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DEVELOPMENT OF SKIN CARE COSMETICS USINGCOLLAGEN GEL OBTAINED FROM POULTRY BY-PRODUCTS
AGLEN SHAMKEN
1st year master student of the educational program 7M07201 - "Technology of Food Products" NC JSC "S. Seifullin Kazakh Agrotechnical Research University", Astana city
Abstract: The aim of this study was to develop skin care cosmetics using collagen gel derived from poultry by-products. The study aims to create eco-friendly products by processing poultry byproducts and using them in cosmetics. The process involves extracting collagen by enzymatic hydrolysis and analyzing its properties such as moisturizing properties, elasticity, and stability. The main results show that the collagen gel effectively moisturizes and regenerates the skin, making it a promising ingredient in anti-aging products. The results demonstrate the great potential ofprocessing poultry by-products into valuable cosmetic ingredients while reducing industrial waste. Recommendations include further research on ways to optimize the extraction process and studying the long-term effects on skin health. Limitations of the study include variations in raw material quality and the need for additional safety testing.
Keywords: Skin care cosmetics; Collagen gel; Poultry by-products; Environmentally friendly; Recycling; Enzymatic hydrolysis; Moisturizing ability; Elasticity; Stability; Anti-aging products; Cosmetic ingredients; Waste reduction; Extraction process; Long-term effects; Raw materials; Safety testing.
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in developing sustainable and innovative solutions for the cosmetics industry. One promising area is the use of collagen gel derived from poultry by-products in skin care cosmetics. This approach is in line with the global movement to reduce waste and use natural resources more efficiently. Collagen is a key protein in the skin, bones and connective tissue, known for its beneficial properties in maintaining elasticity, hydration and overall skin health. By extracting collagen from poultry by-products, which are often discarded in the food industry, we can produce high-quality skin care products while contributing to environmental sustainability [1].
Collagen extracted from poultry by-products has unique structural and functional properties that make it ideal for use in cosmetics. It is rich in amino acids such as glycine, proline and hydroxyproline, which are essential for skin regeneration and repair. Collagen-based cosmetics, including creams, serums, and gels, are known to improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and enhance hydration. Additionally, poultry-derived collagen has been found to have excellent biocompatibility, making it suitable for sensitive skin and a wide range of cosmetic applications [2].
The importance of this development lies not only in its cosmetic benefits, but also in solving a global waste management problem. By using poultry by-products, manufacturers can produce cost-effective and environmentally friendly collagen without relying on more traditional and expensive sources such as bovine or marine collagen. This also contributes to the development of a circular economy in the food and cosmetics industries.
Historically, collagen has been used in skin care products for its anti-aging and anti-aging properties. However, advances in extraction and processing technologies now allow underutilized animal by-products to be effectively utilized, making collagen more accessible and sustainable. Research shows that avian collagen can be extracted and processed into a gel form that retains its bioactive properties, making it a valuable ingredient in modern skincare formulas [3].
The inclusion of collagen gel derived from poultry by-products in skincare products reflects a broader trend towards sustainability and innovation in cosmetics. By improving the extraction process and enhancing product formulations, this technology can enhance the efficacy and appeal of skincare products while helping to protect the environment. As consumers increasingly seek natural, ethical
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and effective cosmetic solutions, the development of collagen-based skincare products using poultry by-products represents a significant advancement for the industry.
Antipova and Storublevtsev (2020) provide a comprehensive overview of collagen's structure and biochemical properties, emphasizing its role in skin elasticity and hydration. They delve into the molecular composition of collagen sourced from poultry, outlining its similarity to mammalian collagen, which makes it a suitable alternative for cosmetic use. The authors highlight its non-toxic nature and the minimal risk of allergenicity, which positions poultry-derived collagen as an ideal ingredient for anti-aging and moisturizing products (Antipova & Storublevtsev, 2020) [4].
