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Abstracts. PHYTOPHARM 2017
COMPOSITION AND TECHNOLOGY DEVELOPMENT OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS BASED ON EXTRACTS OF GINKGO BILOBA LEAVES TO PREVENT PREMATURE AGING OF THE SKIN
© Andriyanova A.Y., Burakova M.A., Waeinstein V.A.
St. Petersburg State Chemical-Pharmaceutical Academy, Saint-Petersburg, Russia
Ginkgo biloba leaves (GBL) were used as the object of research. GBL are official medicinal plant raw materials. The pharmacopoeia article "Ginkgo biloba leaves (Ginkgo biloba folia)" is included in the XIII edition of the state pharmacopoeia.
The aim of the study was to develop the composition and technology of cosmetic products with GBL extract.
For the more complete extraction of the natural complex of biologically active substances, extraction of GBL was carried out using a system of immiscible solvents with different polarity. A 70% solution of ethyl alcohol, 70% solution of propylene glycol and as the lipophilic phase - soybean oil was used. The ratio of raw material - extractant was 1:10, the ratio of polar and nonpolar phases was 1: 1.
The content of flavonoids in the polar phase recalculated for rutin was 0.36 ± 0.01%, and the content of chlorophylls in the non-polar phase was 6.38 ± 0.29 mg %.
Based on the extracts, a daytime moisturizing emulsion cream and a nighttime nourishing cream were developed.
As the day cream, the extract of the polar phase of GBL was used as the biologically active composition, in the night cream the extract of the nonpolar phase was used as the biologically active component.
In the day cream, soybean and castor oils were used as components of the oil phase. As the emulsifiers for the day cream - lanolin, MHD, wax emulsion, stearic acid, Cremophor RH-40 in a ratio of 1.5: 2: 1.5: 1: 1 was used. As a moisturizing agent, propylene glycol was added to the cream.
Soybean oil was used as the component of the oil phase in the night cream. As emulsifiers - lanolin, MHD, higher fatty alcohols, wax emulsion, beeswax and Cremophor RH-40 in a ratio of 2: 3: 1: 3: 1.5: 2 were used. As the emollient, dimethicone was used.
Standardization of the obtained creams was carried out according to the following quality indicators: appearance, color, odor, pH value of the 10% aqueous solution, viscosity and colloidal stability.
STUDIES ON QUALITY CONTROL OF LEONURIHERBA USING AN HPTLC ASSAY METHOD
© Karin Ardjomand-Woelkart, Lisa Derler, Rudolf Bauer
Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Department of Pharmacognosy, University of Graz; Universitaetsplatz 4, 8010 Graz, Austria
The aerial parts of Leonurus japonicus (Yimucao) have been traditionally used in Chinese Medicine (TCM) for many years. A monograph for the European Pharmacopoeia (PhEur) is currently developed. Since determinations of stachydrine and leonurine did not give satisfactory results, a photometric assay of flavonoids has been considered by the German Pharmacopoeia (DAB). For the monograph of PhEur, alternative approaches using semipreparative High-Performance-Thin-Layer-Chromatography (HPTLC) have been suggested to replace the classical assay.
A HPTLC method should be elaboratedfor a qualitative as well as for a semiquantitative analysis of the flavonoids of Yimucao. For suggesting appropriate limit values of the major flavonoids, a variety of European and Chinese Leonurus japonicus samples should be analysed.
Methanolic extracts of the powdered herbal drugs of 13 samples of Leonurus japonicas cultivated in Europe, and 20 samples from China, were applied on HPTLC
plates and compared with reference solutions of rutin, hyperoside and isoquercitrin. The content of these flavonoids was also determined by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC).
European samples contained more flavonoids than the plant material from China. Most samples from Europe passed the limit of DAB (0.3 %), while the samples from China contained only ca. 0.08 %. Results of photometric analysis according to DAB and HPLC determination of rutin, hyperoside, isoquercitrinand quercetin-desoxyhexose-hexoside gave quite similar results. However, it turned out, that hyperoside and isoquercitrin and rutin and quercetin-desoxyhexose-hexoside are critical pairs, and not easy to separate by HPLC and HPTLC.
Semiquantitative HPTLC may be a suitable method for replacing the classical photometric analysis of flavonoids. However, linearity, reproducibility and robustness still need to be tested.
Obzory po kliniceskoj farmacologii i lekarstvennoj terapii [Reviews of clinical pharmacology and drug therapy] vol. 15/2017/suppLement 1
