods of felting are harmoniously complemented by innovative techniques such as nunofelting or nunovelock, which is the piling of wool fibers to fabric (silk) [3].
Oriental Renaissance: Innovative, (E)ISSN: 2181-1784
educational, natural and social sciences 4(01), Jan., 2024
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For the first time products made in this technique were presented in 1994 by the authors of this method - Australian textile designer Polly Stirling and her assistant -Japanese designer Sachiko Kotako.
Fig. 1. A dress made of felt using the Nunofelting technique.
Felting - from craft to art.
Contemporary felting art works both with traditional forms, giving birth to unique exhibition samples aimed at creating complex sentimental images, and with new ones, reflecting the author's exclusive understanding of form, color and material. As the artists-applied artists master the possibilities of felting technique, its richness and diversity, through a series of experiments, successes and mistakes, a bright, multifaceted world of felting is formed. Mastering the technology of creating three-dimensional forms allows artists to make the transition from toys to small sculptural forms, interior installations, jewelry and clothing.
Recently felting has been enriched with new methods of work, which allow you to create previously unused textures and three-dimensional forms. There is a distinction between felting "wet", or wet felting with the use of most traditional techniques, when the wool is wet with soap solution or milk whey after laying out, and dry felting, when felting is carried out due to forced entanglement of wool fibers with the help of a needle of a special shape.
Oriental Renaissance: Innovative, (E)ISSN: 2181-1784
educational, natural and social sciences 4(01), Jan., 2024
SJIF 2024 = 6.131 / ASI Factor = 1.7 www.oriens.uz
Fig.2. Making felt using different textures.
We can also talk about the works of folk Russian masters as S.V. Shemyakina, supplementing their works of felt with elements of embroidery, beads, knitting, successfully applying the techniques of contact dyeing and eco-printing, T.Y. Bannikova, specializing in the manufacture of panels based on traditional patterns and ornaments, I.V. Pishchenko, combining ancient techniques with new technologies, added to the cultural heritage of felting [4].
But unfortunately domestic masters who are engaged in nunofelting counted number, sisters Lola and Dina Saifi create a collection of clothes made of felt with the addition of different textures and ornaments.
Fig.3 Collection of designer Dina Saifi. Summer dress made of wool. "It is from wool in melange with natural silk that this summer dress is made. The process of its creation is a whole story. First, the finest New Zealand wool is mixed with silk threads and felting, producing a light
Oriental Renaissance: Innovative, educational, natural and social sciences
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translucent fabric. Then the real magic begins - ecoprints are applied to the fabric. Natural motifs are created from real leaves and flowers: with the help of a special technique, the natural pigment of plants is imprinted on the fabric. Such a thing can be called unique!" note the designers in their social pages.
Fig.4 Collection of designers Lola and Dina Saifi.
Recently, students of K. Behzoda have also more often used felting technique in their collections. One of such works is a diploma collection of models by student Omina Mavsurkhonova. She offers artistic design of clothes made of felt with 3D elements. In the experimental part of this work developed a collection of models of women's half-coat and skirt, which is obtained by wet felting with 3D decorative elements in ethnic motif. In the patterns of this collection the national pattern was taken as a basis.
Developed in this work method of decorating felt in the future contribute to a wide application in the design of felt garments.
Fig.5 Collection of designers Omina Mavsurkhonova.
Oriental Renaissance: Innovative, educational, natural and social sciences
SJIF 2024 = 6.131 / ASI Factor = 1.7
Based on the above, we can state that felting in the historical dimension of folk arts and crafts goes from making everyday things to modern art objects, which becomes possible with the use of not only traditional but also modern technologies that are used in professional circles of various masters of decorative and applied arts in particular and in Uzbekistan. From this point of view, the revival of felting and the development of new technologies should be considered as a modern socio-cultural phenomenon.
REFERENCES
1. Sempels E.B.. "Encyclopedia of felting."- Series: Return of mastery. Izd.: Fashion and Needlework, 2008.
2. Bernyukova A.S. "Application of felting technologies in the manufacture of modern clothing" International Student Scientific Bulletin. 2017.-№ 6.
3. Zaretskaya G.P., Goncharova T.L., Pavlova N.M. "Modern methods of decorating clothes from felt". Design and Technology-2017.-#59- pp.49-59
4. Bektemirova L.S. "Development of methods of modification of clothes from felt on the basis of combinatorial principles". Dissertation for a thesis of the academic degree of Candidate of Technical Sciences -M.-2013, 176 p.
5. Nebogatova K. Neretina L.V. "Felt making: traditions and modernity". International Student Scientific Forum. 2012.