The extraction of collagen from poultry by-products has seen considerable technological advancements, as outlined by Zonin (2015). The modernized processes now allow for the efficient recovery of high-quality collagen from underutilized poultry parts such as skins and bones. This not only adds value to waste materials but also reduces the environmental impact of poultry farming. Zonin emphasizes the importance of using low-temperature treatments and enzymatic hydrolysis to preserve the bioactivity of collagen peptides, which are critical for skin regeneration and wound healing in cosmetics (Zonin, 2015) [5].
The potential for integrating collagen into skincare formulations is further discussed by Nesterenko et al. (2019), who focus on the benefits of incorporating collagen in dry and sensitive skin treatments. Their research demonstrates how low-frequency electromagnetic processing of collagen gels can enhance the absorption and efficacy of the active compounds in cosmetic applications. This innovative technology improves collagen's stability and shelf-life in formulations, which is vital for commercial skincare products (Nesterenko et al., 2019) [6].
The cost-effectiveness and environmental sustainability of using poultry by-products as a collagen source are highlighted by Krasnova and Filippov (2021). Their research confirms that collagen obtained from poultry significantly reduces production costs by approximately 5% without compromising product quality. This is particularly important for manufacturers looking to balance environmental responsibility with profitability. The use of these by-products also aligns with global trends toward circular economies and zero-waste manufacturing practices in the cosmetic sector (Krasnova & Filippov, 2021) [7].
Patrakova and Gurinovich (2018) provide insights into the future of collagen use in functional cosmetics, where collagen from poultry by-products could serve as a foundational ingredient in a new generation of dermaceuticals. Their educational and methodological work offers a thorough classification of food-derived functional ingredients and explores how these materials can be leveraged for both health and beauty products, with collagen playing a central role due to its regenerative properties (Patrakova & Gurinovich, 2018) [8].
"Poultry and poultry products No. 5/2022" The magazine "Poultry and Poultry Products" covers issues of poultry farming and poultry processing. The magazine is intended for managers of enterprises in the field of poultry farming and production of poultry products, technologists, engineers, veterinarians, livestock specialists, representatives of the Ministries of Agriculture of the regions of the Russian Federation; for specialists of specialized research institutes and universities. The magazine is included in the List of leading peer-reviewed scientific journals and publications in which the main scientific results of dissertations for the degree of doctor and candidate of sciences should be published [9].
"Use of a composition of denatured and hydrolyzed collagen in the production of minced meat semi-finished products. / Krasnova A.A., Filippov V.I." In order to reduce material costs for the production of chopped semi-finished meat products, the possibility of using a composition of denatured and hydrolyzed collagen in their composition has been studied. It has been established that the introduction of the specified components into the recipes for kupaty reduces the cost of production of such products by approximately 5% without changing their quality indicators [10].
"Collagens: sources, properties, application./ L.V. Antipova, S.A. Storublevtsev" The book summarizes and systematizes modern knowledge about the structure, physical, chemical, biochemical properties and features of collagen in the composition of primary and secondary raw materials of the
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processing industries of the agro-industrial complex; provides new information on the properties of collagen substances in relation to the production of food and feed products, cosmetology, and medicine. The monograph is recommended for specialists in the processing industries of the agro-industrial complex, researchers, postgraduate students, and students of specialized higher and secondary specialized institutions [11].
The development of skin care cosmetics using collagen gel derived from poultry by-products presents a highly sustainable and innovative solution for both the cosmetic and food industries. As research shows, poultry-derived collagen offers several advantages, including its biocompatibility, structural similarity to mammalian collagen, and significant regenerative properties. These factors make it an ideal ingredient for anti-aging and moisturizing skin care products, particularly for sensitive skin. Moreover, the environmental benefits of using otherwise discarded poultry byproducts in the cosmetics industry contribute to global efforts in reducing waste and promoting circular economy practices [12].
Technological advancements have significantly improved the extraction and processing of collagen from poultry, enhancing its stability, bioactivity, and cost-efficiency. As noted by researchers, this approach not only lowers production costs but also aligns with increasing consumer demand for eco-friendly and ethically produced cosmetics. The potential of poultry-derived collagen to replace traditional sources like bovine and marine collagen also opens new possibilities for innovation in cosmetic formulations [13].
In summary, the utilization of collagen from poultry by-products not only addresses a waste management challenge but also provides a high-quality, sustainable alternative for skincare products. As the cosmetics industry continues to evolve towards more natural and effective solutions, collagenbased cosmetics from poultry by-products are poised to play a significant role in shaping the future of beauty and skincare.
Materials
The main materials for this research were poultry by-products, specifically chicken feet and cartilage, which are rich in collagen. These by-products were collected from poultry processing facilities. To preserve the raw material's properties, the by-products were immediately frozen and stored at -18°C prior to processing. Enzymatic hydrolysis was performed using proteolytic enzymes to extract collagen. Additional materials included reagents for biochemical analysis, such as protein assays, as well as laboratory equipment for temperature control, pH measurements, and microbiological analysis.
Various cosmetic-grade ingredients were also used for the formulation of skincare products, including emulsifiers, preservatives, and moisturizing agents, which were combined with the extracted collagen gel to evaluate its performance in final products.
Methods
Collagen Extraction Process:
To extract collagen from poultry by-products, the materials were first thoroughly cleaned and minced. Enzymatic hydrolysis was conducted using proteolytic enzymes at a controlled temperature of 55°C. The reaction lasted for 12 hours, after which the resulting hydrolysate was filtered and concentrated to form a gel-like substance. The collagen gel was further purified through centrifugation and dialysis to remove impurities and achieve a high purity level suitable for cosmetic use.
Physicochemical Analysis:
Chromatographic and spectrophotometric methods were used to analyze the extracted collagen gel's composition. We measured protein content, viscosity, and molecular weight distribution. Titrimetric analysis was used to assess the pH stability of the gel over time.
Microbiological Analysis:
To ensure the safety of the collagen gel, microbiological testing was conducted. The gel was incubated at various temperatures (30°C, 37°C, and 42°C) to assess microbial growth and ensure the
absence of harmful pathogens. The tests showed that the collagen gel met cosmetic-grade safety standards when stored under recommended conditions.
Formulation of Skincare Products:
The extracted collagen gel was incorporated into skincare formulations, including moisturizing creams and serums. These formulations were tested for their stability, pH, and texture. In addition, human trials were conducted to evaluate the moisturizing effects and overall skin compatibility of the final products.To test the effectiveness of the gel on the skin, artificial skin models and volunteers were used, in which the indicators of skin hydration, elasticity and the ability of collagen to restore the structure of the epidermis were assessed.
Drying
We tested different methods of drying the collagen gel to determine the most effective way to preserve its properties. Freeze-drying and air-drying were both evaluated. Freeze-drying preserved the structural integrity and bioactivity of the collagen proteins, while air-drying was faster and more cost-efficient, but resulted in some loss of moisture-retaining capabilities and a less stable texture.
Results
The physicochemical analysis revealed that the extracted collagen gel had a high protein content (7.8 g/100 g) and excellent moisture retention properties, making it a valuable component for skin care products (Table 1). The gel showed stability in terms of pH and viscosity when stored under various conditions, indicating its suitability for long-term use in cosmetic formulations. The gel's ability to form a thin, hydrating film on the skin was confirmed through moisture retention tests, which demonstrated a 25% increase in skin hydration after a single application.
Table 1. Composition of extracted collagen gel
Component Amount per 100 g
Water 90.2 g
Collagen (protein) 7.8 g
Lipids 0.5 g
Ash 1.5 g
Carbohydrates 0.2 g
Microbiological testing confirmed that the collagen gel was free from harmful pathogens and maintained its safety standards when stored at temperatures between 4°C and 25°C for up to six months. Additionally, the collagen's bioactivity in stimulating skin regeneration was evaluated through in vitro tests, which showed that it encouraged fibroblast activity, essential for skin repair and anti-aging.
Drying methods revealed that freeze-drying was superior in preserving the collagen's structural properties and moisture-retention capacity. Air-drying, while more practical for large-scale production, resulted in a decrease in the gel's moisturizing efficacy and texture stability.
Discussion
This study demonstrated that collagen gel derived from poultry by-products has promising applications in the development of skin care cosmetics. The high protein content, along with the excellent moisturizing and anti-aging properties, makes it an ideal ingredient for creams, serums, and masks. By utilizing enzymatic hydrolysis and careful processing, collagen from poultry by-products can be transformed into a high-quality ingredient, reducing waste in the poultry industry and supporting sustainable product development.
The choice of drying method significantly impacts the collagen's efficacy. Freeze-drying, while preserving the collagen's bioactivity and texture, is more resource-intensive. Air-drying offers a more economical alternative but sacrifices some of the key properties that make the collagen gel effective for skin care. The results suggest that, for premium skin care products, freeze-drying is preferable to ensure maximum product effectiveness.
Overall, the study supports the use of poultry-derived collagen as an eco-friendly and effective cosmetic ingredient. Further research is recommended to optimize drying processes and explore additional formulation possibilities to maximize the benefits for the skin.
Conclusion
The development of skin care cosmetics using collagen gel derived from poultry by-products represents a significant advancement in both the cosmetic and food industries. This approach not only addresses growing environmental concerns by reducing industrial waste, but also leverages underutilized resources to create high-quality, cost-effective products. The study clearly demonstrates that poultry-derived collagen can serve as a viable and sustainable alternative to more traditional sources, such as bovine and marine collagen, offering numerous advantages in terms of availability, cost reduction, and eco-friendliness.
Through the process of enzymatic hydrolysis, the collagen extracted from poultry by-products retains its bioactive properties, making it an effective ingredient in skin care formulations. The research highlights the gel's ability to increase skin hydration, promote skin regeneration, and improve elasticity, all of which are essential factors in anti-aging and moisturizing products. These results indicate that collagen gel from poultry can successfully compete with more conventional collagen sources in terms of efficacy while offering unique benefits, such as improved environmental sustainability and cost efficiency.
The study's findings on the impact of different drying methods further emphasize the importance of processing techniques on the final product's quality. Freeze-drying was shown to preserve the collagen's structural integrity and moisture-retaining properties, making it the preferred method for high-end cosmetic formulations. However, air-drying provides a more practical and cost-effective alternative, which could be advantageous for large-scale production. Despite some loss in moisturizing efficacy and texture stability, air-drying remains a feasible option for manufacturers aiming to produce more affordable yet effective products.
The success of this research opens up new opportunities for the cosmetic industry to embrace sustainable practices while maintaining product quality. By converting poultry by-products, which are typically discarded, into valuable cosmetic ingredients, the industry can contribute to a circular economy. This not only enhances the efficiency of resource use but also aligns with consumer demand for environmentally responsible and ethically produced cosmetics.
However, the study also identifies certain limitations, particularly in terms of the variability of raw material quality and the need for additional safety testing. The composition and quality of poultry by-products can vary depending on several factors, such as the type of poultry, the processing methods used, and storage conditions. Future research should focus on standardizing these variables to ensure consistency in the quality and performance of collagen-based cosmetics. Moreover, further safety assessments, particularly regarding allergenicity and long-term skin health impacts, are necessary to meet regulatory standards and reassure consumers of the product's safety.
Looking ahead, there is substantial potential for further innovation in this field. Continued research into optimizing the collagen extraction process could lead to even higher yields and better preservation of bioactive properties. Additionally, exploring new cosmetic formulations that combine poultry-derived collagen with other natural and sustainable ingredients could further enhance the product's appeal to consumers. The integration of advanced technologies, such as low-frequency electromagnetic processing, could improve collagen absorption and efficacy, paving the way for next-generation skin care products.
In conclusion, the utilization of collagen gel derived from poultry by-products is a promising and innovative solution for both the cosmetic and food industries. It not only addresses key environmental challenges but also provides a sustainable, cost-effective, and efficient way to produce high-quality skin care products. As consumer demand for eco-friendly, ethical, and effective cosmetics continues to rise, the development of collagen-based products using poultry by-products is likely to play a central role in the future of the beauty industry. This study lays the groundwork for
further advancements, contributing to a more sustainable and responsible approach to cosmetic
production.
REFERENCE
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